Hydraulic Oil with water crystals

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zzd

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Dec 31, 2013
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Western New York
I have a Ford 1510 tractor, which shares the hydraulic oil with the transmission, the brakes and the lift and loader. I have had the system become unusable with increasing frequency. I believe that ice crystals are forming in the fluid and they are clogging the filter or screens. As the fluid heats up, everything works OK. Aside from the problem with cold temp operations, I am concerned about long term oxidation with water in the system.

I am thinking of an immersion dip stick heater, a magnetic heater attached to the transmission housing casting, and other methods. But I thought I would float the idea first for any ideas, perhaps from those who have been here before.

If I had an old turkey fryer, I would drain the oil, and boil off the water. But I don't, so that approach is off the table, for now at least.

Any ideas?
 
Originally Posted By: zzd
Any ideas?


Tractors are expensive. Oil is cheap.

Super Tech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission Fluid is available at WalMart for $42/5 gallons.

Seal up ingress points (shifter boot, fill cap), fill it up with the new fluid, and tarp it when not in use.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: zzd
Any ideas?

So, fill it up with the new fluid, seal up ingress points (shifter boot, fill cap), and tarp it when not in use.




+1

My cousin has an old Deutz and was having a similar problem. He asked me to check it out and sure enough, shifter boot was gone, (rotted off). It sat outside all the time and so at every rain, water would find it's way inside transmission and thus, into system. We changed the fluid three times, running it good and hot between each change. New shift boot and a blue tarp from Harbor Freight and we're good.
 
Check out my related post -
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...e_t#Post3207695

My shifter boots are rotted off but I keep a plastic pail upside down over top of the shifters when not in use, since my unit is parked outside all year. I have no other obvious points of water ingress.

I change all my universal tractor fluid in my transmission once a year, and that still cannot keep up with keeping down the moisture. Happily, I do not have enough water to cause ice problems that I know of.

OP, how often do you change the fluid? Is there a low point in your hydraulic system that you can open on a warm day, after the tractor has been sitting, to let out some water? That is assuming the water is separating and not staying mixed with the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: 51Plymouth
My shifter boots are rotted off but I keep a plastic pail upside down over top of the shifters when not in use, since my unit is parked outside all year.


Why wouldn't you just buy new boots?
 
Why wouldn't you just buy new boots? [/quote]

I guess I could buy new boots, I thought the pail would be a more certain method. I have two shift levers beside each other, and also a large threaded filler cap beside the shift levers. I have snow and ice in my area in winter and melting snow and ice "could" still work its way in around the cap and boots before it has time to drain off. Also it is nice after a heavy snow or ice storm to just pull off the pail and have clean and dry shift levers.
 
Originally Posted By: 51Plymouth
I guess I could buy new boots, I thought the pail would be a more certain method. I have two shift levers beside each other, and also a large threaded filler cap beside the shift levers. I have snow and ice in my area in winter and melting snow and ice "could" still work its way in around the cap and boots before it has time to drain off. Also it is nice after a heavy snow or ice storm to just pull off the pail and have clean and dry shift levers.


Buy the new boots -- their cheap, and when installed correctly, will provide the best protection by far for keeping contaminants out.

Also, if your equipment is being stored outside, please keep a tarp on...it'll prevent so much frustration.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: zzd
Any ideas?


Tractors are expensive. Oil is cheap.


This. This a thousand times.

The water in your oil will create acid. Acid that attacks metals.

If you got water issues, but don't wana to fix ingress points.... buy a drum of cheap oil and change it often.

To test for water - put a small amount of any type of dish you can heat up. Heat it up. If it crackles, then you're above the 1%wt point.

Technically - you could heat all the oil up to "boil off" the water. However, that may not be too good inside your tractor.... Just get a mid-grade semi-synthetic or similar and change it often.

If you fix the water ingress issues, get a full synthetic (group II+ and up) and be done with it.
 
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