I wonder when my warranty will be over if i can use dino oil instead of the dexos 1 rip off...
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
Conventional instead of Dexos1 ??
- Thread starter wolf_06
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Absolutely, yes, you could use regular dino post-warranty if you wanted to.
Originally Posted By: wolf_06
I wonder when my warranty will be over if i can use dino oil instead of the dexos 1 rip off...
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
Your particular engine, yeah, regular old conventional is fine.
My engine needs something that protects the turbo better, so for a turbo Cruze dexos1 is absolutely needed.
I wonder when my warranty will be over if i can use dino oil instead of the dexos 1 rip off...
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
Your particular engine, yeah, regular old conventional is fine.
My engine needs something that protects the turbo better, so for a turbo Cruze dexos1 is absolutely needed.
Originally Posted By: tig1
You can do anything you want, but why downgrade your oil on an expensive car with a turbo?
Check OP's sig. He has the 1.8L non-turbo
OP, yes you probably can. Remember that even "dino" is actually a syn blend most of the time.
One more thing to look out for, though, is the Napa synthetic sales that happen a few times a year for $3.49 or so. It is rebranded synpower, and it meets dexos standards. For the price of dino.
You can do anything you want, but why downgrade your oil on an expensive car with a turbo?
Check OP's sig. He has the 1.8L non-turbo
OP, yes you probably can. Remember that even "dino" is actually a syn blend most of the time.
One more thing to look out for, though, is the Napa synthetic sales that happen a few times a year for $3.49 or so. It is rebranded synpower, and it meets dexos standards. For the price of dino.
Yes try PYB
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I would stick with a Dexos rated oil...
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Lots of ppl use conventional in turbo engines with zero issues. Just employ a conservative oci and go API SN (partly developed with turbo protection in mind). Especially if your turbo is water cooled. Now, if my car required dexos1, I would probably stick with it, and there is no question that synthetics pull ahead, the longer the oci.
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
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The Pennzoil dexos1 blend at the Atlantic Wholesale Club shouldn't be much more than the equivalent conventional, if their pricing is anything like the RCWC's pricing here.
If you were in the states i would say pay the extra couple of bucks but i know you can end up spending a lot more for Dexos over conventional where you live.
Originally Posted By: wolf_06
I wonder when my warranty will be over if i can use dino oil instead of the dexos 1 rip off...
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
K. I will refer you to dnewtons articles on the home page. Read and absorb them.
When oil goes into your sump it applies an anti-wear layer to all the moving parts and as a result wear lowers as miles accumulate.
When you change your oil the new oil strips the old oils anti-wear layer and applies its own. During this process wear rates increase significantly until the new anti-wear layer is in place.
So changing the oil more often repeats this process and as a result you get more wear.
For example I'm using ultra on a 10000 mile/16000km oil change interval. You are doing 5000km intervals,which are absurd with any of today's conventionals but that's another discussion.
Your engine will apply and strip its anti-wear layer 3 times where mine will only happen once,so my example will end up with less wear over a period of 300k kms.
And in 5000kms my chargers oil won't even be black yet. That's only 3000 miles.
In the 70s when engine oil was barely refined and cat litter was used to separate the crude's components well then yeah a 3000 mile interval sounds about right but with what's available today a 5000km interval is absurd at the very least.
Heck Dnewton is running a 15000 mile interval on conventional and a single filter in his villager and his used oil analysis show the oil isn't yet completely depleted.
FX is running a 22000 mile interval on M1 AFE and his used oil analysis show nothing abnormal,so you'll understand why even considering that type of interval isn't wise.
Why not do like every single other bitoger does and buy a few jugs when they go on sale.
I've been able to get ultra for 28 a jug,platinum for 23 a jug,Quaker state ultimate durability(and even dexos)for 23 a jugs.
All those prices are less than conventional oils regular price and they are 10000 mile/16000km drain capable.
In the end you'd get less wear with less maintenance and less stress on our depleting environmental resources so its a win/win/win right.
Try reading the articles on the front page first. Its a start. Once you've got them understood I hope you'll see the er' of your ways.
Or not.
I wonder when my warranty will be over if i can use dino oil instead of the dexos 1 rip off...
Would do the good old 5000km oci which i beleive is best.
K. I will refer you to dnewtons articles on the home page. Read and absorb them.
When oil goes into your sump it applies an anti-wear layer to all the moving parts and as a result wear lowers as miles accumulate.
When you change your oil the new oil strips the old oils anti-wear layer and applies its own. During this process wear rates increase significantly until the new anti-wear layer is in place.
So changing the oil more often repeats this process and as a result you get more wear.
For example I'm using ultra on a 10000 mile/16000km oil change interval. You are doing 5000km intervals,which are absurd with any of today's conventionals but that's another discussion.
Your engine will apply and strip its anti-wear layer 3 times where mine will only happen once,so my example will end up with less wear over a period of 300k kms.
And in 5000kms my chargers oil won't even be black yet. That's only 3000 miles.
In the 70s when engine oil was barely refined and cat litter was used to separate the crude's components well then yeah a 3000 mile interval sounds about right but with what's available today a 5000km interval is absurd at the very least.
Heck Dnewton is running a 15000 mile interval on conventional and a single filter in his villager and his used oil analysis show the oil isn't yet completely depleted.
FX is running a 22000 mile interval on M1 AFE and his used oil analysis show nothing abnormal,so you'll understand why even considering that type of interval isn't wise.
Why not do like every single other bitoger does and buy a few jugs when they go on sale.
I've been able to get ultra for 28 a jug,platinum for 23 a jug,Quaker state ultimate durability(and even dexos)for 23 a jugs.
