how important are miles when car shoppping

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Bought my sidekick abused at 160k. For 2 grand. Dumped 3k into.suspension and tires. Another grand into parts and a upgraded radio.

Decoded to replace that motor with a dead cylinder at 200k. Another 2k.

8k for.a go anywhere full frame 4x4 suv that gets 22+ MPG and is engineered for the third world and will NEVER leave you stranded. Yeah. If I could find that new at twice the price ID buy it.

Mileage means less than maintenance.

If you do your own work...mechanically [censored] used cars with good paint jobs are the way to go.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Doog

So you are advocating to pay up to $6000 annually plus higher insurance? Not a very good recommendation. If you put $2-3000 in annual maintenance in a 150k car it will most likely go another 150k and you don't suffer the additional cost of the depreciation. My best bet is a Certified Used car with 30-40k on it and a 100k warranty. Then drive it to 200k and sell it. If you do the math on that combo you will see it is the best of both worlds.


Yes.

The opportunity cost should be a serious consideration. Car payments are inexpensive compared to mortgage or rent payments. If you are able to eliminate a certain amount of uncertainty from your life rather easily, why wouldn't you?

If I had to tell my manager that I had to take off an hour to drop off the car at the shop every month or 2, that would become an issue. Likewise, if I hurt myself while working on the car during a weekend, that would be even worse. The key is to have a transportation solution that has the least disruption.

Depending on what your life and job situation is, trying to find the lowest dollar option for transportation may not be the most practical option. Look, those who have been on this site for a while know that I used to advocate for fixing older cars and keeping them near perfect, but the time spent is better spent elsewhere.


I thought ram_man was trying to go to school to be a mechanic. It'd be foolish for him to pay $80/hr to skip working on it himself at a cost to himself of < $25/hr-- what a shop would pay him.

If one mail ordered parts or was able to pass a parts store on the way somewhere else, the ability to schedule repairs some evening/weekend at home would actually be more convenient than bringing it somewhere that's only open when their office is open... provided one's sweat is "free".
 
I have about 190K on my 325i, and after the most recentmmajor work (the full suspension upgrade), it drives better than new. Engine is in completely perfect condition, with all cylinders having compression results within a 2-point range, and visual inspection during VCG replacement showed a completely spotless valvetrain.

I document every single thing done to my vehicles each in its own binder, the thinnest is about 2.5" thick and the thickest (my 328, for reasons you may know) is 4 binders full.
That's every receipt/report/service order/etc, pictures taken of new components upgrades before going on car, of the old ones still on the car, and the old next to the new off the car.

I also keep Excel sheets, multiple for each vehicle, to track maintenance, repairs, modifications, etc. I print out the latest filled page as completed.


I know that I can, and do, ask a premium for my cars when selling. OK, well, many times it's because the vehicle itself is rare, or is a rare configuration on an already desirable vehicle, ie a recently sold genuine Alpina B6 Bi-Turbo (Grey market import, low mileage, all original numbers, full records, and one of two in the color, not to mention that every Alpina item was intact which is nearly impossible to find outside of museum pieces). Over 20yr old, $72k in records from the SINGLE PO and myself, one of only (literally) a half dozen or so I the country, and the lowest mileage one that is driveable.
I had to sit firm for 5 months, asking $45k, and got a lot of ridiculously low offers. It seems like a lot, and it IS a lot of money, but people also pay more forgGrey market Nissan Skylines that aren't special cars anywhere much less where they're made, whereas this is a car rarer than a Ferrari Enzo.
It sold to a collector who has an impressive garage of rare BMW's, and it has since been sold back to Alpina (at the exact same price he bought it from me) for their own historical collection.

Since I buy cars, and sell cars, pretty often, I firmly believe that it's dishonest, no different than fraud, to sell a car as being in excellent condition if it's not, and for people like me who search for rare cars, it's ONLY AS GOOD AS YOU CAN PROVE, and that proof is in documentation.
Example: when looking for an M3, I had trouble finding the color combo I wanted. Eventually found a few, ranging from 48k to 129k miles, and from $18.5k to $26k in price. The 48k miles car was what I ended up buying, but it was owned by a fellow BMWCCA racer I know and I know for a fact it was never abused, tracked, or maintained in any way other than religiously.
The most expensive car, however, was the highest mileage. Now, all of these are Alpine White over Imola '06 Coupes w 6MT and Competition Package; rare combo, and I ignored cars w modifications (I always do, with some exception).
The $18.5k car had 88k miles, zero documentation, and the owner didn't seem to know jack about the car. The $26k car had documentation from day one of its nearly 130k miles, the owner was incredibly knowledgeable and willing to accommodate my need for proof of condition, had UOA done every 2nd change (every 15k) since new and had all the results, and so forth.
The car with nearly 130k miles was the second best driving car I found by far, I mean it wasn't even close.
The 88k mile car and a 59k mile car ($24.5k) were the worst, and just cursory inspection and I knew that I'd be spending a minimum of $7.5-10 THOUSAND dollars just to get them back into shape, which is insane. The owners were not flexible on price, and said that maintenance records "you can get what you need on carfax"....

