Mobil 1 Extended Perf 5w20 in 2014 Fiesta ST

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Messages
9
Location
IL
I plan on using M1 5w20 EP in my 2014 Fiesta ST with the 1.6 Ecoboost. My concern is that the engine specs 5w20 semi synthetic at a 10k OCI.

I am concerned about heat and wear with a small displacement, turbo, DI, VVT engine.

My driving is 10 miles each way (magic number) with 50% city/50% highway, and occasional long trips. I plan on a 5k OCI with an L20195 purolator (factory spec is tiny fl910s)

Will running 5w20 M1 EP/L20195 protect my engine/turbo? I cannot seem to find TEOST results for the 5w20.

I know the 0w20 was exempted from the GF5 TEOST test because it couldnt pass.

I was looking at HTO-06 certified oils and they all fall in the 5w30 viscosity.

Thinking about using the 5w30; however, there is no mention in the USA manual regarding this; however, in the EU manual, 5w30 is allowed.
Thoughts?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
If your engine calls for 5-20 then M1 5-20EP is fine. Also M1 5-20 or M1 0-20.

I would definitely agree if it were a PI/NA/non VCT engine. After ford's specification debacle on the ecoboost in the F150, I am not sure I can trust the engineers.

After all, 10k OCI on a DI/Turbo/VVT motor with a 4 quart sump on semi syn, is also specified
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffry
Originally Posted By: tig1
If your engine calls for 5-20 then M1 5-20EP is fine. Also M1 5-20 or M1 0-20.

I would definitely agree if it were a PI/NA/non VCT engine. After ford's specification debacle on the ecoboost in the F150, I am not sure I can trust the engineers.

After all, 10k OCI on a DI/Turbo/VVT motor with a 4 quart sump on semi syn, is also specified


What debacle?
 
In the Focus ST, Ford actually requires an oil meeting WSS-M2C946-A (certain 5w30s). I would assume the same requirement applies on yours, but check the owner's manual.
 
That Mobil 1 EP will definitely work in that application. Decent price at Wal mart. Use without hesitation.
 
These small 4 cylinder ecoboosts have not shown to have major fuel dilution problems and are easier on the oil than earlier ecoboosts. The Turbos are water cooled so that greatly reduces the stress on the oil. The turbos and DI aren't much of an issue on these engines. Those ecoboost can do a 10K OCI without a problem. Now the 3.5L ecoboost, it also specs a 10K but with 5w30, it destroys the oil but that has not show any negative effect, yet.

Your choice of 5w20 M1 EP will provide you with excellent protection for that 10K OCI if you choose to go that long.
 
Quote:
After ford's specification debacle on the ecoboost in the F150, I am not sure I can trust the engineers.


What Ecoboost debacle? Please clarify.

I have owned two of the ecoboost engines and have had no issues with either of them.
 
Last edited:
Why not just run Motorcraft semi or full synthetic?

Its good oil and its what Ford produces.

Also Ford has had VCT engines running 5w-30 since 1997. I would recommends 0w just for less stress on the system during cold start up. I know that on past systems it was oil driven, I'm not sure if it still is or not.

I ran two VCT I4 motors for over 7 years and neither had an issue with 5w-30 or 5w-20.
 
Last edited:
Got mine in November.. Did 2 "flush out" O/C's at 1k & 2k miles respectively with Motorcraft 5W20. Although I'm a big Mobil1 fan, I think I am going to stick with Motorcraft oil & filter on the ST @ 5k intervals. You can pick up oil & filter for 20 bucks at WalMart. Cheap DIY.

My suggestions for your first o/c..
1. Use the OEM 910S. The filter is tucked up around a few hoses & a longer filter makes it that much harder. There is a spring clamp on one of heat exchanger hoses that must be spun around. Do it & you will gain about 50% more filter access clearance. The factory filter is on wicked tight! Plan on a fight! The filter is mounted dead horizontal. I hate dry filter installs on turbos. Add about 3oz of oil to the filter & let the paper absorb the oil while you are draining. Spin the filter on & the oil light will go out instantly.
2.The dipstick is near impossible to read. The bullet shape has no indentations to fill with oil to get a visual reading. Use an automatic punch or a small drill bit to create some oil voids on the dipstick.

When I figure out how to add an image, I'll post it.

Hope this helps!
 
Originally Posted By: BTCCA4
Got mine in November.. Did 2 "flush out" O/C's at 1k & 2k miles respectively with Motorcraft 5W20. Although I'm a big Mobil1 fan, I think I am going to stick with Motorcraft oil & filter on the ST @ 5k intervals. You can pick up oil & filter for 20 bucks at WalMart. Cheap DIY.

My suggestions for your first o/c..
1. Use the OEM 910S. The filter is tucked up around a few hoses & a longer filter makes it that much harder. There is a spring clamp on one of heat exchanger hoses that must be spun around. Do it & you will gain about 50% more filter access clearance. The factory filter is on wicked tight! Plan on a fight! The filter is mounted dead horizontal. I hate dry filter installs on turbos. Add about 3oz of oil to the filter & let the paper absorb the oil while you are draining. Spin the filter on & the oil light will go out instantly.
2.The dipstick is near impossible to read. The bullet shape has no indentations to fill with oil to get a visual reading. Use an automatic punch or a small drill bit to create some oil voids on the dipstick.

When I figure out how to add an image, I'll post it.

Hope this helps!


Already did the first OC at ~1500 miles prior to posting this thread. I used OE Motorcraft semi syn which will be run to 5000 miles and a purolator L20195. The OE filter was torqued to yield :p.

Reading fresh 5w20 off the stick is a pain in the butt. I used the dry crank (Flood clear) method to get oil pressure into the filter.

1. Hold clutch and gas to the floor
2. press start button and behold dry cranking
3. after 5 seconds release foot off gas
4. car will start

The car holds exactly 5 quarts with the L20195
smile.gif


I am going synthetic simply for the peace of mind and the fact that the NOACK/SAPS levels are lower than the semi-syn.

It is also wicked cheap at advance auto right now (buy 5 qts and pick out most expensive filter that M1 makes, return to pep boys for store credit to use when they run M1 on special) comes out to ~4 dollars a qt.

Thanks!
 
I agree it makes sense to be cautious with a turbocharged DI engine, especially one that doesn't have a ton of real-world exposure.

The oils you mentioned will be fine, but you may also want to consider Pennzoil Ultra. The benefit of this oil in your application is its very low Noack value, made possible by Gas-to-Liquid base stocks.

There's considerable discussion that Ultra and Pennzoil Platinum may be combined into a single oil, but it would still have the GTL base stock and low Noack.
 
" I used the dry crank (Flood clear) method to get oil pressure into the filter.

1. Hold clutch and gas to the floor
2. press start button and behold dry cranking
3. after 5 seconds release foot off gas
4. car will start"

Does this work on other cars (with FI?)
 
Originally Posted By: datech
" I used the dry crank (Flood clear) method to get oil pressure into the filter.

1. Hold clutch and gas to the floor
2. press start button and behold dry cranking
3. after 5 seconds release foot off gas
4. car will start"

Does this work on other cars (with FI?)


This works on most drive by wire cars (as long as there is no throttle cable)
 
Originally Posted By: stranger706
We're gonna need to see the car before giving any oil recommendations.
cool.gif



FINNNNNNNEEEE

CAM00147.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top