Hey guys I'm new to the forum but I've followed the site for a while now looking for reviews and tests and whatnot and figured I would finally ask what I've wanted to know. My toy is a 2004 honda civic si with the factory anemic k20a3 engine, now I've owner the car since new, and now she's tipping just under 160,000 miles. And that's not the kicker. It's been pushing out 3x it's stock wheel horsepower for about 70,000 of those miles and still running strong and not consuming any oil one bit, not through the cartridge seals in the turbine or anything. I've been running rotella t6 for the last few years with an oil change once per month, I know that's alot of oil changes but I drive this car HARD. Very hard. The usual mileage intervals are about 2200 miles give or take 100. But like with my car I'm always looking for room for improvement, this there another w40 wether it be 5w40 or 0w40 that would work better for me? I work for Chrysler and I just say pennzoil has an ultra 0w40, but like I said you guys know 8193002x more than me, so I'd love to hear some input and info! Thanks!
Turbo Civic Owner With Questions!
- Thread starter 04ep3hatch
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What you're doing sounds great. If you want a change people use Mobil 1 0W40 interchangeably with T6 5w40 in many applications. It's only viable if you buy at Walmart in the $25 jug though. I wouldn't pay auto parts stores $10 per quart for it.
What kind of filter are you running? The Fram Tough Guards sound good for your interval you could probably leave the filter on 3-4 changes and just drain the pan to get most wear metals out.
What's your air filter?
What kind of filter are you running? The Fram Tough Guards sound good for your interval you could probably leave the filter on 3-4 changes and just drain the pan to get most wear metals out.
What's your air filter?
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3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
What you're doing sounds great. If you want a change people use Mobil 1 0W40 interchangeably with T6 5w40 in many applications. It's only viable if you buy at Walmart in the $25 jug though. I wouldn't pay auto parts stores $10 per quart for it.
What kind of filter are you running? The Fram Tough Guards sound good for your interval you could probably leave the filter on 3-4 changes and just drain the pan to get most wear metals out.
What's your air filter?
I was also thinking the Mobil 1 but is it up to snuff against the T6? And as far as oil filter I run only OEM honda filters, the non-Honeywell filter, I forget the part number but I remember a huge write up on them they have a lot more cc's of filter media and the filter in general is higher quality, my air filter is an un-oil K&N 3" pre-turbo
What you're doing sounds great. If you want a change people use Mobil 1 0W40 interchangeably with T6 5w40 in many applications. It's only viable if you buy at Walmart in the $25 jug though. I wouldn't pay auto parts stores $10 per quart for it.
What kind of filter are you running? The Fram Tough Guards sound good for your interval you could probably leave the filter on 3-4 changes and just drain the pan to get most wear metals out.
What's your air filter?
I was also thinking the Mobil 1 but is it up to snuff against the T6? And as far as oil filter I run only OEM honda filters, the non-Honeywell filter, I forget the part number but I remember a huge write up on them they have a lot more cc's of filter media and the filter in general is higher quality, my air filter is an un-oil K&N 3" pre-turbo
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
It was a little rough at first but with some suspension tuning and staggered tire sizes it's proven to be an all out blast. The car makes just under 350whp and 280wtq in it's current form and I'm looking to go up. And your right about using the T6 if nothing comes up I may just keep using it, the thing that worries me is even though my intervals are so short my oil is very dark when it's drained. The motor itself internally is spotlessly clean though, no bronzing or anything. Still looks new, and where can I send the oil out for analysis??
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
It was a little rough at first but with some suspension tuning and staggered tire sizes it's proven to be an all out blast. The car makes just under 350whp and 280wtq in it's current form and I'm looking to go up. And your right about using the T6 if nothing comes up I may just keep using it, the thing that worries me is even though my intervals are so short my oil is very dark when it's drained. The motor itself internally is spotlessly clean though, no bronzing or anything. Still looks new, and where can I send the oil out for analysis??
Originally Posted By: 04ep3hatch
I was also thinking the Mobil 1 but is it up to snuff against the T6?
Very easily. They're both very fine products.
I was also thinking the Mobil 1 but is it up to snuff against the T6?
Very easily. They're both very fine products.
You can try the Ultra..anything will work
I would consider the M1 0w40 superior to the T6. It gets part of this victory due to its huge list of certifications that T6 doesn't have. I would just get whatever one you can find cheaper, since you are changing it so soon, the oil has plenty of additive left you just want to keep your wear metals washed out like your already doing.
Is that an oil cotton gauze K&N filter? Those things let quite a bit of abrasive silicone into the engine. If you need the extra air flow to keep your horsepower that a different story, but maybe look into a higher efficiency filter like an AEM Dryflow.
Is that an oil cotton gauze K&N filter? Those things let quite a bit of abrasive silicone into the engine. If you need the extra air flow to keep your horsepower that a different story, but maybe look into a higher efficiency filter like an AEM Dryflow.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would consider the M1 0w40 superior to the T6. It gets part of this victory due to its huge list of certifications that T6 doesn't have.
