Moly in Grease

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I've been searching around for a definitive answer about the benefits of Moly in grease and can't seem to find an answer that makes sense to me. I've used up the last cartridge of my Chevron Delo HD EP2 Grease and was looking to get more when I come upon a super deal on some Delo Heavy Duty Moly 5% EP2. I was wanting to know if the 5% Moly will work as good or better than the HD EP2. I looked up the specs on both grease's and they are pretty well the same. I'd also like to know is there any advantage to having extra Moly in Chassis Grease. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Look at the weld point and penetration strokes, those are the two things that determine failure. I used to use shell grease and some Chevron heavy red stuff. The past ten years I use Amsoil grease and its been good to me with very few failed parts.
 
Originally Posted By: Dufus2
Look at the weld point and penetration strokes, those are the two things that determine failure. I used to use shell grease and some Chevron heavy red stuff. The past ten years I use Amsoil grease and its been good to me with very few failed parts.


So, the higher the number for weld point & penetration strokes, the better??
 
The penetration determines how long it will last before breaking down, and weld point deals with pressure like on bucket pins, ball joints etc.
 
Chevron has told me to use Delo EP 2 unless moly is requested or required by the mfg, Jimmy O on the lube tek hot line said this to me many years ago and I only use moly on things like brake wear points etc.
 
Originally Posted By: vssjim
Chevron has told me to use Delo EP 2 unless moly is requested or required by the mfg, Jimmy O on the lube tek hot line said this to me many years ago and I only use moly on things like brake wear points etc.


I was reading the Specs on Chevron's website between the EP2 and the EP2 with 5% moly. The specs are essentially the same but after further reading about Moly it seems it does more good than harm(Which is None)for chassis applications. I can't see it being worse than the regular EP2 without Moly, if anything it may even be better.
 
Back in 1990 I bought a new Dodge W250 Diesel it was everything I could have hoped for and NEVER disappointed me. It always did what I asked of it, never failed me. I loved that truck but it had 1 issue that bothered me.
After taking a corner the steering would not return to center, I had to physically straighten the wheels.
I tried several different greases with no luck.
I then read a Mobil Brochure about their industrial greases.
One grease that caught my attention had Moly in it. It was recommended by Cat for loader pins & bushings and was said to reduce steering effort in vehicles with kingpins.
I ordered a case and after greasing the front end the steering would return to center on its own.

I have used Moly fortified grease for everything since then.
That truck moved loads that at the time were unheard of for a 3/4 ton. I grossed 22,000lbs (certified scale) pulling a 5th wheel with a load of stone up our mountain at times very concerned that my goose neck trailer was going to stretch & fail. Never did that again.
I still have the trucks running gear with the original u-joints in the rear driveshaft. They are still smooth & tight after 250,000 miles.
I would highly recommend grease with Moly!!

Ducati996
 
Moly is an expensive additive which is the primary reason it doesn't appear in more grease formulations.
It will unquestionably improve the lubrication/performance.
What hasn't been addressed is the binder. Lithium is water *resistant* in the same way that a bar of soap is water resistant. In other wards, it doesn't dissolve immediately.
Waterproof is another story and plays a large role in your grease lasting.
Also, when a grease says "synthetic" it only refers to the lubricant inside the grease and not to the binder.
Waterproof, moly grease is the hot ticket.
 
What does Moly grease usually cost?
I been seeing 35lb. lithium complex EP moly 4% grease going for $90.00 online on google shopping, ebay, amazon with fedex shipping.
 
The only time I wouldn't use moly is when it may reach a wet clutch, limited slip etc... which it can cause it to slip... IDK of any other reason is if you like a clean or white looking grease cause I've only seen Moly grease as a dark grey, black grease. I like that clean looking grease whne purging cause easy to tell when old grease is out. Moly looks so dark its harder to tell if you purged out all dirty looking grease.
 
I use moly grease on all the grease nipples on my telescopic boom forklift. I noticed a definite improvement when the telescoping shafts return using it over just white grease. They return a bit faster too when I'm at idle.
And the grease seems to stay longer too. I used to have to grease the nipples weekly because I could hear sweaks and I could feel the machine labour but with this moly grease I don't seem to need to grease as often,but I still do.
These things cost a fortune so do what the book tells me to do.
 
Is moly grease suitable for bearings? i.e mower spindle bearings and automotive wheel bearings?
 
Originally Posted By: 05ChevyI5
Is moly grease suitable for bearings? i.e mower spindle bearings and automotive wheel bearings?

It is good for wheel bearings if "GC/LB" approval is on the package. It should also mention "Suitable for disc brake wheel bearings."

I use Valvoline Durablend which has MoS2 and is approved.
 
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