forn n8 tractor
- Thread starter gwb
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How old is it?
The transmission specs and i quote "all mineral sae90 weight". Have been aroun a few. i love those old flatheads.
For filters you can't go wrong with motorcraft, wix, fleetguar, or baldwin. Just use a name brand and don't sweat it.
ken
i have a working runner i am looking at rite now.
tractor supply carrys the transmission fluid. I have two gallons in the barn.
For filters you can't go wrong with motorcraft, wix, fleetguar, or baldwin. Just use a name brand and don't sweat it.
ken
i have a working runner i am looking at rite now.
tractor supply carrys the transmission fluid. I have two gallons in the barn.
As long as I've been alive, our 8N has gotten 80-90 gear oil for the trans. The engine gets, well, whatever happens to be handy when it needs topped off. I think Dad used Super Tech 30 wt the last time it actually got a change. I actually don't know what the filter is but it isn't a spin-on. I think it's some kind of drop-in filter.
Yes they came with a canister filter.
my laast one had a spin-on conversion. i used fl-1a filter and whatever oil was laying around.
ken
my laast one had a spin-on conversion. i used fl-1a filter and whatever oil was laying around.
ken
Just got the new to me 8n home today. had it at my friends barn getting. some tlc. new plugs, cap, rotor, replica cloth plug wires, wix 51773 oil filter, maxlife nextgen 5w-20 in engine sump plus 1oz MMO/qt, tsc brand all mineral sae90 weight ford transmission/hydraulic oil in the back end.
It is converted to 12v. so i put the two 6v's(take offs from the fall 560diesel service) in series to make 12v. Tons of cranking amps, 15°F w/ low single digit wind chill, cranked right over.
ken
It is converted to 12v. so i put the two 6v's(take offs from the fall 560diesel service) in series to make 12v. Tons of cranking amps, 15°F w/ low single digit wind chill, cranked right over.
ken
I have 4 Ford N's, 2 are show tractors and 2 are working tractors.
I use Rotella 15W-40 in the engine, straight 30 weight in the air cleaner, and hydraulic fluid that meets Ford 134D spec in the transmission/hydraulics sump. If you don't use it in cold weather GL3 will work. Remember-the transmission/hydraulic fluid has to be a compromise fluid to work correctly, and the brass bushings are sensitive to some additive packages in gear or hydraulic oil.
The original Ford M4864 “Mild EP Gear Oil” would conform to the present-day API gear oil designation of GL3. It contains some extreme pressure additives (sulphur and phosphorus compounds) which make it a better lubricant for transmissions and for bevel-gear final drives where there is high-pressure sliding contact. However, it doesn't do as well in sub-zero temperatures and I prefer not to wait for extremely slow hydraulics to lift the back blade when I work. The 134D fluid is lighter, but if your lift cylinder or bypass valve leaks it will leak down faster when loaded on a hot summer day. The 134D spec will not cause any harm to the brass bushings in the N's transmission.
N's are noted for losing prime if lighter multi weight engine oils are used-if you choose to use a lighter oil go with a straight 20 weight or straight 30 weight. Otherwise I've never had nor heard of an issue with an N losing prime with 15W-40.
And I often start and use mine in sub zero weather, without a single starting issue with 15W-40 engine oil and the original 6 volt system.
I use Rotella 15W-40 in the engine, straight 30 weight in the air cleaner, and hydraulic fluid that meets Ford 134D spec in the transmission/hydraulics sump. If you don't use it in cold weather GL3 will work. Remember-the transmission/hydraulic fluid has to be a compromise fluid to work correctly, and the brass bushings are sensitive to some additive packages in gear or hydraulic oil.
The original Ford M4864 “Mild EP Gear Oil” would conform to the present-day API gear oil designation of GL3. It contains some extreme pressure additives (sulphur and phosphorus compounds) which make it a better lubricant for transmissions and for bevel-gear final drives where there is high-pressure sliding contact. However, it doesn't do as well in sub-zero temperatures and I prefer not to wait for extremely slow hydraulics to lift the back blade when I work. The 134D fluid is lighter, but if your lift cylinder or bypass valve leaks it will leak down faster when loaded on a hot summer day. The 134D spec will not cause any harm to the brass bushings in the N's transmission.
