Remove Pinion Yoke Nut

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SwampSurvivor

SwampSurvivor

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I need to get a new pinion yoke for my rear axle. See: here

I wasn't able to drill it out, so I brought it to a mechanic and he can't drill it out.

Only solution is a new pinion yoke.

I called all of the local stores and quickest I could get one is a few weeks out and a lot of $$ as it's a factory direct part.

Any tips for removing one of these from a junkyard Jeep?
 
Honest truth: Buy and swap the whole dang rear axle from a junkyard. Brake drum to brake drum. Its less hassle by an order of magnitude.

Tearing into a rear end to change out the pinion yoke means re-setting the backlash (crush sleeve or washers, depending on design.) That means concocting a big honkin' way to hold the pinion yoke while you apply big honkin' torque to the pinion nut. And its almost impossible to do without removing the axle from the vehicle anyway. It just isn't worth the hassle.
 
If I lived outside of the rust belt, that may be a better solution. A junkyard axle would need new brake lines and wheel cylinders (they rust too).

Plus, not having a shop, it's not possible for me to do it on my own. Mechanic will charge very little to properly install the pinon yoke.

I'm really surprised that NO ONE has pinon yokes for these things.
 
A cordless impact with a strong battery should be all you need to remove the pinion nut. Might as well have the shop pop a new pinion seal in it while it's apart. But don't be surprised if the pinion bearings start howling 15k miles later. Been there, done that.
12.gif
 
Ah, if you're contracting it out, then its a different matter... except for the fact that the same rust monster may make it completely impossible to pull a yoke off in the junkyard, too. Not having a shop is the BEST argument for swapping the whole axle, though. It requires a shop to change a yoke.

Let me poke my old set of XJ links here and see if I can find a new one some other places...

How about Quadratec:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52425_10.htm

Same part at 4Wheel Parts:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Di..._pn=CRO52068839

Looks like Crown is about the only brand going, just have to find a vendor that can deliver fasteest
 
If your mechanic won't charge much to change them if you supply one, then all you gotta do is get the old one off. But then you knew that. To get it off you need something to hold it from turning. A LARGE pipe wrench works if it has the body or something to jam it from turning. Then a socket to fit the nut, and a breaker bar with probably a pipe to extend the handle. Then PUSH OR PULL as the case will be till it comes loose, remove the nut, and use a hammer to tap the yolk off the pinion shaft. Always worked for me anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
A cordless impact with a strong battery should be all you need to remove the pinion nut. Might as well have the shop pop a new pinion seal in it while it's apart. But don't be surprised if the pinion bearings start howling 15k miles later. Been there, done that.
12.gif



No power tools of any sort allowed in junkyards. Pinion bearing already howls in rear axle on decel. Just has to hold out for another year until I can have it regeared.

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Ah, if you're contracting it out, then its a different matter... except for the fact that the same rust monster may make it completely impossible to pull a yoke off in the junkyard, too. Not having a shop is the BEST argument for swapping the whole axle, though. It requires a shop to change a yoke.

Let me poke my old set of XJ links here and see if I can find a new one some other places...

How about Quadratec:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52425_10.htm

Same part at 4Wheel Parts:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Di..._pn=CRO52068839

Looks like Crown is about the only brand going, just have to find a vendor that can deliver fasteest


If I can't pull by end of week, I'm going to order new and wait a few weeks.


Originally Posted By: old1
If your mechanic won't charge much to change them if you supply one, then all you gotta do is get the old one off. But then you knew that. To get it off you need something to hold it from turning. A LARGE pipe wrench works if it has the body or something to jam it from turning. Then a socket to fit the nut, and a breaker bar with probably a pipe to extend the handle. Then PUSH OR PULL as the case will be till it comes loose, remove the nut, and use a hammer to tap the yolk off the pinion shaft. Always worked for me anyway.


He was just going to give me a yoke but didn't have any hanging out in the shop. All were for Dana 35 apparently.

I have a 3/4'' breaker bar with 36'' pipe.
 
Some times you can get lucky and reinstall the new yoke without replacing the crush sleeve. But 440 is correct in that its best to tear it all apart and start fresh with a new crush sleeve. As for getting one off at picapart. A breaker bar and pipe and have someone step on the parking brake or twist up the cables to lock the shoes to the drum.
 
pull-a-part lets you use cordless tools I thought?

they have a 95 and 97 in canton.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Cordless are allowed. But for the price of a good cordless impact , I can buy a new yoke.


A couple of new yokes, probably. A yoke is under $50, not counting tax...
 
I've replaced pinion seals before, and one pinion flange, I've never had to replace any crush sleeves or re-measure backlash. I just mark the nut and pinion shaft with a sharpie pen than measure and count the number of threads exposed on the pinion shaft. Mark the socket you use with a sharpie in the same spot as the nut, than mark a reference point on the old pinion yoke. When you loosen the nut count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut from the reference point on the old yoke. Use a puller to remove the yoke (or a hammer). install in the reverse order and make sure you replace that pinion seal. Use a new pinion yoke too, anything from a junkyard isn't worth your time.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Cordless are allowed. But for the price of a good cordless impact , I can buy a new yoke.


A couple of new yokes, probably. A yoke is under $50, not counting tax...


Junkyard yoke is $7. No one sells them locally except the dealer, which is $120. I can find them online from Quadratec and such for $60+shipping.

Dana 35- everywhere. Chrysler 8.25'' ... nope
 
Originally Posted By: CurtisB
I've replaced pinion seals before, and one pinion flange, I've never had to replace any crush sleeves or re-measure backlash. I just mark the nut and pinion shaft with a sharpie pen than measure and count the number of threads exposed on the pinion shaft. Mark the socket you use with a sharpie in the same spot as the nut, than mark a reference point on the old pinion yoke. When you loosen the nut count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut from the reference point on the old yoke. Use a puller to remove the yoke (or a hammer). install in the reverse order and make sure you replace that pinion seal. Use a new pinion yoke too, anything from a junkyard isn't worth your time.


I need the Jeep this weekend. Can't wait on a new one from the Internet at the moment. If I can't get a yoke, I'll be doing some hauling with my front drive Cherokee!
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88

I need the Jeep this weekend. Can't wait on a new one from the Internet at the moment. If I can't get a yoke, I'll be doing some hauling with my front drive Cherokee!


A LOT of people have done that for a LOT of miles! Not recommended long-term, but since the '99-up T-cases have a seal upstream of the output yoke (IOW the yoke requires regular greasing
frown.gif
) its alwauys viable option to just remove the rear driveshaft, stick it in '4 hi' and go. You may or may not notices an uncomfortable amount of backlash when coasting due to the T-case chain. Just ignore it :)
 
I drove it to the mechanic's like that. I actually like it. FWD tracks much better on the highway. Whined a bit from 30-35 but that was it. Accelerating and turning at the same time, such as from a stoplight, is a no-no. U Joints bind bad.

Monday he installed the SYE for me.

Went today and bought a junkyard yoke. Used two donut spares (they are useful for something!!!!!!!) and a brake drum to hold the pipe wrench and backed off the nut. Didn't need the 3' pipe as it wouldn't fit.

Went *back* up to the mechanic after that and had the new yoke installed in under 5 minutes. Bolted up the CV driveshaft (front driveshaft) and it's great! No driveline vibrations at all!

My old slip yoke must have been worn as it used to bang into drive and reverse. No more!

Now I just need to bum a ride to the Jeep. The mechanic is 20 miles out of the city. Worth it, though.
 
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