How do I clean the piston oil rings?

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Reno, NV
168k 1997 honda civic dx:

I just replaced my valve seals and I am still consuming lots of oil. Is there anything I can place through the spark plug holes so that it dissolves the carbon? I have a gallon of LC20, I wonder if I can pour some in and let it sit on the rings. Maybe it's too thick.
 
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Try something with lubrication such as LCD's LC20, 4-6 ounces in each cylinder.

Let it soak overnight and then turn crankshaft by hand.

Let it soak overnight again and repeat next day.

Before firing up, inspect each hole to make sure all liquid has run past the rings. If not suck it out.
 
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Leave the plugs out for the entire operation.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Leave the plugs out for the entire operation.
smile.gif



Absolutely and thanks for reminding me of that crucial step.
thumbsup2.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
I just replaced my valve seals and I am still consuming lots of oil.

Are you sure that it was done right? It's not difficult to damage or break these very delicate seals during installation. Also, if they aren't seated properly, they will pop out and then you have no seals.

I had posted this a while ago:

Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
I just replaced my valve seals and I am still consuming lots of oil.

Are you sure that it was done right? It's not difficult to damage or break these very delicate seals during installation. Also, if they aren't seated properly, they will pop out and then you have no seals.

I had posted this a while ago:

Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement


I'm confident I did it right, just the way you described in your DIY, but I will check again soon, just to make sure they haven't come loose. Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Try something with lubrication such as LCD's LC20, 4-6 ounces in each cylinder.

Let it soak overnight and then turn crankshaft by hand.

Let it soak overnight again and repeat next day.

Before firing up, inspect each hole to make sure all liquid has run past the rings. If not suck it out.


I'm going to try that!
 
I'm putting in like 2 quarts every 3000 miles. No external leaks. Could a headgasket leak oil into one of the cylinders? I have no coolant leaks.
 
I had no smoke, no drips, just lots of consumption on the highway... Did B-12 chemtool flush after other options didnt help. Added restore after that on a whim because lots of reports indicated it quiets lifter ticks. Both the tick and the consumption are gone!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I had no smoke, no drips, just lots of consumption on the highway... Did B-12 chemtool flush after other options didnt help. Added restore after that on a whim because lots of reports indicated it quiets lifter ticks. Both the tick and the consumption are gone!


Be careful speaking positively about Restore, it could get you in trouble around here. LOL
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I had no smoke, no drips, just lots of consumption on the highway... Did B-12 chemtool flush after other options didnt help. Added restore after that on a whim because lots of reports indicated it quiets lifter ticks. Both the tick and the consumption are gone!


Be careful speaking positively about Restore, it could get you in trouble around here. LOL


Yeah but for how long are they gone? Until you stop using the engine restore? Was it the b12 flush that cured it or the engine restore?
 
Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I had no smoke, no drips, just lots of consumption on the highway... Did B-12 chemtool flush after other options didnt help. Added restore after that on a whim because lots of reports indicated it quiets lifter ticks. Both the tick and the consumption are gone!


Be careful speaking positively about Restore, it could get you in trouble around here. LOL


Yeah but for how long are they gone? Until you stop using the engine restore? Was it the b12 flush that cured it or the engine restore?


I cant say for sure. I wasnt intending to do a scientific study, just some last-ditch efforts after trying a few other things. Next step would be to live with it or to shell out money.

In all practicality, given that one item is like $3 (for a full bottle that you only use half of), and the other is maybe $10, I really dont care all that much, because application of both is so darn cheap. When I change out my oil and dont put anything in, then if/when I see changes, it may be telling...
 
Once again,

No common solvent dissolves hard carbon. Not Marvel Mystery Oil, not Berrymans, Not Carb Clean, not Seafoam, nothing.

Only chemicals that contain methylene chloride or other caustics will soften or dissolve hard carbon. Such as paint stripper, oven cleaner, paint gun cleaner and so on. Ever wonder why blocks and heads are cleaned with a "hot tank" caustic process? Placing them in a typical parts washer won't remove the carbon, regardless of how long you let them sit.


I have had success with higher viscosity synthetics in cars that consume too much oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Once again,

No common solvent dissolves hard carbon. Not Marvel Mystery Oil, not Berrymans, Not Carb Clean, not Seafoam, nothing.

Only chemicals that contain methylene chloride or other caustics will soften or dissolve hard carbon. Such as paint stripper, oven cleaner, paint gun cleaner and so on. Ever wonder why blocks and heads are cleaned with a "hot tank" caustic process? Placing them in a typical parts washer won't remove the carbon, regardless of how long you let them sit.


I have had success with higher viscosity synthetics in cars that consume too much oil.


Can I put any of those through the spark plug holes before an oil change and let it soak, or can I mess something up?
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet


No common solvent dissolves hard carbon. Not Marvel Mystery Oil, not Berrymans, Not Carb Clean, not Seafoam, nothing.



Yes, but the ring groove deposits are not 100% hard carbon, at least not initially.

There are posts about rerings jobs in Saturns or Corollas after using solvents that showed clean but worn out rings.

Cleaning is doable, but has to be done before the rings are worn out or lose their tension.
 
Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
I just replaced my valve seals and I am still consuming lots of oil.

Are you sure that it was done right? It's not difficult to damage or break these very delicate seals during installation. Also, if they aren't seated properly, they will pop out and then you have no seals.

I had posted this a while ago:

Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement

I'm confident I did it right, just the way you described in your DIY, but I will check again soon, just to make sure they haven't come loose. Thanks.

Did you hear the "click" seating sound for all of them when you pushed them down?
 
Originally Posted By: Cleft_Asunder
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Once again,

No common solvent dissolves hard carbon. Not Marvel Mystery Oil, not Berrymans, Not Carb Clean, not Seafoam, nothing.

Only chemicals that contain methylene chloride or other caustics will soften or dissolve hard carbon. Such as paint stripper, oven cleaner, paint gun cleaner and so on. Ever wonder why blocks and heads are cleaned with a "hot tank" caustic process? Placing them in a typical parts washer won't remove the carbon, regardless of how long you let them sit.


I have had success with higher viscosity synthetics in cars that consume too much oil.


Can I put any of those through the spark plug holes before an oil change and let it soak, or can I mess something up?


I think what you are asking is if you can use very harsh, often caustic chemicals internally in your engine. Absolutely not! While the piston, valves and rings won't likely be affected by them, seals, gaskets, plastics, composites and rubber parts will be destroyed by them. Yes, I've used EZ-OFF engine cleaner to clean intake manifold ports and intake valves. But, only with the valve closed, done carefully-one at a time, and the metal intake manifold sitting in the driveway
smile.gif


Today, I'd never do such a thing. I prefer to use synthetic oil to prevent or reduce the risk of carbon buildup on rings and valves. My suggestion stands: Try a higher viscosity, quality synthetic oil. Possibly high mileage Mobil 1, 10W-40. It's use will help clean and keep clean engine internals.
 
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