I ended up sending my friend to the guy with the 130k mile car, and he bought it the next day.
It now has 183k and has been every bit as reliable as mine, which has over 100k fewer miles.

The other two mentioned come up for sale often, and are on their 7th and 9th owners. Every time they come up is 1k miles before a MAJOR service, yet it's never done...


So, I guess my point is...
Would you rather buy a car, at a premium regardless of miles, from a highly knowledgeable owner with insanely extensive history/documentation of the vehicle...
Or would you rather pay 15-25 percent less, but have little to no history of work, essentially gambling on the less expensive upfront costs being less than the guaranteed immediate maintenence costs?

I know my answer...
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
I wouldn't buy a vehicle with spaceship mileage unless it was very cheap. For $5k your one transmission and a set of struts away from an $8k vehicle.

Considering said vehicle can be purchased for just over $20k new your paying a large premium for the most maintenance intensive period of the cars life.

The last 170k mile car I bought was in HS and I paid $300 for it. If something broke I junked it.


+1000

Paying $5k for a car with 150k miles is pure lunacy!
 
Camrys seem to be valued high(er) by their owners...somewhat unrealistically...

That said, OP should be able to find an 03-06 Camry for $4-6k WITH 100k miles or so...later model years have ABS/keyless entry, added value features that make the car worth more....85k miles is a BIG difference in terms of major part-repair/replacement costs...

Re: HTSS/lexus
....valve cover gaskets should be replaced when you replace spark plugs...more efficient labor cost-wise...
 
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It depends upon the car and how it was used and maintained.
I sold a 207K Accord stick last fall that needed a few minor things, like its second timing belt service, a brake line and lower spark plug tube o-rings.
I wouldn't have hesitated to drive that car anywhere after doing this work.
Our '99 Accord stick was wrecked around the same time with about 175K.
That car still drove pretty much as new.
It ran well, shifted nicely and certainly didn't need any suspension work.
Either car would have made a good daily driver for another few years.
The thing is that you as a buyer would have no way of knowing this. I would have been truthful in describing the history of both cars and shown you the very good recent UOAs from each.
How much should you trust the average seller?
Keep in mind that the average seller may be entirely honest but may simply not know enough to understand where the car is mechnically and may also not recognize the symptoms of needed work.
OTOH, if the owner cared enough to keep the car clean in and out, then he probably also attended to needed maintenance and minor repairs.
 
I've owned several cars/trucks well into 200000's. Bought a 92 Toyota pickup plain jane new and a coworker has it now nearing 300,000 miles. Doog & The Critic both make good points and there are indeed 2 sides to this question. High mileage vehicles ain't for everyone. Age of vehicle may be more important than miles. Your situation and basic mechanical knowledge have to factor into your decision. $5000 IS on the high side for a basic ride with that kind of mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
185k?

I would not even consider a car with over 75k miles, myself.

150k is usually when most cars are towards the end of their life.


Same here but I am more a 50K max guy IF I were to buy used( which I don't ). 175K-185K not on your life however.
 
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Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: DirtyMoe21
What kinds of cars?


camrys and accords mostly
Im looking to spend 5000


I don't care what the car is if you are spending $5K or less and it is up near 200K I hope you have a lot of additional cash available for all the repairs you will face.
 
I don't know if anyone is advocating paying 5000 bucks for a car with that many miles on it. I sure would not unless it was a diesel truck.
I was just saying cars can last that long. Now if the OP can find a car he likes with those kind a miles it should be a deal 2500 dollars or less.
 
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Based on what? These are fairly "cheap" cars that were not overbuilt. Even if a vehicle is well-maintained, it does wear out eventually. 150k is nearing that point.
Woh, how long have you been here TheCritic? Do you know what percentages of cars driven by BITOGer are over 150K miles? I am not a betting man but my guess is over 50% of the vehicles owned by BITOGers ae over 150K miles. Your perspective is completely wrong.
 
