Originally Posted By: Cubey
I lean more toward adding a 1qt of heavier oil to your normal oil to thicken it up instead of additives. If you use 10w30 or 10w40, add 1/5 to 1/4 of your oil capacity with 15w50 of properly rated motor oil for your engine to thicken it up without going overboard. That way you are using pure oil, not additives that may cause unwanted things to your engine.
If your vehicle is using oil, you might start by trying to determine the reason.
- If it's a leaking gasket, replace the gasket.
- If it's a leaking engine seal, there are several products which claim to 'swell' the seals and reduce the leakage.
- If oil is passing the rings, consider a product like MoS2, which clings to metal parts, rings and cylinder walls, and may reduce oil usage in the cylinders.
Of course, the simplest and cheapest solution is usually to add more oil (of the correct grade).
The problem with thicker oil (regardless of how you achieve it) is that it reduces engine efficiency. The engine simply has to work harder to move the molasses through the system.
Originally Posted By: Cubey
If you are a worse oil burning problem, maybe do half as 10w30 and half as 20w50. It would still be less extreme as adding a bottle of stop-smoke or a similar additive, I think.
No, no, no. If you really want heavier oil, for whatever reasons, then just start with heavier oil. Don't mix - the results are not predictable. Buy 10w-40 instead of 5w-30.
Originally Posted By: Cubey
Also it wouldn't risk clogging oil filters or pump filter screens.
Clogging filters or pump filter screens is simply not a problem with modern oils and modern additives. This is so regardless of oil weight. Oil filters trap particles in the 15-20+ micron size range. Most additives with particles in suspension use particles < 1 micron in size - maybe much less than this. And, if you really should manage to clog an oil filter, then there is the pressure relief valve.
A few vehicles (e.g. turbo Foresters SGs prior to 2006) had a known problem with certain filter screens clogging. The fix was to remove the screens. BTW, these screens didn't clog from additives but from little pieces of metal as your turbo bearings started disintegrating.
Final thought: if you have a vehicle with variable valve timing (and it's a very common feature on newer vehicles), be aware that motor oil pressure is used for hydraulic actuation of this mechanism. If you use oil that's too heavy (e.g. 10w-40, when the manufacturer specified 5w-30), you run the risk of the VVT mechanism not working properly and possibly causing the low oil pressure light to illuminate. Your oil pressure is not really low, but the oil is not properly passing through the VVT mechanism and the oil pressure light sender is located north of this mechanism.