Coolant for an old iron V8 with an alum radiator?

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In this post (Gelatinous Chunks) I got the low-down on cleaning out my old '71 Buick's cooling system, and was planning on using good old Conventional Green coolant once I get it all back together. Cast iron block and heads, Aluminum intake manifold and radiator.

Then I got to wondering.... is there a better option? This car won't be driven daily, whatever coolant I use will age-out before it wears-out due to mileage.

FWIS, this is the new water pump I'll be using on the left, it has a "modern" design enclosed-face impeller instead of the old open-faced impeller on the right.

Waterpumpscompared.jpg
 
I know that conventional green is OK! All of my buddies with old or new(crate motors) cast iron V8's and aluminum heads, intakes & radiators all use old style conventional(GREEN) and have for years. Many years infact!

These guys may change the coolant every 3-5 years and replace with the same in their old '60s Chevell's, Camaro's, Chargers/Cuda's, Firebirds, Corvette's, Mustang's Cobra's.

Now, is there a better option? Well, IDK!

* All makes/all models(AMAM/any color) maybe?
* G0-5, ZEREX Asian, PEAK Global Life Time?
 
I've got G-05 in my Jeep, it's iron block and heads, alum rad, alum heater core (original was copper/brass). Seems to work fine, no indications of anything corroding.
 
Originally Posted By: 2NABOT
In this post (Gelatinous Chunks) I got the low-down on cleaning out my old '71 Buick's cooling system, and was planning on using good old Conventional Green coolant once I get it all back together.

There really is not much if any Conventional Green left out there.

Consider the Zerex line-up. "Zerex Original Green Antifreeze" is actually a low silicate ethylene glycol coolant, unlike the old Conventional Green which was chock full of silicate, with a service life of five years or 100,000 miles, unlike the old Conventional Green which was good for a couple of years.

Personally I use their G-05 Coolant across the board. It is a low silicate HOAT used in many Ford, Chrysler, and Mercedes models that is good for up to 5 years-150,000 miles, and is very compatible with all metals.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
JD Coolguard or Coolguard II. Check the comparison, it is also safe for gaskets.

http://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_US/part...omparisons.page

Coolguard appears to be substantially G-05, and Coolguard II to be G-48.

G-48 and G-05 are compatible with each other, the primary difference being G-48 has deleted the nitrite and substituted three organic chemicals.

This was done to meet European environmental requirements and G-48 replaced G-05 in vehicles like Mercedes, BMW, and Volvo.
 
Originally Posted By: Wilhelm_D
Originally Posted By: Trav
JD Coolguard or Coolguard II. Check the comparison, it is also safe for gaskets.

http://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_US/part...omparisons.page

Coolguard appears to be substantially G-05, and Coolguard II to be G-48.

G-48 and G-05 are compatible with each other, the primary difference being G-48 has deleted the nitrite and substituted three organic chemicals.

This was done to meet European environmental requirements and G-48 replaced G-05 in vehicles like Mercedes, BMW, and Volvo.








the formula for G-48 has 2-ethy-S ..for those that may be concerned..@ https://www.motoworlduk.co.uk/acatalog/Glysantin G 48-24 MSDS.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: Petersubaru
the formula for G-48 has 2-ethy-S ..for those that may be concerned

BASF currently makes three "families" of coolants:

1 - Hybrid engine coolants containing silicates

These contain a mixture of inorganic and organic corrosion inhibitors. Mercedes and BMW use these as factory fill.

Glysantin G48

Glysantin G05

G-05 is the safer of the two for a retrofit to a vehicle originally using something else.


2 - OAT engine coolants with no silicates

These contain organic salts as corrosion inhibitors. GM, Ford and PSA use this technology. Asian vehicles use a version of this technology, but BASF does not make an Asian formula.

Glysantin G30

Glysantin G33

Glysantin G34


3 -OAT engine coolants with silicates

These contain organic salts as corrosion inhibitors as well as a small dose of silicate. Volkswagen Group use this type of engine coolant.


Glysantin G40


BASF OEM coolant approvals
 
Originally Posted By: JD
Regarding DEX-COOL, you are correct in that it is an OAT - type coolant using 2-Ethyl-Hexanoic Acid (2-EHA) as the OAT in its formulation. There was much controversy about ten or so years ago regarding seal hardening and cracking caused by 2-EHA. Cummins Engine Company and Texaco Chemical, now owned by Chevron, were two that particularly had issues with each other, but reached some sort of accommodation on the issue. You may want to do some Internet searches on the matter. For our part, we do not use 2-EHA in or formulation of either the former Cool-Gard or the current Cool-Gard II. The OAT used in Cool-Gard and now in Cool-Gard II, along with the two additional OAT's in Cool-Gard II, are unique and proprietary to Deere, and are not used by anyone else. That makes Cool-Gard II a truly unique and one-of-a-kind formulation."