T6 has plenty of certifications that M1 0w-40 doesn't have, too. But, we all know that you can't use T6 in a gasser because Shell said so and because your catalytic converter will fall down and land on your jewels to get revenge on you while you're under the vehicle.
I would consider the M1 0w40 superior to the T6. It gets part of this victory due to its huge list of certifications that T6 doesn't have.
T6 has plenty of certifications that M1 0w-40 doesn't have, too. But, we all know that you can't use T6 in a gasser because Shell said so and because your catalytic converter will fall down and land on your jewels to get revenge on you while you're under the vehicle.
[censored] thats quite a lot of power out of a k20a3, id probably keep doing what youre doing with the rotella.even if the engine blows ul those engines go pretty cheap if you know where to look.
The Mobil 1 0W40 is more suited for extended drain I believe but plenty of people use it for track use its proven good.
Do you know what your oil temperatures are getting up to when your hard on it?
Do you know what your oil temperatures are getting up to when your hard on it?
Do you have an oil temp gauge? If not I'd be installing one especially if you plan to turn the wick up on that stock internal K20!
I assume you have a REAL safe tune as well? How much boost?
But back to your original question, T6 is awesome and obviously working well. But I wouldn't at all be afraid to use M1 0w40 or the new Ultra from Pennzoil.
I assume you have a REAL safe tune as well? How much boost?
But back to your original question, T6 is awesome and obviously working well. But I wouldn't at all be afraid to use M1 0w40 or the new Ultra from Pennzoil.
Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40 or M1 0w40.
And have some UOA's done to gauge how long you can actually run the oil. Polaris Labs in Indianapolis is a place you can get set up to do oil analysis. They have a deal to do 10 analyses for ~$200.
And have some UOA's done to gauge how long you can actually run the oil. Polaris Labs in Indianapolis is a place you can get set up to do oil analysis. They have a deal to do 10 analyses for ~$200.
If your oil temperatures are below a certain point you might consider 5w30 synthetic
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Originally Posted By: 04ep3hatch
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
It was a little rough at first but with some suspension tuning and staggered tire sizes it's proven to be an all out blast. The car makes just under 350whp and 280wtq in it's current form and I'm looking to go up. And your right about using the T6 if nothing comes up I may just keep using it, the thing that worries me is even though my intervals are so short my oil is very dark when it's drained. The motor itself internally is spotlessly clean though, no bronzing or anything. Still looks new, and where can I send the oil out for analysis??
what are your supporting mods for this motor? Dyno sheet to post? Would like to see that too out of curiosity.
Also what fuel are you suing? This will make a difference too in which oil to use.
To be making 350whp out of a 4? My Evo 9 making around that much power was pushing 26psi, thats pretty steep for a Honda motor unless its fully built. The Evo was AWD of course and running pump gas making 350-360awhp on the mustang dyno.
I have allot of experience in this arena. My first turbo build was a 93 civic coupe with an B18 Engine swap that was turbo'd. I jumped from Honda's in 97 went to Mitsubishi Eclipse GST, then in 2003 to the Evo 8, 2006 to an Evo 9, 2012 to a Evo X. Now I drive a VW GTI that I am keeping stock.
Anyway, little off point but there are many factors here. Mainly, fuel type, and Boost. Then I will give you my opinion on what to use.
If it matters to ya. haha
Jeff
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
It was a little rough at first but with some suspension tuning and staggered tire sizes it's proven to be an all out blast. The car makes just under 350whp and 280wtq in it's current form and I'm looking to go up. And your right about using the T6 if nothing comes up I may just keep using it, the thing that worries me is even though my intervals are so short my oil is very dark when it's drained. The motor itself internally is spotlessly clean though, no bronzing or anything. Still looks new, and where can I send the oil out for analysis??
what are your supporting mods for this motor? Dyno sheet to post? Would like to see that too out of curiosity.
Also what fuel are you suing? This will make a difference too in which oil to use.
To be making 350whp out of a 4? My Evo 9 making around that much power was pushing 26psi, thats pretty steep for a Honda motor unless its fully built. The Evo was AWD of course and running pump gas making 350-360awhp on the mustang dyno.
I have allot of experience in this arena. My first turbo build was a 93 civic coupe with an B18 Engine swap that was turbo'd. I jumped from Honda's in 97 went to Mitsubishi Eclipse GST, then in 2003 to the Evo 8, 2006 to an Evo 9, 2012 to a Evo X. Now I drive a VW GTI that I am keeping stock.
Anyway, little off point but there are many factors here. Mainly, fuel type, and Boost. Then I will give you my opinion on what to use.
If it matters to ya. haha
Jeff
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
350 hp Civic? That's like being Arnold Schwarzenegger in his hay day with huge buff arms as a paraplegic without a wheelchair. Think about it.
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Nick
You would be surprised. How they get the power down on FWD is not easy. Is why I switched to AWD in 2003.
