03 Elantra Spark Plugs/wires DIY attempt...

Status
Not open for further replies.
9

97tbird

Joined
May 9, 2003
Messages
9,282
Location
Fayetteville, NC
OK,
I don't know when the last spark plug/wire change was for our 03 Elantra (XD)

Car now has 211k miles, and I have been doing small DIY stuff, as it's mainly our beater/spare car now.

I want to to DIY sp. plugs/wires. Have necessary tools, and already saw several DIY videos. I think I can do it.

The main concerns I have are:

- IF it has it been too long, and what if they don't come out easily? I am afraid to break the SP trying to get them out...
- I don't have a torque wrench, so I am just going to tighten snug, then do an additional 1/4 turn...I hope that's ok.
- should I put some anti-seize on plug threads or not ? (I have seen 50/50 mixed yes/no answers to this)
(NGK says NOT to apply anything to plugs...)

I would like stay with OEM which is NGK but can't if the OEM plug is platinum or copper, I want platinums at least so I don't have to change them too often...
I guess I can't go wrong with the 'Laser platinum' in this chart (??)

BUT if OEM (called standard in chart) is platinum, I am fine with them. I just can't find any info if those STANDARD NGKs are platinum or something else.



thinking of getting the same wire set in the chart too...

If you guys can shed some light on above points and/or have additional suggestions/tips for a newbie 1st time SP changer :), they would be appreciated.
 
If youre not a few years from death and plan to do some other tasks, why not just invest in a decent torque wrench? Otherwise your approach is probably OK.

Id take a 1/4" breaker bar with adapter, so you self-limit torque, and just try to tighten/release each. They may come, may not. I like to do a little loosening, then tighten, then loosen up again as I go to help free them. Get a good SP socket. Ive never used AS on SPs.

I guess Im missing your point about platinum plugs... You have every option available. How much longer do you plan to keep the car? And, how tough is it to access the plugs? Id imagine a little 4 cyl is silly easy to get to them.

If youre only going to keep the car another 30-50k miles, copper may be fine, even if you remove and regap. If indefinitely, then Pt or Ir may be good.

Do you have a reason to replace wires? On such a low value car with so many miles, it may be a pricy thing to do for little or no benefit... Any CELs? Misfires? Issues when moist/humid?
 
My new goal for the car is 300k, So another 100k - hence platinum.
I think it's pretty easy to get to them.

No SYMPTOMATIC reason, really; I just know that last plug/wire change was probably over 60-70k miles ago. it MIGHT be over 100k miles ago, but I am not sure. I guess the dealership should be able to tell me as I am sure it's the last place that did it...

I can get NGK plat. plugs and NGK wires for about $60 on amazon, roughly.
 
harbor freight has torque wrenches for 10 bucks buy one.
plug price diffrential isnt much from amazon just buy plat.
I even found iridium XI for cheaper than plat on amazon for my accord.
 
Last edited:
The G-Power BKR5EGP is actually a single platinum plug(tip only). It's available at O'Reilly for $3.xx each, Rockauto may have it for less and shipping for 4 is reasonable at around $2.xx.

Unless the wire(s) is broken or causes misfire, I wouldn't replace it. My LS400 with more than 360k miles has original plug wires except 1, it was broken and replaced with a used one by my mechanic few months ago.

Spark plug is a maintenance item but the wire is not.
 
Last edited:
Personally, I'd go with OEM-grade Laser Iridiums (not the IX) if you're going to bother putting in something else other than standard copper/nickel plugs. And sure, new wires (as long as they are quality replacements, and NGKs should be) at that mileage is cheap insurance.

I'm also of the opinion that spark plugs in aluminum heads need a little anti-sieze regardless of what NGK says. NGK will not reimburse you if you ruin the threads in your cylinder head next time you try removing the plugs, will they?

My two cents, your mileage may vary, etc.
 
NGK is top of the line stuff; if you want to go another 100K with confidence you won't need to do the plugs again, get NGM laser Iridiums that are listed as OE for your car.

As for removing the plugs, like the Nike commercials say, just do it! Get the old plugs out of there. There likely will be no problem at all; you may feel some resistance from carbon built up in the threads which is totally natural. If you've done any kind of wrenching, you will feel when threads are stripped or crossthreaded.

As far as Installing the new ones; a torque wrench IMO is not needed and can be a hinderance to seating new plugs correctly, as plugs can either be taper seat or gasket/crush washer seat. The plugs for your Elantra are crush washer/gasket type (verified from NGK.com), meaning when you thread them in, the gasket needs to be fully crushed for the plug to be seated correctly and be able to transfer heat from the cylinder.

Install each plug by hand first and thread it in until it bottoms out and you can no longer turn it by hand. Then turn it it with a ratchet; most charts say 1/4 turn for taper seat plugs or 3/8s for gasket seat plugs. You need to tighten the plug until the lip on the gasket gets fully crushed, which may not happen with only a 1/4 turn. You're not going to overtighten and strip the threads if you go past a 1/4 turn if you don't feel any resistance; you'd have to really use some muscle to hurt threads once resistance is felt. On my Corolla, it comes to almost a 1/2 turn before the plug will no longer turn with light to moderate force on a 3/8s ratchet, then I stop.
 
