Raybestos remanufactured calipers

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Hi all,

After my break job this weekend, I noticed that one of my calipers isnt working properly. its not engaging and disengaging at same rate, causing abnormal wear and lowering acceleration.

Amazon has Raybestos re-manufactured calipers for 37 bucks.... that seem like a good deal to me. Last time I bought a caliper from Autozone for a diffrent car cost me 70 bucks after core fee. I figured I ask here to see if I should go for it.

The problem isnt something I want to address unless I find a cheap quality part.

Thanks
 
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Both raybestos and tokico rebuilds are pretty good.

But... it sounds more like a deteriorated brake line yo me. When the insides go to [censored] they have a tendency to behave like that.
 
Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat
Both raybestos and tokico rebuilds are pretty good.

But... it sounds more like a deteriorated brake line yo me. When the insides go to [censored] they have a tendency to behave like that.


That's great advice. ^

I'd try a cheap brake hose, or better yet, a good one, before I'd install a "cheap" rebuilt. I understand completely the various reasons you may be going that way, but cheap rebuilts are a bit of a dice roll, be ready to do the job twice if you go that route. Then again it's possible to get a bad high dollar rebuilt, too.
 
I put rebuilt Raybestos rear calipers on my Accord a year and half ago and 17K ago. One is seized and the other is sticking. I am getting warranty replacements, but still, they did not hold up well. If you need a caliper, they have a good warranty (3 years/36K), but I don't think the rebuild quality is all that good.
 
I got some Raybestos rebuilt calipers and they are fine. RockAuto was cheaper as they took the core back. However for some vehicles the core is less than the postage to send it back and in that case Amazon may be cheaper.
 
It might be fine, but check the length of the bolts that come with reman calipers. The [censored] Cardone rear calipers I got for my Celica had bolts slightly too long, scoring both rotors.
 
ALWAYS replace the rubber flexible hose when you replace the caliper. This may have been the issue to begin with. It's a pretty common problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
ALWAYS replace the rubber flexible hose when you replace the caliper. This may have been the issue to begin with. It's a pretty common problem.


That sounds like a good idea until the metal brake line snaps because the flex hose is rusted to it.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
ALWAYS replace the rubber flexible hose when you replace the caliper. This may have been the issue to begin with. It's a pretty common problem.


That sounds like a good idea until the metal brake line snaps because the flex hose is rusted to it.


Well it's sure as heck better than having problems down the line (or right away) because you didn't.

Besides, very rarely have I run into one I absolutely couldn't get- and that's living in the rust belt too.
 
Hi all,

Thanks for the input I dont know that much about breaks, but from principle i know its the piston, while i was using clamp it took alot more force and the plastic boot around the pistol just didnt look right.

about 20k ago I was told the caliper was broken, of course they wanted close to 500 bucks for it so I said the [censored] with them.


Going to try and grab a centric for less than 50 bucks shipped to me. Centric parts seem to be of great bang for the buck overall. Really rather not have to deal with warranty exchanges as I am a student and my car is my life.

I feel incompetent about the break lines, going to watch some videos before committing to that.

THANKS!
 
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I am also looking into napa parts, they are known for good parts.

Alot of people seem to have hit or miss with these things, should I just leave it on? Its not a big problem, and I am starting school next week and wont have that much time to go back n forth with this issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Voltmaster
Hi all,

Thanks for the input I dont know that much about breaks, but from principle i know its the piston, while i was using clamp it took alot more force and the plastic boot around the pistol just didnt look right.

about 20k ago I was told the caliper was broken, of course they wanted close to 500 bucks for it so I said the [censored] with them.


Going to try and grab a centric for less than 50 bucks shipped to me. Centric parts seem to be of great bang for the buck overall. Really rather not have to deal with warranty exchanges as I am a student and my car is my life.

I feel incompetent about the break lines, going to watch some videos before committing to that.

THANKS!


If you break your brakes you are in trouble.
 
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Would I change it...yes.

Is it a safety issue if you don't? Yeah

Are you liable if you kill someone because of laziness...yes.

My money is on the brake line. Rebuilding the caliper takes all of ten minutes....
 
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