Electric Impacts

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2


Shall I buy an IR 1/2" TiMax air impact?

Frustrated...


I have no regrets buying mine IR 2135TiMax. Powerful as heck when you keep it well maintained and feed it the right air pressure. Or if you have the dough, the battery version W7150.
 
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
the battery version W7150.


That's what I have... And it cant knock off these seized lugs...
 
What? This is what is being claimed by IR on their website "1100 ft-lb of nut-busting torque". I am not going to ask you how much you weigh but you can do the calculations you had to apply more than 1100 ft-lb of torque to bust those nuts by breaker bar. If that is not the case, get it warranted and replaced. I bet you paid quite a chunk for this device.
 
Another suggestion:- can you buy new nuts? may be the plating on yours have came off?? those seems to be cheap at Costco tire counter. I am strangely attracted to those shiny "candy" :)
 
If your using a 2ft pipe on a 2ft breaker bar and standing on it thats a seriously stuck bolt, possibly out of an 1/2 impacts range regardless of type.

Porsche had a similar issue, this is their TSB with a solution. BMW had a bulletin years ago in the 80's in Germany but it would take forever to dig for it.
The solution was the same although the torque is possibly not the same.

Read the info in the red outline box, disregard any reference to cutting in the TSB.

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technical/Tips/7/MyTip792.htm
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Another suggestion:- can you buy new nuts? may be the plating on yours have came off?? those seems to be cheap at Costco tire counter. I am strangely attracted to those shiny "candy" :)

It sounds like this is a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Another suggestion:- can you buy new nuts? may be the plating on yours have came off?? those seems to be cheap at Costco tire counter. I am strangely attracted to those shiny "candy" :)


It doesn't use nuts.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
What? This is what is being claimed by IR on their website "1100 ft-lb of nut-busting torque". I am not going to ask you how much you weigh but you can do the calculations you had to apply more than 1100 ft-lb of torque to bust those nuts by breaker bar. If that is not the case, get it warranted and replaced. I bet you paid quite a chunk for this device.


At nearly 4 feet and my 250 lb self, its about that torque level. Difference is that Ive generally had to bounce, which augments the force via 9.8 m/s^2.

Is there a way to test max torque from an instrument? Mine is many years old... Batteries hold charge well.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
If your using a 2ft pipe on a 2ft breaker bar and standing on it thats a seriously stuck bolt, possibly out of an 1/2 impacts range regardless of type.

Porsche had a similar issue, this is their TSB with a solution. BMW had a bulletin years ago in the 80's in Germany but it would take forever to dig for it.
The solution was the same although the torque is possibly not the same.

Read the info in the red outline box, disregard any reference to cutting in the TSB.

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technical/Tips/7/MyTip792.htm


Thanks! I see it says to lubricate with that specific oil. I noted in my saab FSM that they state to put oil on the threads and collar of the lug bolts!!!!!
 
You can use that on the collar and a little anti seize on the threads on the Saab, recheck the torque after 60-100 mi especially with aluminum rims.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
What? This is what is being claimed by IR on their website "1100 ft-lb of nut-busting torque". I am not going to ask you how much you weigh but you can do the calculations you had to apply more than 1100 ft-lb of torque to bust those nuts by breaker bar. If that is not the case, get it warranted and replaced. I bet you paid quite a chunk for this device.


Actually I was wrong - I have the older model, the W360, which is 360 lb-ft max.

I dont think Ill buy another, I think Ill invest in the 2135QTiMax. It would only be needed when the plug in (milwaukee) and cordless (IR) cant fit the bill. But in those cases, the $$$$ will be well spent...
 
Look at the AirCat 1150 also. Thats what i went to after the buttons rattled out of my Ti2135 max.
the Ti is a good gun, but i prefer the AirCat.

It does seem to more power, the AirCat removes Honda crank bolts and the Ti didn't.
I say "seem because i am comparing old to new, not an apples to apples comparison, at any rate the price is right and its at least assembled in the USA like the Ti2135.

This seems like a real world example, keep in mind the 1000 is not as strong as the 1100.
Stay away fro the Nitro kitty, its pin and clutch mechanism like the IR W7150, they make a lot of torque right out of the gate and hard to control, thats how they get the torque numbers on the W7150 battery tool.
A twin hammer is the way to go for automotive work.
 
Probably/possibly. With the arrangement he was using, pipe on breaker bar i bet he was close to that.
The impact gun torque numbers are really somewhat a farce, almost like a little 20 gallon oil less Craftsman air compressor with a 5HP 120V motor.
 
Wow, the aircat looks good! $100 less or so on Amazon and still US made. Plus, looks like it pulls a little less air.

