Advantages of straight weight oil

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If we keep adding to this thread, we'll all go old school and run straight 30 in the summer, then switch to straight 10W in the winter. When was the last time anybody saw a straight W-grade on the shelf?
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
So the straight 30 did alright in your 5.4?

IMO, yes. No difference in starting or running. But I did not do a UOA, and my tow vehicles are just that, they tow. When they aren't hooked to the travel trailer, they sit. I drive about 3000 miles a year, from March to October, then it sets all winter. So I cannot tell you if the 30 weight would have worked at or below freezing. But 40 and above, no change in the truck's behavior.
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Originally Posted By: Red91
So the straight 30 did alright in your 5.4?

IMO, yes. No difference in starting or running. But I did not do a UOA, and my tow vehicles are just that, they tow. When they aren't hooked to the travel trailer, they sit. I drive about 3000 miles a year, from March to October, then it sets all winter. So I cannot tell you if the 30 weight would have worked at or below freezing. But 40 and above, no change in the truck's behavior.


That sounds like ideal conditions for using a straight grade.


And thanks for the links Shannow. You are certainly an asset to this forum and us less informed members.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
When was the last time anybody saw a straight W-grade on the shelf?

I don't even see any on my Imperial Oil sell sheets. Heck, they don't even sell a Mobil conventional 10w-40 or 20w-50 up here any longer, and all their monogrades are SAE 30 and SAE 40 HDEOs and two cycle diesel oils.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
Would anyone here actually try a fill of monograde in an application where it's tolerated? Just for kicks.


I'm considering trying a 30 grade in my charger,just for xxxx and giggles.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
Would anyone here actually try a fill of monograde in an application where it's tolerated? Just for kicks.


I imagine my tractor engine Jeep would thrive on it. Seriously considering it for fun but I have some timing problems. I'd only consider it during summer and for any kind of telling results it would be better for it to be a second run UOA to get a real look at how it did. If I was due for an OCI now it would work, but I'm not.
frown.gif


Another reason why I don't usually run synthetics, you just have to wait to darn long to try something new!
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
Would anyone here actually try a fill of monograde in an application where it's tolerated? Just for kicks.


I have posted the following twice:

I have:

1) Mixed 30 with 10-30 in varying amounts
2) Ran straight 30
3) Even ran straight 40 (Im in TX summer and oil was almost free)



Even the 40 did fine in my 97 Chevy pickup.

People are STRESSING over nothing, viscosity wise.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Red91
Would anyone here actually try a fill of monograde in an application where it's tolerated? Just for kicks.


I'm considering trying a 30 grade in my charger,just for xxxx and giggles.


I'm going to put 0W-16 when it comes out, in my corvette for the same reason.
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
What engine do you have in the charger?


5.7 litre hemi. With mds. I've already experimented with 40 grade oils in it and they slow down mds engagement by .025 of a second or so,so those folks who believe that you gotta run a 20 grade or the mds won't work take note that it's not true.

Surprisingly enough if you get on the throttle before the oil reaches 140f the ecu throws an oil too thick code.
I've got 5w-20 ultra in it right now. 8000 miles on the oil and I guess due to oxidative thickening it set a cel a few days ago when I got heavy into the pedal.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
If we keep adding to this thread, we'll all go old school and run straight 30 in the summer, then switch to straight 10W in the winter. When was the last time anybody saw a straight W-grade on the shelf?


I've seen a 20W...somewhere in the not too distant past, now I'm wracking my brain for where exactly I saw it...it stood out
 
Originally Posted By: Red91
So you think it would be alright in the summer on a monograde? I'm seriously very curious.


I do because I've done it before many years ago but I was very oil ignorant then and ran it into winter. Starts were pretty rough ha ha. I've been looking around and PYB HD30 is fairly available. So is Rotella. I also looked at the Castrol site and they say in regard to their HD 30 "for ambient temps over 40 degrees". So they seem to think HD30 is fine as long as it's 40 or above.

I am still 3-4k away from my next OCI, it will be summer then, I am torn between another fill of 10w40 PYB or a run of HD30 PYB. But I would rather have a prior run of PYB before I run the HD30 as a UOA would be more reflective of actual performance. But then I'd be getting into fall with HD30 which I don't really want to do. But a single run would not be worthless either.

Like you I am very intrigued by the higher HTHS and the stellar shear resistance.
 
In the summer heat at least, I wonder if it would be beneficial to buy PYB HD 30 weight to use as that 6th quart or as a top off oil.

Didnt AZ have some on clearance for $5 per 5 qt jug??
 
I'm looking at Delo SAE30 from my local NAPA. I'd be running it in a '91 GMC Sierra with a TBI 5.7. Probably all seasons due to the fact that it's a second vehicle/beater, and it will probably not even see 500 miles a year any longer. I'm sticking with 5W-30 in the Dakota.
 
When a boating store went out of business several years ago, they had a huge clearance on marine 15W40 and 40 oils (under a buck per qt). They look like repackaged HDEO. Not being sure which is better for my boat, I typically blend them and this comes closer to the 25W40 Mercruiser specifies for the engine, LOL.

However, one time I used straight 40 only and it was a pain to drain the cold oil during late fall. The oil was ridiculously thick in ambient temps.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
In the summer heat at least, I wonder if it would be beneficial to buy PYB HD 30 weight to use as that 6th quart or as a top off oil.

Didnt AZ have some on clearance for $5 per 5 qt jug??


PYB SAE30 used to be available down here, and had become a significant part of my normal purchasing, using it in my BJ42, and J-Car wagon (before I used 25W-70 in it one winter to demonstrate that it wouldn't blow it up). The PYB had up to date "S" specs.

Alas, the only generally SAE30s that are typically available are Delvac 1330, which I tend not to use (would be all over 1630), and various lawnmower oils, which I resorted to with my E30, running a fill of Caltex mower oil (Delo 500 at the time).

Note, that in every case, the 30 was thinner at 100C than the recommended for my vehicle in the manual...but was relying on hths, not KV100.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow



Alas, the only generally SAE30s that are typically available are Delvac 1330, which I tend not to use (would be all over 1630), and various lawnmower oils,


RX Mono 30 should be easy enough to get. It's sold in 5L jugs
 
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