If you have need to have absolute reliable "bet your job" vehicle on every single working day, you are much better off leasing the cheapest vehicle that you can get. That way your chances of never breaking down during the lease period are small.

Then I am with you TheCritic. Old cars are for people who can afford to call in "car problem" and still keep the job and/or have alternate means of transport when the vehicle breaks down. As you said, lease on cheap car is lot less than the mortgage.
 
Originally Posted By: typ901
Maintenance history is what I look for. Miles sure, but condition of the vehicle is my first priority.


This.

With a $5k budget, base your purchase on 3 things: condition, condition, condition.

If you have the time, wait for one with a stack of maintenance receipts. In any case, a pre-purchase inspection from a trusted independent mechanic is worth every dime.
 
For me, maintenance done on the car is more important than mileage.

I'd rather buy a 200k mile car with a stack of maintenance records than a 90k mile car with original drive train fluids in it.

My Jeep had only 84k when I bought it, and soon after I found out that the previous owner probably changed the oil a few times and that was it. Every single fluid that came out of it was nasty.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Doog

So you are advocating to pay up to $6000 annually plus higher insurance? Not a very good recommendation. If you put $2-3000 in annual maintenance in a 150k car it will most likely go another 150k and you don't suffer the additional cost of the depreciation. My best bet is a Certified Used car with 30-40k on it and a 100k warranty. Then drive it to 200k and sell it. If you do the math on that combo you will see it is the best of both worlds.


Yes.

The opportunity cost should be a serious consideration. Car payments are inexpensive compared to mortgage or rent payments. If you are able to eliminate a certain amount of uncertainty from your life rather easily, why wouldn't you?

If I had to tell my manager that I had to take off an hour to drop off the car at the shop every month or 2, that would become an issue. Likewise, if I hurt myself while working on the car during a weekend, that would be even worse. The key is to have a transportation solution that has the least disruption.

Depending on what your life and job situation is, trying to find the lowest dollar option for transportation may not be the most practical option. Look, those who have been on this site for a while know that I used to advocate for fixing older cars and keeping them near perfect, but the time spent is better spent elsewhere.


I generally agree. I have daily driven very old 20-25 year old cars with almost 300k miles on them. But they were in good shape and reliable because I went threw them, also because Mercedes just builds a good car, especially of that vintage.

Having said that most people who DD classic vehicles its not their only vehicle. They forget to mention that! If the old 300SD gets cranky at 7am on a Tuesday morning they have another one to get into or a 2013 Acura sitting next to it!

If you go to an old car forum and see people DD older vehicles they either have a fleet so at least one is running, or they have a late model car in their somewhere.

Also what they gloss over is at that point it becomes a hobby vehicle and requires a great amount of time. If you enjoy it and I did that's fantastic, just like your detailing its what you enjoy.

The flip side is you have people with more time than money and they just can't afford much so they make do with older cars.

IMHO cars are a waste of time, so they are either DD and I demand a certain level of reliability out of them, or they are toys and at that point it doesn't matter. Its like guys who try to run old equipment and trucks, all the do is blow pumps and break and lose them money.


If I had only $5k to spend on a vehicle (been their) I'd buy the newest, cleanest whatever I could find. Run it cheaply, and concentrate on improving my financial situation so when it blows I wouldn't have to look at 170k mile old cars anymore. My 2 cents.
 
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What I find funny about this thread is...take note of what brands of cars the naysayers in here have in their signature.

All but a very small number are driving vehicles I wouldn't consider all that reliable when NEW much less over 100k.

ID put a first Gen scion xb auto with 150k miles abstract maintenance records against ANY new car for a longevity/reliability test.

Some cars are built to deal with abuse. Others...others require love and teender care all the time. Some are worth it...Alphas for example. Others aren't worth the fluids going into their poorly built components.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: DirtyMoe21
What kinds of cars?


camrys and accords mostly
Im looking to spend 5000


I don't care what the car is if you are spending $5K or less and it is up near 200K I hope you have a lot of additional cash available for all the repairs you will face.


Assumes facts not in evidence!
 
Now i can only speak from what i own. and i own both the camry and accord.

camry 2007 4cyl

accord 2005 v6 Ex-l

would i buy these models & years again. NO WAY IN [censored]! both have been maintenance hogs. the toyota big time! both cars have 73k-77k miles. had i known about the honda transmission issues before had i would not have purchased it. My honda has nickel and dimed me pretty hard.. im not bashing.. just telling my lil story..

http://www.carcomplaints.com/worst_vehicles/
 
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