slight tick at startup

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JHZR2

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Hi,

I have a 98 chevy S-10 ZR2 with the HO 4.3L V6.

The filter is mounted (stock) semi-remotely, near a flap in one of the skid plates. It is mounted on its side.

Especially in colder weather, after sitting for many days, or a week +, I get a slight tapping sound at startup. It only happens for maybe 15-20 seconds, it will speed up if I press the throttle a bit, but if I apply a load, i.e. put it in reverse, and move maybe 10 feet, it is gone.

I think it has something to do with the lifters not filling up quick enough or something similar.

It happened all the time when I had a fram on (only one change ever, I promise, and only because it was the only filter they had in stock), and usually I use an AC ultraguard gold, on which it happens less, but still occurs.

I run Castrol GTX start-up 5w-30, and am very happy with the 'start-up' behavior of the truck, and quickness to crank... my only peeve is this occasional tapping.

The ultraguard gold has a silicon ADBV, I believe, which I thought was the thing to have.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to a PF-52 replacement that may have solved such a problem for you?

Thanks!

JMH
 
Time to run an engine flush treatment through your engine.

I did on my Blazer and it doesn't click at all at startup.

Here is what you do.

Buy a bottle of engine flush.
Buy 3 bottles of oil and the normal amount of your normal oil you use.
Buy two filters, one really cheap one and one good one.

Drop your old oil and filter and drain the engine.

Install the cheap filter and the 3 bottles of oil and the engine flush.

Idle the engine for 40 minutes. IDLE ONLY!!!!!

This will clean the oil system of any restrictions and sludge and will put them into suspension and the sluge will quickly plug up the oil filter.

Drop the oil and filter again. Note how dirty the oil is.

Let it drain very well so nothing is left. Pour a bit of oil down the fill tube and watch it come out the oil pan. This way you have got all the dirty oil out. You only need a bit for this.

Fill up with your usual 5w30 oil and a good non fram oil filter and see if the ticking is gone.

Go with the standard 5w30 from Castrol. The start up is not really any different and is more expensive.
 
I have a 95 s10 blazer with same engine (reman'ed but the same 4.3 motor), and it has a startup lifter tick every now and then as well. I also have a 99 s10 ZR2 with about 83k on it, no ticking as of now anyway.
I am a little leary of doing engine flushes just because you never know if some chunk-o-something may actually come loose instead of dissolving like it should in a more perfect world...not saying the idea doesn't have merit, just that the real world doesn't always cooperate with good theory...
however,
I do think that a couple of short interval oil changes is a good thing every now and then though. I would personally rather do a couple of 1k changes in a row, and then go back to a more normal schedule which for me is a 3k interval anyway. Main thing about a lifter tick is if it DOESN'T clear quickly.
If the filter draining out was the cause of the drainback then ALL the lifters would drain out, but in this case (our case
frown.gif
) it is just a particular problem child that doesn't seal perfectly and drains after an extended sit time...
I'd say your filters are not the problem- that filter is mounted pretty low and stays full of oil at shutdown. I normally use the ST filters or premium-plus purolators nothing fancy, just a good routine change.
Hope this helps...
smile.gif


side edit- the Fram was probably contibuting to low flow rate when engine was cold and you heard various similar/same noise just due to low flow rather than the lifter itself..I used frams once upon a time too (pre-BITOG) and also had the noise, but I don't use frams anymore...any other type filter behaves much better in my experience. I also used Castrol once upon a time, but now use Havoline/Chevron/Pennzoil due to better detergency, It's a personal preference of course but it seemed the Castrol stayed clean longer, which indicated to me it was NOT cleaning/suspending as well.
Rando

[ January 04, 2005, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: ZR2RANDO ]
 
I used auto-rx, for a different issue. Didnt change the tick. But Im not a fan of engine flushes, so I think Ill stay away from that route.

Thanks!

JMH
 
My wife's previous car, 4 cyl Grand Am, it would tick at start-up with any filter (even AC) except a Mobil 1 and K&N.
 