Im back in a Turbo FWD platform now and regret it at times. My GTI stock clicks the Traction Control on almost daily, just driving around town. So I will not be modifying this GTI.
AWD or RWD is really the only way to go for BIG P O W A
But there are some Very fast FWD cars. Though they are mainly 1/4 animals. Get them on a track and they are all over the place with that kind of power.
The "REAL TIME" ACURA race team has been very successful but they struggle with that FWD platform.
Jeff
You would be surprised. How they get the power down on FWD is not easy. Is why I switched to AWD in 2003.
Im back in a Turbo FWD platform now and regret it at times. My GTI stock clicks the Traction Control on almost daily, just driving around town. So I will not be modifying this GTI.
AWD or RWD is really the only way to go for BIG P O W A
But there are some Very fast FWD cars. Though they are mainly 1/4 animals. Get them on a track and they are all over the place with that kind of power.
The "REAL TIME" ACURA race team has been very successful but they struggle with that FWD platform.
Jeff
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Last week I saw some pretty insane Hondas and a Toyota XB. The XB was making 600 hp, engine work and a turbo. On top of that it had nitrous. They wouldn't tell me the total hp but I'm guessing between 700-800 hp. Crazy stuff, all out of a 4 cylinder, front wheel drive.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
Dude.
Haven't you learned anything since you've been here.
A 30 dollar used oil analysis isn't going to tell you squat about engine wear. Absolutely nothing.
It will tell you if the oil is still serviceable and that's it.
Unless you are using the data to establish trends,then if anomalies pop up they can be investigated however to do just 1 and expect to learn about wear is absurd.
I would have thought you'd have learned this by now for all the time you spend here.
OP
If you work for Chrysler can you get a deal on the SRT ULTRA. if you can why not give that a shot. If your paying full price I wouldn't bother. Not when M1 0w-40 can be had for 26 bucks a jug.
And once a month oil changes are absurd. Just cause the oils black doesn't mean anything. You're throwing money and resources away and gaining nothing.
Because you've got a turbo I'd use either a euro spec oil or one that meets the Honda turbo spec. Any of them would work great.
An hdeo like your already using is good too. They're made for turbo diesels so no question about them meting appropriate for your application.
3x's the oem hp? Sounds optimistic to me.
Getting that power down on a FWD platform is like catching an ice cube on a frozen Lake ha ha.
If you have had good luck with the T6 why change?
Instead why don't you take a oil sample and see where you stand in terms of wear metals and how the engine oil is holding up.
Make sure you do a TBN on your sample and report back to us.
Jeff
Dude.
Haven't you learned anything since you've been here.
A 30 dollar used oil analysis isn't going to tell you squat about engine wear. Absolutely nothing.
It will tell you if the oil is still serviceable and that's it.
Unless you are using the data to establish trends,then if anomalies pop up they can be investigated however to do just 1 and expect to learn about wear is absurd.
I would have thought you'd have learned this by now for all the time you spend here.
OP
If you work for Chrysler can you get a deal on the SRT ULTRA. if you can why not give that a shot. If your paying full price I wouldn't bother. Not when M1 0w-40 can be had for 26 bucks a jug.
And once a month oil changes are absurd. Just cause the oils black doesn't mean anything. You're throwing money and resources away and gaining nothing.
Because you've got a turbo I'd use either a euro spec oil or one that meets the Honda turbo spec. Any of them would work great.
An hdeo like your already using is good too. They're made for turbo diesels so no question about them meting appropriate for your application.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would consider the M1 0w40 superior to the T6. It gets part of this victory due to its huge list of certifications that T6 doesn't have. I would just get whatever one you can find cheaper, since you are changing it so soon, the oil has plenty of additive left you just want to keep your wear metals washed out like your already doing.
Is that an oil cotton gauze K&N filter? Those things let quite a bit of abrasive silicone into the engine. If you need the extra air flow to keep your horsepower that a different story, but maybe look into a higher efficiency filter like an AEM Dryflow.
Again with this silicone. Dude. It's not silicone. It's silica as in sand.
Silicone comes in tubes to seal things like windows and doors.
If I had a used oil analysis come back with silicone in it I'd be asking who sabotaged the engine.
Silica.
I would consider the M1 0w40 superior to the T6. It gets part of this victory due to its huge list of certifications that T6 doesn't have. I would just get whatever one you can find cheaper, since you are changing it so soon, the oil has plenty of additive left you just want to keep your wear metals washed out like your already doing.
Is that an oil cotton gauze K&N filter? Those things let quite a bit of abrasive silicone into the engine. If you need the extra air flow to keep your horsepower that a different story, but maybe look into a higher efficiency filter like an AEM Dryflow.
Again with this silicone. Dude. It's not silicone. It's silica as in sand.
Silicone comes in tubes to seal things like windows and doors.
If I had a used oil analysis come back with silicone in it I'd be asking who sabotaged the engine.
Silica.
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