All those prices are less than conventional oils regular price and they are 10000 mile/16000km drain capable.
In the end you'd get less wear with less maintenance and less stress on our depleting environmental resources so its a win/win/win right.
Try reading the articles on the front page first. Its a start. Once you've got them understood I hope you'll see the er' of your ways.
Or not.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you were in the states i would say pay the extra couple of bucks but i know you can end up spending a lot more for Dexos over conventional where you live.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you were in the states i would say pay the extra couple of bucks but i know you can end up spending a lot more for Dexos over conventional where you live.
Not really. Qsud which has the dexos label can be had on rollback for 22-24 a jug. Castrol's dexos stuff can be found for under 25 a jug.
I'm confused as to how its a rip off when its cheaper than conventional regular prices and can go at least twice as long and in the op's case over 3x as long.
If you were in the states i would say pay the extra couple of bucks but i know you can end up spending a lot more for Dexos over conventional where you live.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you were in the states i would say pay the extra couple of bucks but i know you can end up spending a lot more for Dexos over conventional where you live.
Not really. Qsud which has the dexos label can be had on rollback for 22-24 a jug. Castrol's dexos stuff can be found for under 25 a jug.
I'm confused as to how its a rip off when its cheaper than conventional regular prices and can go at least twice as long and in the op's case over 3x as long.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Clevy,
If we were discussing a MPI vehicle, I would agree 100%.
I think the issue is that with the d.i. engine UOA's we have seen, dilution has become an issue as soon as 4k miles no matter the oil. Granted, its not every d.i. engine, but definitely most. Folks equate dilution with wear (how much of this dilution is detrimental is yet to be seen). Because of this, d.i. owners are tending to error on the side of caution when it comes to oci. Heck even my owners manual calls for 3k mile oci in severe conditions and 5k in normal. A waste for me, is using a syn for only 3k miles as that is the oci my conditions call for. The OLM in GM vehicles just seems to compound the issue from what im reading, since its advising one thing yet dilution found in uoa's (and ocd) is advising another.
Plus, for some it isnt time wasted and the used oil isn't poured down a storm drane, its recycled.
Not an expert, just my 2 cents.
If we were discussing a MPI vehicle, I would agree 100%.
I think the issue is that with the d.i. engine UOA's we have seen, dilution has become an issue as soon as 4k miles no matter the oil. Granted, its not every d.i. engine, but definitely most. Folks equate dilution with wear (how much of this dilution is detrimental is yet to be seen). Because of this, d.i. owners are tending to error on the side of caution when it comes to oci. Heck even my owners manual calls for 3k mile oci in severe conditions and 5k in normal. A waste for me, is using a syn for only 3k miles as that is the oci my conditions call for. The OLM in GM vehicles just seems to compound the issue from what im reading, since its advising one thing yet dilution found in uoa's (and ocd) is advising another.
Plus, for some it isnt time wasted and the used oil isn't poured down a storm drane, its recycled.
Not an expert, just my 2 cents.
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Wonder why these gasser D.I. engines are experiencing the dilution issues. Diesels have been D.I. for a considerable amount of time and rarely have any problem with dilution. And it isn't like D.I. is new technology. Not saying it doesn't happen, just trying to figure out why it would be.
Originally Posted By: wemay
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
As for Dexos, no GM vehicle gets Dexos in my shop unless the customer requests it, and yes we do offer it to the customer before using our bulk semi-syn. We just don't push it if there is a cost objection to an $80 oil change. Since NY doesn't require that we list the oil we use on the repair order, no GM dealer could know it wasn't a Dexos approved oil. I also don't note that they declined OEM approved oil.
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
As for Dexos, no GM vehicle gets Dexos in my shop unless the customer requests it, and yes we do offer it to the customer before using our bulk semi-syn. We just don't push it if there is a cost objection to an $80 oil change. Since NY doesn't require that we list the oil we use on the repair order, no GM dealer could know it wasn't a Dexos approved oil. I also don't note that they declined OEM approved oil.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: salv
Originally Posted By: wemay
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
Salv,
My quick ref guide makes no mention of ACEA (or I don't see it, lol). I'm actually reading it right now. Maybe it does for other models with this engine, but not for the SFS 2.0T. It also states that it is not a replacement for the OM. ARGH!
You are on point with the OCI.
Originally Posted By: wemay
For us Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T owners, Hyundai doesn't even require SN/GF-5, only SM/GF-4 and synthetics isnt mentioned in the OM nor used with the maint pkg oil changes unless you pay extra.
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
Salv,
My quick ref guide makes no mention of ACEA (or I don't see it, lol). I'm actually reading it right now. Maybe it does for other models with this engine, but not for the SFS 2.0T. It also states that it is not a replacement for the OM. ARGH!
You are on point with the OCI.
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: salv
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
Ok Salv,
You got me thinking so i went to WM and began reading the back of bottles. I ended up buying VML blend. Reason? It has higher specs than what's recommended by hyundai, SN/ILSAC GF-5 and Includes ACEA A1/A5. It was only $16 and Valvoline advises it is absolutely acceptable in new engines. Best of all worlds.
If you check your quick reference guide for oil type, Hyundai states the preferred oil to be ACEA A5 or A3 rated 5w30, most of which are full synthetic in the US. They do state that it is acceptable to substitute any current SM/SN, GF-4/GF-5 oil. Always follow severe service on a Hyundai GDI turbo motor.
Ok Salv,
You got me thinking so i went to WM and began reading the back of bottles. I ended up buying VML blend. Reason? It has higher specs than what's recommended by hyundai, SN/ILSAC GF-5 and Includes ACEA A1/A5. It was only $16 and Valvoline advises it is absolutely acceptable in new engines. Best of all worlds.
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