Mobil 1 0-40 or Mobil 1 Turbo diesel truck 5-40

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Oil is going in a 2012 HD Heritage Softail Custom 103 twin cam. The Softail does not have a shared engine/primary/transmission, they are separate. The OCI for this bike is 5,000 miles. I bought it new as a hold over on July 27th 2013 and put a 1,000 miles on it in a week and then changed the break in oil. I put another 1670 miles on it going to Sturgis bike week and then a few hundred more before the end of August when I had to quit riding due to job and then winter set in. It now sits in hibernation for a couple more months. Bike has a little over 3,000 miles on it. Most of the miles I drive are rural 2 lane highways at speeds of 55-65 MPH with very few interstate at 75 MPH.

I live in north Dakota and yes it does get over 100*F at times but usually temps are around 80-90 for highs and I ride as low as 50*F. If you've ever been to Sturgis during bike week it can pretty hot and slow driving in Sturgis.

O.K. now the question. If you had to choose between the 2 oils listed and they both cost the same which oil would you use for the described driving conditions.
 
TDT is more likely to last 5k miles than 0w40. If you are really interested in running 5k mile OCI's....consider 5w50, 15w5O, or 20w50.
 
Mobil V Twin 20W-50 would be my choice, but if you have to go with something thinner, Mobil 1 Racing 4 T 10W-40 is made for motorcycles. Amsoil has a web site that compares many oils and Mobil V Twin 20W-50 scores very good compared to other oils, even when compared to Amsoil oils. Sitting in traffic with 95 Fahrenheit weather and an air cooled engine is really tough on the oil. I remember my Honda 750 stalling out when the oil got too hot in traffic like that. I doubt that it would have stalled if I had Mobil V Twin 20W-50 in it back then in 1980, I don't even know if that oil was made back then. But now days I would seriously give the V Twin 20W-50 a second look.
 
Just thinking alternatives for now. I was thinking if the HD 360 dino oil could go 5,000 miles on a OC then a true synthetic like 0-40 shouldn't have a problem, at least I've been lead to believe mobil 1 0-40 is a group iv synthetic?

The diesel oil I threw in because this site along with VOA/UOA say they are just as robust or close to true motorcycle oils. Guys are running HDEO 40W in many different bikes even shared sump bikes with great results.

My original oil flavor was going to be Mystic JT8 synthetic blend 15-50 diesel oil and change it at 3,000 miles. I know I could change it out before a long trip but I might drive 3,000-5,000 miles this next years long trip and then I would be looking for a place to change it again during my trip.

If I use an expensive oil to start the season then I would more then likely have to dump it early so I can have fresh oil for the extended trip.

I was thinking too that with the lighter 40 grade and being synthetic I might gain a little MPG. Not that the MPG would amount to a real critical savings but still maybe bragging rights.

Just thoughts floating around in my head.
 
Both M1 0W-40 and TDT are great oils for their intended applications, and among the best in the M1 lineup, but I'd look elsewhere for an air cooled V-twin. The Mobil 1 V-twin 20W-50, Valvoline 4-stroke 20W-50 or the Amsoil MCV 20W-50 are great choices and probably the easiest to source. Motul and Bel Ray make motorcycle oils that are worth a look if you want something a little more exotic.
 
I should add that I can get either of the mobil oils at wally for 5 bucks a quart in the 5 quart jug. About half price of synthetic motorcycle oil. Which means I could change it twice for the same price as a synthetic motorcycle oil.

I like the idea of fresh oil twice.
 
Originally Posted By: pwr2tow
Just thinking alternatives for now.


Well, if I was going to deviate from utilizing Harley branded lubricants: https://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Co...hdtopic000039-1

"If it is necessary to add oil and Harley-Davidson oil is not available, use an oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable diesel engine oil designations include: SH, CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4.

The preferred viscosities for the diesel engine oils in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40."


Delvac 1300 15w-40 is available at Walmart for $12/gallon.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: pwr2tow
Just thinking alternatives for now.


Well, if I was going to deviate from utilizing Harley branded lubricants: https://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Co...hdtopic000039-1

"If it is necessary to add oil and Harley-Davidson oil is not available, use an oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable diesel engine oil designations include: SH, CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4.

The preferred viscosities for the diesel engine oils in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40."


Delvac 1300 15w-40 is available at Walmart for $12/gallon.


That's what got me thinking about alternative oils and then reading on this site guys using HDEO in larger displacement motorcycle engines then my bike without problems.

I figured the Mystic jt8 synthetic blend 15-50 would be a great oil to use being it's correct for oil grade/weight, a diesel oil, synthetic blend, and it's 3 bucks a quart.
 
this thread is a joke, correct. why would you not use a 20/50 syn ma rated oil regardless of manufacturer. you should not be useing an oil less than a 15 in that engine. is there something that you know that everyone else doesnt? who in there right mind would use a 0 or 5 weight oil in a hd air cooled engine let alone contemplate it. ridiculous!
 
What?