Originally Posted By: JD
ohn Deere Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are NOT G-05. They are both Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) coolants as G-05 is, but Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are not G-05. G-05 is not formulated to protect against cylinder liner cavitation erosion and pitting, and does not pass the ASTM D7583 John Deere Cylinder Liner Cavitation Erosion Test.


From this thread...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1763599/1
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
quoting "John Deere Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are NOT G-05. They are both Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) coolants as G-05 is, but Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are not G-05. G-05 is not formulated to protect against cylinder liner cavitation erosion and pitting, and does not pass the ASTM D7583 John Deere Cylinder Liner Cavitation Erosion Test.

The two John Deere coolants are G-05 and G-48 respectively.

G-05 contains nitrite specifically to prevent cavitation erosion in diesels, while G-48 accomplishes the same thing with additional organic acids.

The only coolants that I am aware of that are certified to the ASTM D7583 "Standard Test Method for John Deere Coolant Cavitation Test" are John Deere's because there is simply no call for spending the money. Fleet owners already know what works and what is equivalent.
 
The explanation that was given to me regarding CoolGardII;
Base chemistry is the same between GO-5 & CoolGard II, but CoolGardII is on steroids.

They are both formulated by BASF, and obviously the reason for the extended service interval for CoolGard II is a different additive package. CoolGard II has a 6,000 hrs./6 year service life in heavy duty application, whereas GO-5 was 100,000 mi./5 year in light duty application. Both specs listed were for OEM engines I own.

I use CoolGard II across my fleet, without hesitation, as it was formulated for this use, old and new engines with many different metal types in radiators and engines. My use goes from a '48 flathead Ford, two JD marine diesels, to several late model trucks.
 
Originally Posted By: Wilhelm_D
Originally Posted By: Trav
quoting "John Deere Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are NOT G-05. They are both Hybrid Organic Additive Technology (HOAT) coolants as G-05 is, but Cool-Gard and Cool-Gard II are not G-05. G-05 is not formulated to protect against cylinder liner cavitation erosion and pitting, and does not pass the ASTM D7583 John Deere Cylinder Liner Cavitation Erosion Test.

The two John Deere coolants are G-05 and G-48 respectively.

G-05 contains nitrite specifically to prevent cavitation erosion in diesels, while G-48 accomplishes the same thing with additional organic acids.

The only coolants that I am aware of that are certified to the ASTM D7583 "Standard Test Method for John Deere Coolant Cavitation Test" are John Deere's because there is simply no call for spending the money. Fleet owners already know what works and what is equivalent


John Deere says it isn't and their Coolguard II contains no 2eha. Who are we supposed to believe the people who spec the product or a forum poster on the internet?
Personally if Deere says it isn't thats good enough for me.

Both products are made by Northland not BASF. Where from this are you drawing your conclusions.

COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
wt. Percent
CAS Registry #
Monoethylene Glycol > 45 000107-21-1
Diethylene Glycol 3 max 000111-46-6
Proprietary Inhibitors 1-5 Mixture
Water 50 max 007732-18-5

http://www.greenpartstore.com/assets/images/msds/2013/ty26575_msds.pdf
 
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I called them to discuss this for use in my Jeep and was told it contained no 2eha. They wouldn't elaborate any further but assured me it had no 2eha.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
John Deere says it isn't and their Coolguard II contains no 2eha.

John Deere, so far as I can find, doesn't say it isn't. They correctly state that BASF does not manufacture Coolguard.

I have no idea why the fact that Coolguard II contains no 2eha is relevant, do you? There are a number of organic acids that can be substituted for 2eha to obtain equivalent performance.

Perhaps you would feel more comfortable with the statement "Coolguard and G-05 are equivalent and Coolguard II and G-48 are equivalent".
 
No i wouldn't feel comfortable with that statement and 2eha could be a concern where unknown plastics and gasket materials are used.

Read the reply to the poster in the other thread from JD about 2eha and the link to G48 stating it does contain 2eha.
One does the other doesn't does no equal equivalent to me. You obviously don't have a clue what Coolgurd I or II is or isn't, you are guessing then trying to argue over it and it shows.
 
Maybe a stupid question but is the Deere coolant compatible with old fashion green coolant? I may do a drain and fill and not a full flush. Thanks guys.
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Maybe a stupid question but is the Deere coolant compatible with old fashion green coolant? I may do a drain and fill and not a full flush. Thanks guys.


According to Deere no problem at all. Just do a complete flush.
 
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