Throwout Bearing/Grease Question

[panthermike]

Hey guys,

Started getting the infamous throwout bearing noise Mustang's are famous for shortly after purchasing the Mach 1. It's now getting pretty bad when cold, so I'm going to change it out. Since the trans has to come out, I'm also going to change the pilot bearing, clutch fork/pivot stud, and clutch.

My question is grease related. The plan was to put a small amount of grease on the TOB, pilot bearing, clutch fork, etc. Plan on using the Red Line CV2 grease. This is a common issue on these cars, and I'm trying to make the TOB last as long as possible. The throwout and pilot bearing both came with a light coating of light blue grease on them already. I know the CV2 isn't compatible with many greases.

Should I clean out the grease that came on them and use the CV2? Or just leave it alone and use the CV2 on the clutch fork?

 

[Quest]

I thought most of the throwout bearings grease are packed/self-sealed and cannot be taken apart for re-greasing/repacking?

The only parts that can be lubricated are the fork tips (where the bearing pawls meet) and the bearing inner race (where it rides on the input shaft housing part)....

Q.

 

[panthermike]

Sorry I didn't specify, I'm just talking about the inner race and the face of the bearing(as recommended by "Late Model Restoration"), not the inside. That is pre-greased I believe.

 

[Quest]

I'd typically use high moly grease on that part and also the fork contact part (or they call it the "prawls", etc.

Been doing that too all the Japanese MT vehicles I'd serviced so far: Suzukis, Mitsu, Toy, Honda (in particular), Nissan, Mazda B3/B6, etc.

That's just me though...Honda factory manual calls for extremely high temp urea grease on that part.

Q.

 

[panthermike]

Ok thanks. If I remove the old grease, what's best, wd40?

 

[expat]

I would say the Key to TOB life is the way you use the clutch.

Do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal.

Never keep the pedal depressed unless you are actively disengaging the clutch during a gear change(ie. don't keep the pedal depressed waiting for a traffic light to change)

 

[panthermike]

Originally Posted By: expat
I would say the Key to TOB life is the way you use the clutch.

Do not rest your foot on the clutch pedal.

Never keep the pedal depressed unless you are actively disengaging the clutch during a gear change(ie. don't keep the pedal depressed waiting for a traffic light to change)


I would agree with you and that's the way I drive the car. Not sure of the first 48,XXX miles though, plus these cars are more prone to TOB failure than others unfortunately. Mainly, I just want to do the job right while it's apart so that I don't have to do it again for a long time

 

[vssjim]

I use a smooth butter grease that is not to tackey or stiff, a light chassis grease or a light moly based also works. moly paste type grease's seem to make tham drag when cold after a while in use.

 

[Quest]

I have a tube of shell high-moly grease that is as liquid as smooth butter...it's down to about 1/3 tube (I keep cutting the paper sleeve down so as for my finger to reach down to dip the grease) so I no longer know what particular type of grease that is .....


It's golden in colour though (sleeve labeling), and one tube pretty much lasted me over 20yrs....still has some left for my occasional clutch job.


Q.