MB1 + Additives, could this cause engine knock?

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I don't know if I messed anything up or not but im going to give a thorough story and see what kind of replies/help i get.

I got an E34 BMW 530i, 3.0 V8 M60B30. I changed the oil myself and I searched the internet and saw someone putting MB1 5w20 in their car and liking it. I think they originally came with castrol gtx 10w40.. I went with MB1 and changed the oil out (filter as well). After about a week, the car started with a bit of white/grey oil smoke. It blew off and I thought maybe the intake was dirty. I cleaned it with runrite from the hanging bottle running it through the MAF as well. The car blew off a lot of smoke as I drove it around the block.. I let it run and then I allowed the car to cool and it stopped.

The smoke continued... I noticed smoke at startup and again after idling for a few minutes at a red light or so. At this point I figured it was the valve stems. They could just be bad, but I was hoping to fix it with additives. First I added Gunk Bearin' Seal. Honestly this was just me being stupid, I thought it would seal up the valves and try to stifle the smoke problem. Naturally, it did nothing to notice and I decided to try White Shepherd. After adding the White Shepherd I noticed engine knock.

My one question that I am wondering about right now is since White Shepherd and Bearin' Seal are both additives that are as thin as water. Could adding these additives cause the knock by ruining the viscosity of the oil? I added 1 12oz Bearin' Seal and 2 8oz White Shepherd. (white shepherd instructions say to treat 4-6qts of oil and the M60B30 holds 9qts)

The car has 260k on the clock (bmw had an issue with nikasil blocks and this is probably actually much less, but I'm not taking away from the fact that the valves could just be bad and need replacing). When I got the car, the car had been sitting for the better part of 3-4 months.

I don't know if I can think of any more details that may help with any suggestions. My next move is to empty out the MB1 oil and replace it with 10w40 Valvoline Maxlife and stay away from White Shepherd entirely.
 
So you put that garbage in your oil because you heard someone liked it? What was the problem you were trying to solve?

And you are in New Jersey, there is no need for 20W-50 oil. What year is your 530i? If it is like mine, you don't need an LL-01 oil. I would suggest M1 0W-40 if nothing else.
 
Originally Posted By: doomplug
My next move is to empty out the MB1 oil and replace it with 10w40 Valvoline Maxlife and stay away from White Shepherd entirely.


Drain out that mess you currently have in there immediately.

-4 To 50 F: 10W-30
-4 To 68 F: 10W-40
Above 5 F: 15W-40
Below 32 F: 5W-20
Below 50 F: 5W-30

A high mileage 10w-40 would be an excellent choice.
 
It sounds like you may have killed it by running an inappropriate grade of oil and then making that thin oil even thinner by additive-izing it to death.

Not sure on the thought process here.... Wizards in a bottle (to borrow Trav's phrase) can't fix mechanical problems, which is what it sounds like you thought you were experiencing
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
GHT/TechnoLoGs, welcome back to BITOG.
lol.gif



I'm going to LMAO if it is him
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
GHT/TechnoLoGs, welcome back to BITOG.
lol.gif



i dont know what that means.

i was just seriously looking for some guidance.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the OP, with two posts and the word "doom" in his screen name, either has not fixed his car or never did those awful things he said he did….
 
Perhaps a "new to him" vehicle that had an existing knock that was masked by
a high viscocity oil/additive mix.
Only noticable after the 1st change.
 
Originally Posted By: Ursatdx
Perhaps a "new to him" vehicle that had an existing knock that was masked by
a high viscocity oil/additive mix.
Only noticable after the 1st change.


^^Possibly the previous owner masked an engine problem with some Motor Honey or something. Then when you drained/refilled,the problem resurfaced.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It sounds like you may have killed it by running an inappropriate grade of oil and then making that thin oil even thinner by additive-izing it to death.

Not sure on the thought process here.... Wizards in a bottle (to borrow Trav's phrase) can't fix mechanical problems, which is what it sounds like you thought you were experiencing
21.gif



I never thought I'd find some wizards in a bottle. I thought that perhaps the valve stem seals were worn a bit and that something like white shepherd might swell them a bit to get a little more life out of the car before replacing the engine.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
GHT/TechnoLoGs, welcome back to BITOG. LOL


Originally Posted By: kschachn
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the OP, with two posts and the word "doom" in his screen name, either has not fixed his car or never did those awful things he said he did….


I really don't understand these cold comments. I really wished for more maturity out of this forum. I bought the car as a second car to work on with my grandfather. After he got sicker I tried to do some of these things myself, I'm new to this. I just wanted some life out of the car until summer so I can do things without freezing in the cold. I don't mean to come off like a jerk here but apparently everyone that makes a mistake is immediately related to a troll.

Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Drain out that mess you currently have in there immediately.

-4 To 50 F: 10W-30
-4 To 68 F: 10W-40
Above 5 F: 15W-40
Below 32 F: 5W-20
Below 50 F: 5W-30

A high mileage 10w-40 would be an excellent choice.


I just wanted to make sure im making a good decision after my fairly bad one. Your insight is definitely encouraging and I thank you for that.

Originally Posted By: Ursatdx
Perhaps a "new to him" vehicle that had an existing knock that was masked by
a high viscocity oil/additive mix.
Only noticable after the 1st change.


Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
^^Possibly the previous owner masked an engine problem with some Motor Honey or something. Then when you drained/refilled,the problem resurfaced.



these are something i hadn't thought of, the oil seemed dirty and thin when i got it, im unsure if that would make the problems resurface or not. good ideas though thanks...


and ramblejam, i'm sorry but no i didnt have time to remove the mess. I havent had time. My grandfather passed away and I've been busy with the funeral and family functions. The car is not my primary car, i'm not driving the vehicle with the mess i've made.
 
I`m willing to bet a fill of something like 20W50 Maxlife would bring it back to life. Definitely can`t hurt. There may be some Autozones with the 5 quart jugs left in stock for $5 (on clearance).

I`m very sorry to hear about your grandfather :^(
 
For starters why did you put 5W20 in that engine? Because one person on the internet liked it? Drain the sump and re-fill it with the specified grade of oil and keep your fingers crossed.
 
I would grudgingly agree with a 10w-40 HM (i.e. MaxLife) and stick with it for the time being. I like MaxLife, I don't like 10w-40 much, though.
wink.gif
Run a couple short OCIs on this and monitor things.
 
Depending on the temperature, 5W-20 may be specified for that engine, same as my E34 M60.

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
For starters why did you put 5W20 in that engine? Because one person on the internet liked it? Drain the sump and re-fill it with the specified grade of oil and keep your fingers crossed.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I`m willing to bet a fill of something like 20W50 Maxlife would bring it back to life. Definitely can`t hurt. There may be some Autozones with the 5 quart jugs left in stock for $5 (on clearance).

I`m very sorry to hear about your grandfather :^(


thanks about my grandfather, i'll get by .. 20w50 isn't too much? i have 10w40 5quart jugs already but honestly they were 15 bucks.. i'd get the clearance just just to have on hand.. thanks for the heads up
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Depending on the temperature, 5W-20 may be specified for that engine, same as my E34 M60.


you may be right, there's a lot of conflicting information out there because of those nikasil lined blocks.. specs changed over time.. i am friendly with a bmw mastertech that opened an independent shop and he actually said that they changed the spec on the spark plugs at some point and i should switch to 4 prong plugs instead of the 2 prong plugs they originally came with.. i dont have part numbers on hand but i can get them if you want.. i have the 94 530i as well with the 5-speed.. i love the car..
 
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