Last edited:
5 screws 10mm. remove. (they just hold the cover tight in place)
oil fill cap. remove. (this just holds the cover) (also this is the only thing still holding the cover from being removed...)
remove cover.
cover oil fill hole with something clean....

remove wires one by one and replace with same length. (thats why one by one)



remove old sparkplugs one by one. replace with one new sparkplug one at the time.
put the wire plug back into the sparkplug.

start car. be ready to shut if any crazy sound happens. if this, find mechanic!!!
(do not run this for long time. you still have the oil cap off)
if sound OK, shut car.
take temporary cover from oil fill hole.
place cover back.
tighten 5 10mm screws
put the oil cap back.
start the car and admire your work.
shut car.
get ALL tools where they belong.
dispose old sparkplugs and wires.

go kiss wife.

you are now qualified to change belt in a vacuum cleaner.
 
Spray pt blaster down the holes to make you feel better and will help if it was needed. Then after 10 minutes or so loosen them. They will probably come right out. And to tighten them just do it snug and than 1/8th turn. They need to be tight but not TIGHT! and yes if no says don't put stuff on the plug then dont. They engineered the plug and know what they are doing.
 
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster
harbor freight has torque wrenches for 10 bucks buy one.
plug price diffrential isnt much from amazon just buy plat.
I even found iridium XI for cheaper than plat on amazon for my accord.


Yeah, because when you hear that cheapo wrench click you know you got the torque within +- 40% or so.
But the sound sure makes one feel good about how professionally they handled the job
wink.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ram_man
And to tighten them just do it snug and than 1/8th turn. They need to be tight but not TIGHT! and yes if no says don't put stuff on the plug then dont. They engineered the plug and know what they are doing.


Snug + 1/8 turn IS NOT the correct procedure for installing gasket seat plugs; the gasket has to be crushed all the way and it won't be if you turn them only 1/8 of a turn.
 
I replaced the plugs in my old 05 Elantra and the process was a PITA. The job wasn't hard procedure-wise but everything was stuck-on and hard to remove. I used a $20 beam-style torque wrench from Sears since I'm not good at "feeling" the snugness.

Stick with OEM NGK plat. plugs only; the quality is unbeatable. To my surprise, my car came with Champion plugs from the factory. I kicked myself for keeping those plugs in the car for 80K miles
33.gif
. Be prepared for the spark plug wires to be fused to the plugs. It literally took me an hour of working the wires left-and-right to get them off. I reused them and was surprised they didn't break during the process. In your case at 211K miles, I'd be prepared to replace the wires, too. With a cold engine, shoot some PB Blaster down into the plug holes the night before. Even after doing this, the plugs were hard to break free for me. Make sure you loosen them a little and then re-tighten a little so any crud breaks off. I constantly heard crunching sounds and I was scared the plugs were disintegrating. Luckily they came out fine and I finished up the job.

Be prepared for things to be stuck like [censored] at your mileage. The key thing is patience and finesse.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ram_man
And to tighten them just do it snug and than 1/8th turn. They need to be tight but not TIGHT! and yes if no says don't put stuff on the plug then dont. They engineered the plug and know what they are doing.


Snug + 1/8 turn IS NOT the correct procedure for installing gasket seat plugs; the gasket has to be crushed all the way and it won't be if you turn them only 1/8 of a turn.


the correct way is with a torque wrench. But he doesn't have one and buying a cheap one is a complete waste of money . and yes the proper way without a torque wrench is to get it snug and then 1/8 turn and if that is not enough you do 1/8 turn more. When not having a feel for it it is better to do it in small increments vs over seating the plug and harming the cylinder head. Ever seen that happen it a simple job turned into expensive [censored].
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ram_man
And to tighten them just do it snug and than 1/8th turn. They need to be tight but not TIGHT! and yes if no says don't put stuff on the plug then dont. They engineered the plug and know what they are doing.


Snug + 1/8 turn IS NOT the correct procedure for installing gasket seat plugs; the gasket has to be crushed all the way and it won't be if you turn them only 1/8 of a turn.


the correct way is with a torque wrench. But he doesn't have one and buying a cheap one is a complete waste of money . and yes the proper way without a torque wrench is to get it snug and then 1/8 turn and if that is not enough you do 1/8 turn more. When not having a feel for it it is better to do it in small increments vs over seating the plug and harming the cylinder head. Ever seen that happen it a simple job turned into expensive [censored].


For someone going to school for auto related stuff, you sure don't know much.

When the spark plug manufacturer says 1/2 to 2/3, then I'll believe that.

NGK

Denso
 
OP, you are going to be fine. Just take your time and if you have questions during the job come back on here and ask questions. I have changed plugs in dozens of cars and only broken a plug once. I used some compressed air to clean out the area and then finished pulling the plug out. Make sure the socket you are going to use has the piece of rubber inside that will allow u to easily pull the old plugs out.
 
Originally Posted By: Barkleymut
OP, you are going to be fine. Just take your time and if you have questions during the job come back on here and ask questions. I have changed plugs in dozens of cars and only broken a plug once. I used some compressed air to clean out the area and then finished pulling the plug out. Make sure the socket you are going to use has the piece of rubber inside that will allow u to easily pull the old plugs out.


+1000. If you need some guidance, come back while you're doing it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Kantaro
Volvo multi-ground spark plugs - why?
Replies
19
Views
1K
Carmudgeon
T
Spark plug recommendation for aluminum headed big block ford
Replies
3
Views
439
PontiacHO
F
Headliner Replacement - Dual Overhead AC Controls vs. Original Single Controls Compatability
Replies
5
Views
223
GMBoy
mosaud1998
RockAuto Spark plugs legit or counterfeited?
2 3
Replies
48
Views
10K
Urshurak776
North to Alaska
Diagnose this spark plug?
Replies
12
Views
2K
North to Alaska
Back
Top