Sounds like there is still air in system.
305 V8 water pump
- Thread starter WA1DH
- Start date
- Status
Your gurgles are still air in the system for sure. Sometimes they can be a bugger to get out, especially if the fill cap on the radiator is not much higher than the rest of the system as air will look for the high ground. I remember my old man would sometime put the car on ramps to help the air get to the top.
I find it odd that you've got air in the heater core. That is one vehicle that I've never had problems bleeding.
Does your radiator have the heater hose return in the side tank? If so, do like I suggested earlier and lower the coolant level in the radiator to just below that point and check for a strong return flow. If you've got that when the engine is hot, then you know you've got good coolant flow/pressure.
As I said, these are usually a very easy system to bleed air from. Once you've got it shook loose, then there is no reason for it to come back. If it does, then it points to a greater issue.
Does your radiator have the heater hose return in the side tank? If so, do like I suggested earlier and lower the coolant level in the radiator to just below that point and check for a strong return flow. If you've got that when the engine is hot, then you know you've got good coolant flow/pressure.
As I said, these are usually a very easy system to bleed air from. Once you've got it shook loose, then there is no reason for it to come back. If it does, then it points to a greater issue.
It has the return on the water pump, not the radiator.
Time for another update.
My 4 cyl Ford Escort blows better heat faster than the truck right now. It's 20 out today, but I would think I should get more than luke warm heat and 150 on the gauge after 15 miles of hard driving (I even held it just under red line up a hill). I suspected something is still not quite right, and popped the hood at idle. I revved it under the hood, and to my surprise, the UPPER radiator hose sucks flat when I rev it! The bottom one seems fine.
As I said before, the upper hose makes a 'thud' feeling every few seconds while running at idle, and boils when I shut it off. It obviously has air in it, but WHY?
I'm thoroughly confused now. I'm going to pull the thermostat out when it cools down and just run it without one to see if that makes a difference. I boiled it to test it and even drilled the hole in it to help bleeding. My radiator cap is new and the reservoir moves between hot and cold levels as it should.
I've never had these issues with any of my cars before. This is driving me nuts.
My 4 cyl Ford Escort blows better heat faster than the truck right now. It's 20 out today, but I would think I should get more than luke warm heat and 150 on the gauge after 15 miles of hard driving (I even held it just under red line up a hill). I suspected something is still not quite right, and popped the hood at idle. I revved it under the hood, and to my surprise, the UPPER radiator hose sucks flat when I rev it! The bottom one seems fine.
As I said before, the upper hose makes a 'thud' feeling every few seconds while running at idle, and boils when I shut it off. It obviously has air in it, but WHY?
I'm thoroughly confused now. I'm going to pull the thermostat out when it cools down and just run it without one to see if that makes a difference. I boiled it to test it and even drilled the hole in it to help bleeding. My radiator cap is new and the reservoir moves between hot and cold levels as it should.
I've never had these issues with any of my cars before. This is driving me nuts.
cracked head or head gasket problem? Also, I only use oem stuff right from the dealer.
The hose should have an internal spring in it so it doesnt suck closed. If there is still air in the system, you can't trust the temp gauge either. Ramping the front end is how I do it on the 528e. I get the LF up in the air and back out the top fan switch on the left tank. Either air or water gushes out. Most pressurized systems need to be bled. Water, fuel, brake fluid. If the system doesn't hold pressure, it will be impossible to bleed. I wouldn't mess with parts , except maybe to check that I put the thermostat in right.
My guess is that a bad head gasket causing is causing your mystery problem. If the leak is small enough the cooling system can still handle the extra heat but keeps adding the air you hear in the heater core. A combustion leak tester would tell you if thats the problem or not.
I think I have a bad thermostat, once again. I pulled it out today, a Stant Superstat I installed on Dec 6th. Here it is after sitting in boiling water for a minute:
It looks like it's moving maybe 1/16"-1/8" when hot. Tell me it's supposed to open more than that...
