valvoline Dino motorcycle oil
- Thread starter dslofti
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Originally Posted By: dslofti
Has anyone used valvoline motorcycle oil or tryed it?
Quite a few people on here use it. Check the motorcycle UOA section for some results.
Has anyone used valvoline motorcycle oil or tryed it?
Quite a few people on here use it. Check the motorcycle UOA section for some results.
I used it, and I like it.,,,
I have used used Rotella, Delvac, Delo and a few others. I have quit moving around as I always came back to the Valvoline Motorcyle Dino. All of my machines seem to shift better and crank easier in the winter. I would love to find a sale on it and stock up.
Advanced auto parts usually run it on sale in the spring. Last year I went to 3 stores to get their 4 qts of oil w/ a filter for $19.99 deal, and couldn't find a store that had 4 qts of(20-50) it.You gotta go when it first goes on sale or your out of luck.,,
I've used their 10w-40 grade in several motorcycles & scooters over the past few years...no complaints; I would not hesitate to use it, but I've got @ 10 quarts of various other products to use up first (@ 1 year's worth for the motorcycle & scooter -- 2 changes per vehicle);
forgot to mention...AutoZone runs sales on their motorcycle oil 1-2 times per year; if they are out of Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil they usually can be 'persuaded' to discount the Valvoline 10w-40 ATV oil which they also sell...basically same stuff with a different label (both are JASO-MA rated)...
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I've personally used both the 10W40/20W50 Valvoline petroleum oil; and it's definitely a solid oil for the money along with its easy availability. Amsoil did a motorcycle oil comparison of 15 different oil manufacturers and it placed 5th (narrowly missing 4th) when compared primarily to synthetic/syn. blend oils.
http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G...ived/index.html
Although it was performed in 2009 and formulations do change, here's a glimpse into their oil from their website; and as Quattro Pete suggested, take a look at the UOA's out there.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C96/G...ived/index.html
Although it was performed in 2009 and formulations do change, here's a glimpse into their oil from their website; and as Quattro Pete suggested, take a look at the UOA's out there.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
Sunruh is the bike oil expert here. Iirc he's written that its a good product however I would pm him to be sure.
Maybe he'll see this thread and answer.
Maybe he'll see this thread and answer.
in what bike?
in a car motor harley?
or a shared sump inline4?
difference is night and day.
in a car motor harley?
or a shared sump inline4?
difference is night and day.
When Autozone was clearing out Valvoline, I picked up a few gals of Regular MaxLife 20W-50. I currently have it in the bike in my signature. I've looked at both the data sheets from the MaxLife and the motorcycle oil. Some of the things look better with the MaxLife and some with the motorcycle oil and then some of the stuff I have not idea what they mean. Would someone please help me out as to the strengths and weaknesses of each 20W-50's. I'm kinda new at this, so please gentle
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
Originally Posted By: SJohnson
When Autozone was clearing out Valvoline, I picked up a few gals of Regular MaxLife 20W-50. I currently have it in the bike in my signature. I've looked at both the data sheets from the MaxLife and the motorcycle oil. Some of the things look better with the MaxLife and some with the motorcycle oil and then some of the stuff I have not idea what they mean. Would someone please help me out as to the strengths and weaknesses of each 20W-50's. I'm kinda new at this, so please gentle
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
Motorcycle specific oils won't have any friction modifiers in case its a shared sump. If your Harley has 3 holes to fill,or just 2 one is engine oil then either the primary and tranny are shared if 2 holes or you've got 3 fluids because the primary and tranny are separate.
I like automotive 20w-50 engine oils in my Harley because friction modifiers are beneficial to an oil,and your Harley can benefit from them.
V-twin oils will load up on zddp and eliminate or drastically reduce friction modifiers. Your Harley can use an automotive 20w-50 in the engine.
I'm using conventional rotella 15w-40 in my engine and primary and shockproof heavy in my tranny. My bikes an 08 street bob however I went big bore with an S&S 106 kit,had the heads planed for more compression and to flatten them perfectly. Tw6-6 cams,manual compression releases so I don't kill my starter. Its dyno tuned too.
I'm only using rotella to prove that even with 106 cubes a conventional hdeo is fine for 3000 mile intervals.
Anyways back to the point you can use either of the oils you've posted links to because your engine oil isn't shared however a shared sump bike requires an oil meeting JASO.
When Autozone was clearing out Valvoline, I picked up a few gals of Regular MaxLife 20W-50. I currently have it in the bike in my signature. I've looked at both the data sheets from the MaxLife and the motorcycle oil. Some of the things look better with the MaxLife and some with the motorcycle oil and then some of the stuff I have not idea what they mean. Would someone please help me out as to the strengths and weaknesses of each 20W-50's. I'm kinda new at this, so please gentle
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife.pdf
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
Motorcycle specific oils won't have any friction modifiers in case its a shared sump. If your Harley has 3 holes to fill,or just 2 one is engine oil then either the primary and tranny are shared if 2 holes or you've got 3 fluids because the primary and tranny are separate.
I like automotive 20w-50 engine oils in my Harley because friction modifiers are beneficial to an oil,and your Harley can benefit from them.
V-twin oils will load up on zddp and eliminate or drastically reduce friction modifiers. Your Harley can use an automotive 20w-50 in the engine.
I'm using conventional rotella 15w-40 in my engine and primary and shockproof heavy in my tranny. My bikes an 08 street bob however I went big bore with an S&S 106 kit,had the heads planed for more compression and to flatten them perfectly. Tw6-6 cams,manual compression releases so I don't kill my starter. Its dyno tuned too.