I like IR stuff, but for the amount of use Ill put it through, the cost savings is a no brainer. Ill have to order one of these.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Look at the AirCat 1150 also. Thats what i went to after the buttons rattled out of my Ti2135 max.
the Ti is a good gun, but i prefer the AirCat.

It does seem to more power, the AirCat removes Honda crank bolts and the Ti didn't.



The AirCat 1150 is 1295 ft/lbs of torque which is higher than many 3/4" impact wrenches. The Ti2135MAX is 785 ft/lbs.

In reading more about the AirCat 1150 it says the working torque is 900 ft/lbs. I wonder if the 785 measurement for the IR TI2135MAX is max torque or working torque.
 
Last edited:
I don't know, from using these kinds of tools all my life non of the half inch is reaching 600ft-lb real torque in my estimation.
Case in point i have an old US Made IR 231, it is heavy and was only rated IIRC at 450 working torque. Real world it holds it own against almost anything.

The AirCat is definitely stronger but not 700+ pounds stronger.
Maybe someone can post how they get these numbers, they just don't seem to translate into real world performance.
As you can see in the video 446 was all a 900ft-lb rated gun could pull.

IR says this.
Quote:
Since torque capacity is effected by many variables like bolt type and size, thread conditions, air pressure, CFM, etc., a comparison test can be difficult for an end user to replicate. And since there’s currently no industry wide standard for testing or publishing torque ratings it difficult to compare published torque ratings across manufacturers.


I can only compare guns i use on my compressor, same hose, same connector, same psi and cfm.
On this set up the AirCat is stronger than the Ti and the 231. The old 231 is so close to the Ti its hard to tell the difference, note the Ti is old but so is the 231, the 231 has not lost much if any power over the years the Ti has and considerably.

To be fair an inexpensive rebuild kit and buttons will get the Ti running like a champ again but that says a lot for the 231 that has seen the same amount of use and is rock solid (you cannot buy this 231 anymore, the new ones are Chinese).
I use an inline oiler on all air tools so neither has gone short on lube.

For air ratchets and other air tools i use IR, they are great tools! But..
Given the power of the AirCat, the price and the warranty i have to give the nod to it.

49.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
After that I went and retorqued ALL my lug bolts on the car (91 BMW 318i), and I had to use a 24" breaker bar, with 24" of pipe hanging off its end, and me standing on it, caused it eventually to go.

Recently I swapped the tires from my summer tires to my snows. A little late, but life has been hectic. Just a few months, and the lugs were completely seized again. Again, I had to stand on them, and again, my IR electric couldnt get them off.

Shall I buy an IR 1/2" TiMax air impact?

Frustrated...


JHZR2,

Let's take a step back. Perhaps it will be more prudent to solve the lugs seizing issue, than to attack the problem with a more powerful impact. Seems like an overkill to used a 1000+ lbft impact to remove lugs, when most people get by with a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Something is causing the seizing, and it's likely corrosion between the steel lugs and the aluminum on the alloys. One post suggests renewing the lugs, if the plating has worn off. This will be a good start to try and tackle the seizing issue.
 
Originally Posted By: chrome
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
After that I went and retorqued ALL my lug bolts on the car (91 BMW 318i), and I had to use a 24" breaker bar, with 24" of pipe hanging off its end, and me standing on it, caused it eventually to go.

Recently I swapped the tires from my summer tires to my snows. A little late, but life has been hectic. Just a few months, and the lugs were completely seized again. Again, I had to stand on them, and again, my IR electric couldnt get them off.

Shall I buy an IR 1/2" TiMax air impact?

Frustrated...


JHZR2,

Let's take a step back. Perhaps it will be more prudent to solve the lugs seizing issue, than to attack the problem with a more powerful impact. Seems like an overkill to used a 1000+ lbft impact to remove lugs, when most people get by with a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Something is causing the seizing, and it's likely corrosion between the steel lugs and the aluminum on the alloys. One post suggests renewing the lugs, if the plating has worn off. This will be a good start to try and tackle the seizing issue.


I agree. However, this isnt the first place Ive had issues. The differential drain plug on my w123 diesels seem to seize up as well. On top of that, Ive read that using impact is a superior method of removing fasteners because there is far less potential of shear off (so Ive heard, Im no expert).

Im going through the process of why and how do I fix. There is the recommendation of a specific oil mandated by the OEMs, and in the past, a high zinc primer lightly sprayed onto key surfaces was also mentioned. Ill be giving it a try.

But given my need to do some other bigger jobs, like replacing strut mounts and such things, its not a bad time for me to invest in the right tools, regardless...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top