Now the question is, do I take it back to Advance and get another one (it's under their warranty), or eat the $10 and order an AC Delco OEM one from Rockauto?
I took the truck for a run minus the thermostat, and coolant appears to be flowing normally, with pressure in the hoses and without boiling. Of course it's 20 out and I have no heat and the temp gauge never moves.
It looks like it's moving maybe 1/16"-1/8" when hot. Tell me it's supposed to open more than that...
Now the question is, do I take it back to Advance and get another one (it's under their warranty), or eat the $10 and order an AC Delco OEM one from Rockauto?
I took the truck for a run minus the thermostat, and coolant appears to be flowing normally, with pressure in the hoses and without boiling. Of course it's 20 out and I have no heat and the temp gauge never moves.
Originally Posted By: hsd
My guess is that a bad head gasket causing is causing your mystery problem. If the leak is small enough the cooling system can still handle the extra heat but keeps adding the air you hear in the heater core. A combustion leak tester would tell you if thats the problem or not.
Those engines aren't prone to head gasket problems.
My guess is that a bad head gasket causing is causing your mystery problem. If the leak is small enough the cooling system can still handle the extra heat but keeps adding the air you hear in the heater core. A combustion leak tester would tell you if thats the problem or not.
Those engines aren't prone to head gasket problems.
Return it for store credit
Shell out for the top line premium ACDelco ones on RockAuto. Check for coupon codes and price shop Amazon for the same part #.
Don't deviate from the Recommended temp.
I bought one for my Grand Prix. Even though mine was made by Motorad, it worked and felt a significantly higher quality then local jobber thermostats.
Shell out for the top line premium ACDelco ones on RockAuto. Check for coupon codes and price shop Amazon for the same part #.
Don't deviate from the Recommended temp.
I bought one for my Grand Prix. Even though mine was made by Motorad, it worked and felt a significantly higher quality then local jobber thermostats.
Originally Posted By: WA1DH
Time for another update.
My 4 cyl Ford Escort blows better heat faster than the truck right now. It's 20 out today, but I would think I should get more than luke warm heat and 150 on the gauge after 15 miles of hard driving (I even held it just under red line up a hill). I suspected something is still not quite right, and popped the hood at idle. I revved it under the hood, and to my surprise, the UPPER radiator hose sucks flat when I rev it! The bottom one seems fine.
As I said before, the upper hose makes a 'thud' feeling every few seconds while running at idle, and boils when I shut it off. It obviously has air in it, but WHY?
I'm thoroughly confused now. I'm going to pull the thermostat out when it cools down and just run it without one to see if that makes a difference. I boiled it to test it and even drilled the hole in it to help bleeding. My radiator cap is new and the reservoir moves between hot and cold levels as it should.
I've never had these issues with any of my cars before. This is driving me nuts.
The upper hose goes flat? That seems wrong. I know you verified that you have the right rotation--but as a lark, maybe try the wrong rotation one?
Time for another update.
My 4 cyl Ford Escort blows better heat faster than the truck right now. It's 20 out today, but I would think I should get more than luke warm heat and 150 on the gauge after 15 miles of hard driving (I even held it just under red line up a hill). I suspected something is still not quite right, and popped the hood at idle. I revved it under the hood, and to my surprise, the UPPER radiator hose sucks flat when I rev it! The bottom one seems fine.
As I said before, the upper hose makes a 'thud' feeling every few seconds while running at idle, and boils when I shut it off. It obviously has air in it, but WHY?
I'm thoroughly confused now. I'm going to pull the thermostat out when it cools down and just run it without one to see if that makes a difference. I boiled it to test it and even drilled the hole in it to help bleeding. My radiator cap is new and the reservoir moves between hot and cold levels as it should.
I've never had these issues with any of my cars before. This is driving me nuts.
The upper hose goes flat? That seems wrong. I know you verified that you have the right rotation--but as a lark, maybe try the wrong rotation one?
- Status
