2013 Chevy Equinox, 2.4L, 7,611mi, Mobil-1 0w40

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Almost all highway miles. M1 0w40. No Make Up Oil. Changed when OLM reached 0%.
The previous three UOA's were Mobil-1 5w-30.

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Looks like iron is finally starting to trend down. This engine really appears to beat up the oil given the reduction in TBN on such a relatively short run.

You obviously have the revised OLM programming eh?
 
2.4 TBN is pretty good for that mileage, obviously because the Mobil 1 0W40 in made for it. You really make me want to run it in my cars but I'm still flushing contamination out so I have to stick to short runs. Maybe in the future.

I think an even 10k will be the sweet spot.
 
Def hard on oil. I put M1 5w30 back in when I changed this...
I asked about the reprogrammed OLM while at the dealer. The service advisor said it does not get the reprogram that reduces the OLM mileage.... He said mine should max out at 7,500 miles. Which it does +/-
 
i guess this the definition of a disposable engine. what a shame.
 
1maniac,

Why did you put the M1 5W-30 back in? The 0W-40 had a mid 10cst viscosity, compared to sub-8 cst on the thinner oil.

I thought that's why you went heavier, to compensate for the fuel dilution, which these 2.4l DI motors are known for. NO oil will stop that, it's just the heavier (13.5cst) starting viscosity of M1 0W-40 gives you more leeway before things get too thin.

And it was working, iron was trending down. Don't be surprised that it goes back up, with the sub-8 cst M1 that you will encounter at the next oil change. It's either that, or you change the oil out early at say, 40% OLM, before it thins as drastically.

Gary
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
i guess this the definition of a disposable engine. what a shame.



What am I missing?
How so?
Please explain
 
Wow! Viscosity starts out at ~13.5, and ends up at 10.6. Lost 20% of its viscosity, and sheared out of grade. There is not enough fuel dilution to account for that. Maybe the balance shafts are beating up the oil? But anyway, the oil ended up as a nice 30-weight, which is what the engine calls for. It sheared the 30-weights down to 20, and that's not so good.
 
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I would continue to use the M1 0w40 or try German Castrol 0w30. Both have a higher HTHS than Mobil 1 5w30 and should work well in this tough application.


While iron is up there it's no where near condemnation and bearing materials are very low. I think these engines will be fine if owners take good care of them like this.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I think these engines will be fine if owners take good care of them like this.

Which is where the problem lies for 90% of the 2.4's on the road
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
i guess this the definition of a disposable engine. what a shame.



What am I missing?
How so?
Please explain


Good luck getting an explanation from a troll.
 
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I think these engines will be fine if owners take good care of them like this.

Which is where the problem lies for 90% of the 2.4's on the road
smile.gif



Exactly. They need to spec this engine for a 0w40...no, actually most DI now a days use 0w20, the problem is not the oil, its the engineering. The majority of owners will just take there car to shops/quicky lube places and 5w30 will be used per the MM change interval and issues will crop up as the miles add up.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
i guess this the definition of a disposable engine. what a shame.



What am I missing?
How so?
Please explain


Good luck getting an explanation from a troll.


Hehehe.
I suppose I might be asking too much,an actual explanation as to why this engine is disposable.

As far as direct injection I feel its too early to just lump them all into one pile. Once they start getting into higher mileages we'll see whether running in a constant state of fuel dilution is actually harming them.
If as the miles rack up we begin to see engines worn out what most of us consider premature(under 300k) it might be prudent to run a euro type oil in them since once fuel dilution is factored in the oil will be closer to ideal viscosity anyways.

Time will tell I suppose.
 
M1 and your motor are an oil shearing machine! It torn both oil weights down a grade. I think its funny that my 5.3l(easy on oil) and Amsoil SS 5w-30 stays thicker than the M1 0w-40, my OCI 14k, yours 7k. That being said I still plan to move back to M1 due to price. Good idea to get UOA in these new tech motors. I can't believe how long some factory OCI's are now when the motors are so hard on oil. Do the boutique/GC oils shear down in this motor as well?
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Wow! Viscosity starts out at ~13.5, and ends up at 10.6. Lost 20% of its viscosity, and sheared out of grade. There is not enough fuel dilution to account for that. Maybe the balance shafts are beating up the oil? But anyway, the oil ended up as a nice 30-weight, which is what the engine calls for. It sheared the 30-weights down to 20, and that's not so good.


EXACTLY.

I wouldn't go too long on this fill. Then go back to M1 0w-40, or, try Rotella T6 5w-40 or a Amsoil HDEO or HDD, etc. Wow.

Pablo can hook you up.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Tucson Five-O
Why did you put the M1 5W-30 back in? The 0W-40 had a mid 10cst viscosity, compared to sub-8 cst on the thinner oil.


The OP didn't say how he collected the oil sample, but I would assume that it'd be during an oil change. And at the time of the oil change, he wouldn't yet have known how the 0W-40 performed. I agree with most of the comments; the 0W-40 seems to have done the best in this engine, and I'd probably continue to use it. Another idea might be the Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP available at Pep Boys. It's not dexos1 certified (though neither is 0W-40). It appears, at least on paper, to be a much stouter oil than Mobil 1's regular 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: Turk
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Wow! Viscosity starts out at ~13.5, and ends up at 10.6. Lost 20% of its viscosity, and sheared out of grade. There is not enough fuel dilution to account for that. Maybe the balance shafts are beating up the oil? But anyway, the oil ended up as a nice 30-weight, which is what the engine calls for. It sheared the 30-weights down to 20, and that's not so good.


EXACTLY.

I wouldn't go too long on this fill. Then go back to M1 0w-40, or, try Rotella T6 5w-40 or a Amsoil HDEO or HDD, etc. Wow.

Pablo can hook you up.
thumbsup2.gif




AMSoil HDD is a stout 30, is very shear resistant, and may stay in grade. It's not dexos certified, though.

GC is also a heavy 30, but is not as shear resistant as HDD. But it starts out thick enough that maybe it will stay a 30. It's also not dexos certified.

Maybe a dexos-certified 10w30 that starts out at the high end of the 30 range?
EDIT: Never mind that. There are no dexos-approved 10w30's.
 
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I filled it back up with m1 5w30 only because I have a stash of it. Im planning on running this out to 5k then either back to the m1 0w40 or EP 5w30. Im not sure using a Dexos oil really benefits me here. I do like the Amsoil HDD idea also for this machine..
 
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