Guys,

quit pimpin the Auto RX crap.

Engine flush costs, $5, takes about 30 minutes and the engine is clean.

Who wants to wait 6000 miles for a clean engine.

There is nothing wrong with engine flushes when it is used properly and only idled.

Anyone else saying likewise is full of it because I have run two complete flushes through mine and it still runs awesome and clean as a whistle.

JHZR2,

I have your engine, I have run it no problem.

Why do you think it is such a bad thing?
 
Flushes are nothing but kerosene, and are hard on seals. They can also loosen large chunks of junk and send them through your engine.

Read the addative section for some more info from real experts.

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
Guys,

quit pimpin the Auto RX crap.

Engine flush costs, $5, takes about 30 minutes and the engine is clean.

Who wants to wait 6000 miles for a clean engine.

There is nothing wrong with engine flushes when it is used properly and only idled.

Anyone else saying likewise is full of it because I have run two complete flushes through mine and it still runs awesome and clean as a whistle.

JHZR2,

I have your engine, I have run it no problem.

Why do you think it is such a bad thing?


Blazer - I think your comments relating to Auto-RX are rather crude...

Since this is the filter forum, I suggest you debate this position with a new thread, over in the Additives & Cleaners forum.

Have a Good Day,
Mike
 
BlazerLT's comments are also uninformed regarding Auto-Rx.

Flushes CAN be safe, or the CAN be risky - depends on the condition of the engine.

Auto-Rx, on the other hand - well, I can't envision a scenario where the engine is rescuable where ARX won't be safe. It will also clean in places (like the ring packs) that a flush won't.

Besides - if you're only running THINNED OUT oil at idle engine speed/oil pressure, just how thorough do you think that cleaning CAN be?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Michael Polutta:
BlazerLT's comments are also uninformed regarding Auto-Rx.

Flushes CAN be safe, or the CAN be risky - depends on the condition of the engine.

Auto-Rx, on the other hand - well, I can't envision a scenario where the engine is rescuable where ARX won't be safe. It will also clean in places (like the ring packs) that a flush won't.

Besides - if you're only running THINNED OUT oil at idle engine speed/oil pressure, just how thorough do you think that cleaning CAN be?


No offense, but the wash rinse fluff phase of this stuff is just a marketing gimmick and I don't care what, it is not worth the money they are asking for it.

I am helping the person that has started this thread seeing I own his same engine and can help him with it.

If anyone has a problem with what I say, that is fine, I am not going to follow the sheep dumping money into these exotic oil cleaners that can take close to a year to do the job I can do with a new filter, a bottle of engine flush and 30-45 minutes worth of idling.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
No offense, but the wash rinse fluff phase of this stuff is just a marketing gimmick and I don't care what, it is not worth the money they are asking for it.

I am helping the person that has started this thread seeing I own his same engine and can help him with it.

If anyone has a problem with what I say, that is fine, I am not going to follow the sheep dumping money into these exotic oil cleaners that can take close to a year to do the job I can do with a new filter, a bottle of engine flush and 30-45 minutes worth of idling. [/QB]

I applaud you for wanting to help. But you make it hard to accept "no offense" when your statement earlier was "quit pimpin the Auto RX crap." Unless you have used it you have NO BASIS for your assessment. And if it takes you almost a year to go 3500 miles then that's a different issue!

When I speak of the benefits of ARX I am speaking from experience. And I have run flushes in the past. In fact, I used to run a flush in my Mazda 2 of every 3 oil changes. Guess what - it NEVER cleaned the rings. Only ARX has accomplished that. Further, ARX is cleaning the HLAs (startup noises that have diminished significantly) that these flushes never touched. Such cleaning apparently CANNOT be accomplished in 15-30 minutes, at least not in my car. Finally - I think this is due to the compression increase from freeing the rings - my MPG is up by 2. Again, something the flushes never accomplished.

Dude, you've taken the totally irrational stance that the large population that has USED and THEN praised ARX is lying. Willfully lying. Your position is ridiculous.
rolleyes.gif
 
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