Originally Posted By: skully
this thread is a joke, correct. why would you not use a 20/50 syn ma rated oil regardless of manufacturer. you should not be useing an oil less than a 15 in that engine. is there something that you know that everyone else doesnt? who in there right mind would use a 0 or 5 weight oil in a hd air cooled engine let alone contemplate it. ridiculous!
 
K. I built my Harley so I'm gonna take a stab at why 0w-xx aren't a good idea.
I noticed that my pistons weren't as tight in the jugs compared to any v8 I've ever had a hand on. So that tells me a 0w in a Harley is gonna get consumed at start up, until the piston expands enough to tighten in the bores,which is why a 20w or 15w is suggested.
I'm just using some sense and experience although I could be wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: fonecord2
I would to limit start up wear. I would need to see more uoa's before I jump in


I don't think start up wear is a huge issue.
Think about it. A bike is ridden in warmer temps. A 20w-50 or 15w-40 isn't thick in temps above 0c when most riders will be on their bikes,so a 5w-xx or 0w-xx isn't really needed.
I've used castrol 5w-50 and Mobil 1 5w-50 in my Harley. I never noticed any consumption but the noise was just too much and I drained them within 1000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: skully
this thread is a joke, correct. why would you not use a 20/50 syn ma rated oil regardless of manufacturer. you should not be useing an oil less than a 15 in that engine. is there something that you know that everyone else doesnt? who in there right mind would use a 0 or 5 weight oil in a hd air cooled engine let alone contemplate it. ridiculous!


After reading Harley Davidson website forums for many years. Reading v-twin website forums for many years. Been a BITOG member for many years, reading and studying oil compositions and seeing chemical (additive packages) change over many years I'll respond to your post as follows.

Thank you for your response but please put me on your ignore list.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: fonecord2
I would to limit start up wear. I would need to see more uoa's before I jump in


I don't think start up wear is a huge issue.
Think about it. A bike is ridden in warmer temps. A 20w-50 or 15w-40 isn't thick in temps above 0c when most riders will be on their bikes,so a 5w-xx or 0w-xx isn't really needed.
I've used castrol 5w-50 and Mobil 1 5w-50 in my Harley. I never noticed any consumption but the noise was just too much and I drained them within 1000 miles.


But I have to ask was the noise from synthetic or from the lower first multi-grade number?

Lots of people say they can hear more engine noise from a Harley with synthetics and less engine noise from conventional oils.

Would a cold 0 or 5 grade flow heavier then a hot 40 grade?

The only problem I see with using a wider spread multi-grade oil is that it could shear down faster. Is that still a problem with a true group IV synthetic?

Not trying to be a smart alex by asking questions, it's those questions that help educate someone like me. I had to throw that in here because it seems like I don't have the right tact when it comes to asking questions. LOL.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
K. I built my Harley so I'm gonna take a stab at why 0w-xx aren't a good idea.
I noticed that my pistons weren't as tight in the jugs compared to any v8 I've ever had a hand on. So that tells me a 0w in a Harley is gonna get consumed at start up, until the piston expands enough to tighten in the bores,which is why a 20w or 15w is suggested.
I'm just using some sense and experience although I could be wrong.


Sorry I missed your first post. Makes perfect sense to me. But now I have to ask what about the rest of the tolerances within the engine such as bearings, journals, valve guides etc. etc.
 
Originally Posted By: pwr2tow
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: fonecord2
I would to limit start up wear. I would need to see more uoa's before I jump in


I don't think start up wear is a huge issue.
Think about it. A bike is ridden in warmer temps. A 20w-50 or 15w-40 isn't thick in temps above 0c when most riders will be on their bikes,so a 5w-xx or 0w-xx isn't really needed.
I've used castrol 5w-50 and Mobil 1 5w-50 in my Harley. I never noticed any consumption but the noise was just too much and I drained them within 1000 miles.


But I have to ask was the noise from synthetic or from the lower first multi-grade number?

Lots of people say they can hear more engine noise from a Harley with synthetics and less engine noise from conventional oils.

Would a cold 0 or 5 grade flow heavier then a hot 40 grade?

The only problem I see with using a wider spread multi-grade oil is that it could shear down faster. Is that still a problem with a true group IV synthetic?

Not trying to be a smart alex by asking questions, it's those questions that help educate someone like me. I had to throw that in here because it seems like I don't have the right tact when it comes to asking questions. LOL.


K. I'll answer to the best of my ability.
Yes a 0w-40 is thicker cold than a sae 40 is hot,however the hot oils additive package is activated when hot so its protecting better than the cold 0w-40.
As far as the noise goes I've tried everything in my bike,from synthetics to hdeo's and the least noisy was royal purple automotive 20w-50,second least noisy is the rotella that's in it now.
I've used m1 15w-50,20w-50 v-twin,amsoil 20w-50 and more than I can remember.
I liked the motorex 10w-60 stuff but it was way too costly.
I've got to give honourable mention to Amsoil sae60. I've got 10 quarts left I'll use up this summer. It was a really nice oil running in my bike.
 
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