I'm only using rotella to prove that even with 106 cubes a conventional hdeo is fine for 3000 mile intervals.
Anyways back to the point you can use either of the oils you've posted links to because your engine oil isn't shared however a shared sump bike requires an oil meeting JASO.
Yeah, I haven't run motorcycle specific oil in a while. I figured I'd run this 2500 miles and the send a sample out just to see how it's doing. I found this analysis from a BMW that did 2500 on MaxLife. I know it's not a Harley but it is air cooled. Looks ok to me.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...mil#Post2738341
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...mil#Post2738341
Originally Posted By: SJohnson
Yeah, I haven't run motorcycle specific oil in a while. I figured I'd run this 2500 miles and the send a sample out just to see how it's doing. I found this analysis from a BMW that did 2500 on MaxLife. I know it's not a Harley but it is air cooled. Looks ok to me.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...mil#Post2738341
Once I go thru my stash I won't be buying any more synthetic bike oils. I just can't bring myself to running the intervals required to make a synthetic pay off.
And besides I add mos2 and/or ceratec to my oil so its fortified to the nines by the time I'm done with it.
And I am really liking how its running of conventional rotella. It's as quiet as its ever been,well actually motul 10w-60 and RP 20w-50 automotive oil with synerlec were the most quiet of any oil I've used.
Second is Amsoils 60 grade v-twin oil an do rotella is a very close third at less than half the price.
So I was running a syn for 5000 miles and by then the top end was getting pretty noisy as compared to when first changed so that's my upper limit as far as mileage.
Whereas I run rotella for 3000-3500 miles and I'm still way ahead because the oil costs less than half but I'm running it longer in relation to miles.
And because its cheap I don't mind shortening up the interval which keeps newish oil in the sump and the bikes top end from being clackety.
Yeah, I haven't run motorcycle specific oil in a while. I figured I'd run this 2500 miles and the send a sample out just to see how it's doing. I found this analysis from a BMW that did 2500 on MaxLife. I know it's not a Harley but it is air cooled. Looks ok to me.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...mil#Post2738341
Once I go thru my stash I won't be buying any more synthetic bike oils. I just can't bring myself to running the intervals required to make a synthetic pay off.
And besides I add mos2 and/or ceratec to my oil so its fortified to the nines by the time I'm done with it.
And I am really liking how its running of conventional rotella. It's as quiet as its ever been,well actually motul 10w-60 and RP 20w-50 automotive oil with synerlec were the most quiet of any oil I've used.
Second is Amsoils 60 grade v-twin oil an do rotella is a very close third at less than half the price.
So I was running a syn for 5000 miles and by then the top end was getting pretty noisy as compared to when first changed so that's my upper limit as far as mileage.
Whereas I run rotella for 3000-3500 miles and I'm still way ahead because the oil costs less than half but I'm running it longer in relation to miles.
And because its cheap I don't mind shortening up the interval which keeps newish oil in the sump and the bikes top end from being clackety.
Yeah, with the MaxLife on clearance, I paid $1 a qt. That, combined with the Purolator auto filter I'm using, an oil change is costing me like $8. That's less than one qt of Mobil 1 V-Twin. I won't have any problem changing it out at 2500 miles. As far as noise, I really can't tell any difference so far. What does the mos2 and/or createc do? I'm not familiar with that. Guess I'll have to let Google be my friend.
I have used both their 20W50 Dino and 20W50 Synthetic in the Beemer the last two years trips to Sturgis. Worked well..... didn't use hardly a drop.
I bought them at clearance prices each time.
JP
I bought them at clearance prices each time.
JP
Originally Posted By: SJohnson
Yeah, with the MaxLife on clearance, I paid $1 a qt. That, combined with the Purolator auto filter I'm using, an oil change is costing me like $8. That's less than one qt of Mobil 1 V-Twin. I won't have any problem changing it out at 2500 miles. As far as noise, I really can't tell any difference so far. What does the mos2 and/or createc do? I'm not familiar with that. Guess I'll have to let Google be my friend.
They are friction modifiers and wear prevention
Yeah, with the MaxLife on clearance, I paid $1 a qt. That, combined with the Purolator auto filter I'm using, an oil change is costing me like $8. That's less than one qt of Mobil 1 V-Twin. I won't have any problem changing it out at 2500 miles. As far as noise, I really can't tell any difference so far. What does the mos2 and/or createc do? I'm not familiar with that. Guess I'll have to let Google be my friend.
They are friction modifiers and wear prevention
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: SJohnson
Yeah, with the MaxLife on clearance, I paid $1 a qt. That, combined with the Purolator auto filter I'm using, an oil change is costing me like $8. That's less than one qt of Mobil 1 V-Twin. I won't have any problem changing it out at 2500 miles. As far as noise, I really can't tell any difference so far. What does the mos2 and/or createc do? I'm not familiar with that. Guess I'll have to let Google be my friend.
They are friction modifiers and wear prevention
Yeah, I did some Google surfing on that last night. I'll have to do some more before use it, besides I'd like to do a UOA of this fill just to see how it does.
Originally Posted By: SJohnson
Yeah, with the MaxLife on clearance, I paid $1 a qt. That, combined with the Purolator auto filter I'm using, an oil change is costing me like $8. That's less than one qt of Mobil 1 V-Twin. I won't have any problem changing it out at 2500 miles. As far as noise, I really can't tell any difference so far. What does the mos2 and/or createc do? I'm not familiar with that. Guess I'll have to let Google be my friend.
They are friction modifiers and wear prevention
Yeah, I did some Google surfing on that last night. I'll have to do some more before use it, besides I'd like to do a UOA of this fill just to see how it does.
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