N's are noted for losing prime if lighter multi weight engine oils are used-if you choose to use a lighter oil go with a straight 20 weight or straight 30 weight. Otherwise I've never had nor heard of an issue with an N losing prime with 15W-40.
And I often start and use mine in sub zero weather, without a single starting issue with 15W-40 engine oil and the original 6 volt system.
I use 20W-50 for my 9N since it is a little tired and used in summer.I get 134D compatible hydraulic oil at TSG.Do not use modern 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil since the sulphur will eat away the "yellow" parts in the transmission. The N series tractors were ahead of their time. Just compare them to a Deere of that same era.It's like comparing fiber optics to a string and two tomato cans.
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I use 15w40 in the engine and 80w90 gear oil in the trans/hydraulics. I use the Supertech 80w90 from Walmart, comes in a gallon jug for around $10-12.
Be warned, the spin on adapters put the filter sideways and will spill oil all down the side of the engine when you change it.
I stick with the stock type canister filter, lots of media and available at NAPA pretty cheap.
Be warned, the spin on adapters put the filter sideways and will spill oil all down the side of the engine when you change it.
I stick with the stock type canister filter, lots of media and available at NAPA pretty cheap.
thanks Lubener, i have the sae90 in mine right now. the hydros are slow til warm. i will be getting 134D for the next service.
ken
ken
Just to warn you the 134d fluid is considerably thinner then your sae 90 gear oil. If you have any worn seals the 134d fluid will find them and leak.
I had a 9N, and used the Wal Mart 80W-90, which is yellow metal safe in the trans/hydraulics. Tractor Supply also carries the orig mineral oil type fluid. Engine just about any car 10W-30, 10W-40, or diesel 15W-40 is a good choice. I think 5W-20 is too thin. The stock canister filter is fine, but since you have the spin-on conversion, you can stick with that.
The heavy gear oil used for all of the trans/diff/hydraulics (common sump and supply) is very think in the cold and it may take some warm-up time before the lift will work.
The heavy gear oil used for all of the trans/diff/hydraulics (common sump and supply) is very think in the cold and it may take some warm-up time before the lift will work.
If that 80w-90 gear oil shows GL-5 on the container,it will attack the yellow parts.I have not seen gear oil in department stores in many years which was not GL-5 rated.What is made for hypoid gear differentials is not suitable for older transmissions.Stick with anything which meetS Ford 134D and you have what is best for it.Tractor supply has this which is much cheaper than the dealer.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
If that 80w-90 gear oil shows GL-5 on the container,it will attack the yellow parts.I have not seen gear oil in department stores in many years which was not GL-5 rated.What is made for hypoid gear differentials is not suitable for older transmissions.Stick with anything which meetS Ford 134D and you have what is best for it.Tractor supply has this which is much cheaper than the dealer.
Good thing NAPA has Sta-Lube 85w90 GL-4 conventional oil. I am not sure how well it works in a tractor, but in the Transmission/Gear/Brake subforum, one guy used it in his 70s Datsun Z-car and got good results.
And I am sure NAPA could order 75w90 GL-4.
Some European cars have 75w90 GL-4 from the factory, and you can use that fluid. Unfortunately, those fluids can be expensive.
If that 80w-90 gear oil shows GL-5 on the container,it will attack the yellow parts.I have not seen gear oil in department stores in many years which was not GL-5 rated.What is made for hypoid gear differentials is not suitable for older transmissions.Stick with anything which meetS Ford 134D and you have what is best for it.Tractor supply has this which is much cheaper than the dealer.
Good thing NAPA has Sta-Lube 85w90 GL-4 conventional oil. I am not sure how well it works in a tractor, but in the Transmission/Gear/Brake subforum, one guy used it in his 70s Datsun Z-car and got good results.
And I am sure NAPA could order 75w90 GL-4.
Some European cars have 75w90 GL-4 from the factory, and you can use that fluid. Unfortunately, those fluids can be expensive.
9N transmission has no yellow metal. The only yellow metal in a 9N drive train is the the hydro pump. (has a large brass bushing)
The 80w90 GL5 at Walmart claims to be yellow metal safe. I used the Walmart GL5 in mine for the past 3 years and no issues so far.
The 80w90 GL5 at Walmart claims to be yellow metal safe. I used the Walmart GL5 in mine for the past 3 years and no issues so far.
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