From HID projectors to halogen

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Some may recall that 2 years ago or so I retrofitted morimoto HID projectors into the 2006 tundra in my sig. The oem light output was not really--- anything-- you really couldn't tell they were on. I put a lot of work into the headlamps, and also then did the mod on the fogs.

During that process I discovered where the problem was--- the reflective surface of the oem lamps was all greyed out above the bulbs. but I was committed to the install by the time I saw it.

Well, The fogs turned out way better... and I suspect it's because those projectors are meant to be a certain distance from the ground--- and the headlamps may just be too high. No matter what I did, to keep the upper cutoff at appropriate elevation, the amount of midground light was still too much. With the upper cutoff out of others' eyes, there was not enough hot-spot biased to the very top of the throw, like an oem would provide. It was fine for city and around town driving, but awkward on the highway. It wasn't a problem if I ran the fogs, which for some reason just excelled in that application... light just went on forever and ever... and together it was very nice.

But the perfectionist in me was just quite pleased.

So this weekend I spent several hours undoing all of it. And I polished the oem reflectors, and did a normal cleanup on the plastic covers. And put in I think it was the Xtravision--- just $5 more than the standard offering, nothing radical.

It was weird going back....

1. I just prefer the light color devoid of "bright white." my hids were not blue. i think 4100. The 3200k halogen is just easier on the eyes.

2. the oem lamps are harder to aim -- the HID has a smoother distribution--- just buttery smooth--- and the sharp cutoff along with the notched line make them easier to sight. You really have to read the hot-spots on the oem beam pattern, which are not identical, to get it right.

3. distance distribution is better with the oem beam by a country mile.

4. the oem beam is just as bright on the road, but in doing so they don't have the lumens to spare on side fill like the HIDs.

5. I can read street signs again

6. colored traffic markers are more vibrant with the halogens.

So it's odd. The projectors in the fogs are still fabulous --- and it's the exact same unit. But really, while I liked the side fill and brighter light on the mainbeams, the long-distance hwy vision was just abused by the not-quite-right distribution from the mains.

So there you have it. It can be very hard to outdo the oems.

I'm still a fan of projectors--- you just have to respect the application.

I suspect HID will be with the dinosaurs in a few years anyway--- LED will most likely stomp it out of existence. The LED drop-ins already look to be just as good (which is not to say they are any good, just *as* good) as the HID retrofits.
 
Just a caution on the extra visions, they may have some brightness advantage compared to standard bulbs though they list the same 55w/60w on the base, but their life is abysmal! I just had to change out a set in ONE year! :p

The same goes for silverstar, etc. Just unacceptable life.
 
I've found the Sylvania Xtravision bulbs to have excellent life where I've used them. I've not yet burned one out, though I have swapped them out just trying different bulbs. I currently have GE Nighthawk Platinums in our Acura and Philips Vision Plus in our Honda. I do expect the GEs to have poor life...but I do have a bunch of Xtravisions on hand that I've picked up at Walmart on clearance that I will go back to.

But I have many years' of life on a number of Xtravision bulbs. I wonder if there's something else at play in your situation, SOHCman (like voltage issues, etc).
 
I generally prefer a good halogen setup to HIDs. Halogens can be used in projector setups for the light distribution when other good housings aren't available. HIDs are harsh and have poor color rendering (closer to seeing in greyscale), even at lower color temperatures.

In the Jeep, I've got a fairly monstrous halogen setup. The headlights are reproductions of the glass-lens OEM European spec lights, which have a nice cutoff, a good beam pattern and no concerns for hazing the lenses over time. For bulbs, I'm running fairly cheap Hella 55/100s (55w low beam, 100w high beam) with upgraded wiring.

My fog lights are yellow lens IPF 840s with 85w bulbs mounted in the stock fog locations. On the front of the bumper are a pair of pencil beams (cheap ones, planning to upgrade at some point) with 130w bulbs and a pair of IPF 968 combo beams with 100w bulbs. Those 4 are triggered with the high beams for extra light. The only downside is that on high beam, I'm drawing about 55 amps for lighting!
 
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If you used the Mori H1 or D2S then it's no surprise the output wasn't that great. The Mori's excel in side vision but not whatsoever in distance, the beam is just to weak. If you wanted distance and width then an OEM projector like the TL, RX350/330 or TSX using D2S would have provided what you needed. If you ever consider going back to HID then go to retrofit source and contact Andrew, discuss what you want for your application and they can set you up.
I'm actually using my OEM lights with the new Philips HIR1 and 2 right now as I'm having some work done on my retrofit. Even though the HIR's are better than stock, I still want my HID's back....
Maybe you could try the HIR1 and 2 as an option???
 
The worst thing about projectors with hid's is when they hit a bump(oncoming traffic) it blinds me.

We have lots of potholes and frost heaves.


The bad hackjob base hids shoved into halogen reflectors are worse.

you can spot them 1/2 mile away and they cant see any better.. just blind everyone.

I applaud you for actually aiming yours (im serious)

If only everyone did.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
The worst thing about projectors with hid's is when they hit a bump(oncoming traffic) it blinds me.

We have lots of potholes and frost heaves.


The bad hackjob base hids shoved into halogen reflectors are worse.

you can spot them 1/2 mile away and they cant see any better.. just blind everyone.

I applaud you for actually aiming yours (im serious)

If only everyone did.


