Interesting official info from MMO

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Posted by an admin on the MMO forums:

Chlorinated Paraffin: This is an extreme pressure oil additive that does prevent metal to metal wear in extreme load situations. Yes, it is true, these compounds can thermally break down and form hydrochloric acid compounds in the presents of water. Chlorinated Paraffin has been used in some motor oil additives, however, I have never seen a report that has conclusively proven these types of additives to result in engine bearing pitting or other forms of damage. I would guess that the conditions would need to be right for this to happen.
Total Base Number (TBN): All motor oils contain detergent blends of either calcium sulfonate or magnesium sulfonate to prevent sludge formation and to neutralize acid formation in the crankcase. MMO does not contain this type of additive. So yes, the TBN number will be slightly lower after adding MMO to the crankcase. However, MMO does contain unique sludge control additives that supplements the oil’s ability to keep internal engine components free of varnish type forming deposits. The sulfonates combined with the sludge dissolving ingredients of MMO will keep oil passageways and internal components clean.
The original formula is still used today and has not been changed since it was first sold in metal cans. MMO also penetrates metal surfaces to prevent corrosion. It is highly recommended in engines exposed to high humid operating conditions. I hope this answers all of your questions. Please let us know if you have any others!
 
Sounds more like a employee of the company.

What in engine lubrication has not vastly changed (improved) in the last 20 years? Am I to believe MMO's formula was so good all those years ago that it did not need to be improved?
 
I like the first answer that acid can form in the presence of water and the last answer recommending using it in humid conditions!
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The original formula is still used today and has not been changed since it was first sold in metal cans.

...Is this supposed to be a good thing?
 
MMO is good uppercylinder lubricant, and the Hcl creation is what going to clean your engine in first place.

Gota love these snake oils.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The original formula is still used today and has not been changed since it was first sold in metal cans.

...Is this supposed to be a good thing?


Just to clarify, that was said by MMO not by me!
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
I like the first answer that acid can form in the presence of water and the last answer recommending using it in humid conditions!


It talks about Chlorinated Paraffin, it does not say that MMO contains CP's

I've only used MMO once, when I had a Stuck piston ring problem.
The ring became un-stuck within 200 miles.
I haven't used it since.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
I like the first answer that acid can form in the presence of water and the last answer recommending using it in humid conditions!


It talks about Chlorinated Paraffin, it does not say that MMO contains CP's

I've only used MMO once, when I had a Stuck piston ring problem.
The ring became un-stuck within 200 miles.
I haven't used it since.


Your right it doesn't say it has CP's, it says..
Quote:
MMO does not contain this type of additive. So yes, the TBN number will be slightly lower after adding MMO to the crankcase. However, MMO does contain unique sludge control additives that supplements the oil’s ability to keep internal engine components free of varnish type forming deposits


Nothing new here. Same old same old.
 
I took exactly the opposite, it says it does not contain calcium or magnesium sulfonate, but does not specify whether or not it contains chlorinated parrafin. I would assume it does based on what ive read about mmo. I use mmo almost religiously in the winter time because it pours better than the lucas ucl that i use in the summer months. I believe in a ucl and i like the idea that it might offset the negtives of winterblend gasoline, and the dryness of E10. I don't see any merit in the crankcase with a modern oil. If i owned a model A in 1932, or a ww2 fighter plane with an air cooled engine i might be tempted to use it, but not in a modern engine with modern oil. I know some guys think it helps with a cold start, but i dont see the benefit of messing with the viscosity or the tbn of the oil i use.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
I like the first answer that acid can form in the presence of water and the last answer recommending using it in humid conditions!


It talks about Chlorinated Paraffin, it does not say that MMO contains CP's

I've only used MMO once, when I had a Stuck piston ring problem.
The ring became un-stuck within 200 miles.
I haven't used it since.


Good point!
 
MMO is 70%+ mineral oil, 20%-30% mineral spirits and up to 5% o-Dichlorobenzene.

The mineral spirit is a cleaning solvent. The o-Dichlorobenzene is a solvent that dissolves certain carbon molecules.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
MMO is 70%+ mineral oil, 20%-30% mineral spirits and up to 5% o-Dichlorobenzene.

The mineral spirit is a cleaning solvent. The o-Dichlorobenzene is a solvent that dissolves certain carbon molecules.


Now that is interesting.
I accidentally spilled mmo on my old stock Harley pistons that had significant carbon deposits. A few days later the parts of the pistons that had the mmo spilled on I wiped the carbon deposits off with a rag,but the dry spots still had the hard deposits stuck on.
I guess that dichlorobenzene stuff really works.
 
Originally Posted By: driver123
I took exactly the opposite, it says it does not contain calcium or magnesium sulfonate, but does not specify whether or not it contains chlorinated parrafin. I would assume it does based on what ive read about mmo. I use mmo almost religiously in the winter time because it pours better than the lucas ucl that i use in the summer months. I believe in a ucl and i like the idea that it might offset the negtives of winterblend gasoline, and the dryness of E10. I don't see any merit in the crankcase with a modern oil. If i owned a model A in 1932, or a ww2 fighter plane with an air cooled engine i might be tempted to use it, but not in a modern engine with modern oil. I know some guys think it helps with a cold start, but i dont see the benefit of messing with the viscosity or the tbn of the oil i use.


No idea if it offsets anything or not, i am not a regular user of the product in the fuel or the engine, it does seem to do some good with sticky lifters and so on.

I do use it along with some other chemicals to protect injectors for long term storage and never noticed any sort of metal etching or pitting after a year or more of them being filled with it undiluted.

Edit:
Originally Posted By: Molakule
The chlorine is used in the chemical process to cause reactions with the benzene to form the solvent
 
Last edited:
I did a little toggling this morning and decided to post.

Originally Posted By: Trav

Nothing new here. Same old same old.


Yes same old same old. I was wondering when one of these threads would appear again.

Here's how I see it.


Originally Posted By: Donald
Sounds more like a employee of the company.

What in engine lubrication has not vastly changed (improved) in the last 20 years? Am I to believe MMO's formula was so good all those years ago that it did not need to be improved?


You're right, however the improvement in modern oil makes MMO's job even easier cleaning the sludge and varnish produced in the garbage oil of yesteryear. A good oil should produce less of it, perhaps making the need for a good engine cleaner even less, assuming the engine doesn't have problems or is neglected. As far as the formula not changing, maybe it's just when you have something good that works you stick with it. It reminds me of Kroil, old formula, many companies have tried to formulate something better, but IMO they still haven't.

A few years back Molakule said in one of these epic threads:

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
Is this enough to form sufficient hydrochloric acid to do serious harm to an engine in the combustion chamber? Would the small amount of blowby gases laden with hydrochloric acid be enough to cause harm in the crankcase? Or are the acid neutralizers in a good motor oil enough to render this small amount harmless?



I don't think there are enough chlorine molecules to form an acid, and yes the calcium and other acid neutralizers would take care of what might be there.

The chlorine is used in the chemical process to cause reactions with the benzene to form the solvent.

As far as cutting fluids, a different chlorinated compound is used, and it is being phased out in lieu of Greener friction reducers and EP compounds.



Composition:

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff.

Bottom line if you feel it is harmful to an engine, don't use it. If you can find an engine that was actually destroyed by it, or had its life cut short because of it please post the proof. Many of us are interested in seeing it. Finally if you want to read threads almost identical to this one, a simple search will reveal hundreds of them.
 
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