This is why BMW (and I'm sure other marques) have auto aimers on the lights that move them with the suspension, it prevents the lights from blinding oncoming drivers when you hit a bump or when you heavily load the trunk
smile.gif


I see a lot of the poorly done retrofits around here (and I'd say most in reflector housings....), so it is refreshing to hear of people like the OP who actually take the time to properly setup things
thumbsup2.gif
 
If I could use HIRs I would-- I've used them in the highs of a previous vehicle (the lows worked just fine stock) and they were true to focus and aim. this truck calls for 9003, which is dual element with a shield to keep the low beam restricted to the upper half of the housing. For the work, I'd basically have to shoehorn a dual reflector setup into the oem housing--- and I'm just not that good.

Frankly, had I realized where the problem was before I started the work, this would have been a better outcome anyway. looks like it may have had overwatt bulbs in it, graying out the reflective surface inside. It was not obvious with the clear shell in place. It's pretty striking how small the defects have to be to scatter the light. I couldn't get it all, but I was able to restore probably about 80% of the affected area, which was probably 6-9 sq inches of mirror. kitchen cleaner and elbow grease. lens polish would have probably been good to use as well, but this worked well enough.
 
Originally Posted By: Roob
If you used the Mori H1 or D2S then it's no surprise the output wasn't that great. The Mori's excel in side vision but not whatsoever in distance, the beam is just to weak. If you wanted distance and width then an OEM projector like the TL, RX350/330 or TSX using D2S would have provided what you needed. If you ever consider going back to HID then go to retrofit source and contact Andrew, discuss what you want for your application and they can set you up.
I'm actually using my OEM lights with the new Philips HIR1 and 2 right now as I'm having some work done on my retrofit. Even though the HIR's are better than stock, I still want my HID's back....
Maybe you could try the HIR1 and 2 as an option???


yes--- it was the mori H1. supposedly there's a newer version that sounds like it addresses this problem. However I still think some of it has to do with the height they are designed to operate at---- as I mentioned, the fogs, also running the H1, are smooth and even-- very nice--- and are staying that way (also have selective yellow tint over the housing, which I prefer.)

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Rand
The worst thing about projectors with hid's is when they hit a bump(oncoming traffic) it blinds me.

We have lots of potholes and frost heaves.


The bad hackjob base hids shoved into halogen reflectors are worse.

you can spot them 1/2 mile away and they cant see any better.. just blind everyone.

I applaud you for actually aiming yours (im serious)

If only everyone did.


This is why BMW (and I'm sure other marques) have auto aimers on the lights that move them with the suspension, it prevents the lights from blinding oncoming drivers when you hit a bump or when you heavily load the trunk
smile.gif


I see a lot of the poorly done retrofits around here (and I'd say most in reflector housings....), so it is refreshing to hear of people like the OP who actually take the time to properly setup things
thumbsup2.gif



Thanks Overkill and Rand-- if I recall, your [overkill's] paper on your own mods was an excellent starting point for me. I "bench tested" mine on a stand, on a street, and spent a lot of time fiddling with the cutoff shields inside to try to make sure the focus and cutoffs were proper, before ever taking a wrench to the vehicle. I probably went much farther in "trying to get it right" than the typical bolt-in would suggest.... didn't want to put the time and money into it only to be disappointed. IIRC you also used an oem projector, which required more fabrication than the morimotos... though arguably for better result.
 
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Originally Posted By: meep


Thanks Overkill and Rand-- if I recall, your [overkill's] paper on your own mods was an excellent starting point for me. I "bench tested" mine on a stand, on a street, and spent a lot of time fiddling with the cutoff shields inside to try to make sure the focus and cutoffs were proper, before ever taking a wrench to the vehicle. I probably went much farther in "trying to get it right" than the typical bolt-in would suggest.... didn't want to put the time and money into it only to be disappointed. IIRC you also used an oem projector, which required more fabrication than the morimotos... though arguably for better result.


Wouldn't have been me, that credit must belong to another member on here, as I've not authored anything on modding headlights. I'm a fan of OEM setups and OEM retrofits, and have voiced that in the past, but I have written nothing that would have served as an sort of basis for what you've described.

smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Rand
The worst thing about projectors with hid's is when they hit a bump(oncoming traffic) it blinds me.

We have lots of potholes and frost heaves.


The bad hackjob base hids shoved into halogen reflectors are worse.

you can spot them 1/2 mile away and they cant see any better.. just blind everyone.

I applaud you for actually aiming yours (im serious)

If only everyone did.


This is why BMW (and I'm sure other marques) have auto aimers on the lights that move them with the suspension, it prevents the lights from blinding oncoming drivers when you hit a bump or when you heavily load the trunk
smile.gif


I see a lot of the poorly done retrofits around here (and I'd say most in reflector housings....), so it is refreshing to hear of people like the OP who actually take the time to properly setup things
thumbsup2.gif



Not blinding people too badly over bumps is why I stuck with 55w low beams. The cutoff on my lights is almost projector-sharp, but not quite. However, there's no auto aim or anything (and retrofitting the manual electronic aim from the euro version isn't easy and still doesn't help over bumps).
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I've found the Sylvania Xtravision bulbs to have excellent life where I've used them. I've not yet burned one out, though I have swapped them out just trying different bulbs. I currently have GE Nighthawk Platinums in our Acura and Philips Vision Plus in our Honda. I do expect the GEs to have poor life...but I do have a bunch of Xtravisions on hand that I've picked up at Walmart on clearance that I will go back to.

But I have many years' of life on a number of Xtravision bulbs. I wonder if there's something else at play in your situation, SOHCman (like voltage issues, etc).
the one year failure actually just happened in my 04 Vibe, which I'm starting to attribute to it having full time headlights. Before that I had them in the honda and that lasted closer to 2 years, but even that is too short imho.
 
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