4.6 SOHC Ford Motorsport SVO Mobil1 5w-30 500 mile

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JDW

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This is my first oil analysis. After sending the analysis to the guy who built my engine and also in my opinion, we feel it is due to the K&N filter which is not the best for filtering out dirt but great for flow of air that the SCer needs. As you guys have been here for a long time and I am new to this, I would value your opinions. Also, at this time, I would like to apologize for not using your "code" format as you suggested for putting in my analysis information, but as I said, I am new to this and could not figure out how to make it work.


QUESTION SENT TO ANALYST WHO DID THE TESTING: Talked over the coolant issue in the sample with my engine builder and its a mystery to us about the coolant in the oil. 0.13 is a very small amount . Also do you think the Hi numbers in my report may be due to the new engine ? Thank you for any feedback that you may provide.

ANSWER FROM THE ANALYST:I was the analyst who wrote your sample, and you're right -- 0.13% coolant isn't a lot at all. Normally we say it takes 0.4% coolant before you start to see any wear issues. So we don't necessarily think the coolant is a serious issue right now, but it's certainly worth watching. Potassium, silicon, and sodium are the elements we're looking at here. When you have all three elements present, it tends to show coolant, but maybe -- just maybe -- that's not the case. The silicon could be from sealers that were used when the engine work was done or abrasive contamination from a leak or problem with the air filter. The sodium might be oil additive from a previous oil, and the potassium, well, that one's not as common. It could be some sort of soldering material from when the engine was put together, or maybe it's an additive from a grease or lube. Most commonly, though, it's from coolant, so we wanted to put you on "alert" just in case it was coolant, so that you'd have an early diagnosis and were able to do something about it, if the need arose.

Metals are pretty high, yes, but you're probably right in thinking that some of this is from wear-in, if you've only put 3,000-4,000 miles on the new engine. (I didn't know the modifications were that recently when I was writing the report.) Some of it could just be normal wear for your engine, though, but we'll have to see trends build to determine that for sure. Basically, I wouldn't do anything drastic yet, but, as we suggested in the report, watch for coolant loss (just in case) and check back in about 1,000 miles. If the metals are from wear-in, they'll wash out a little, and maybe the sodium will wash out too, if it's just additive from a previous oil you used. Check the air filter/intake for leaks or problems just in case the silicon is an airborne contaminant. If it is, that might account for some of the wear too (though silicon could also be from coolant or from sealers). So there are a lot of possibilities here.... but nothing much that we can say definitively, at least not at this point. As we see the trends that build, we should have a better idea of what's what in your sample.


INFORMATION ABOUT MY ENGINE:Built 3/13 . Maybe 3k

4.6 SOHC Ford Motorsport SVO EATON M112 (4th Gen) Supercharger 2.9" Pulley @ 12+ psi Boost
.020 over 96-98 Cobra Teskid Block with Forged Steel 8-Bolt Crank
ManleySVT "H" Beam 4340 Forged Steel Connecting Rods
18cc MAHLE Forged Aluminum Pistons for a 3.572" Bore
9.5:1 Compression Ratio
Comp Xtreme Energy XE268H camshafts timed with
Trick Flow Specialties Adjustable Crank Sprockets pushing
Manley Performance NexTek valve springs
Melling Billet Hi-Volume Oil pump circulating Mobil 1 Synthetic, 5W-30
55 GPM Meziere Electric water pump

ff5afb85-d125-4932-ac2f-cccfafbb0c45_zps80e1c7ab.jpg
 
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The Silicon and potassium may be left over from the engine build. Since your using 5w30, I'd bump up to M1 0w40 for this engine. Especially if your using the meth injection.

What are your previous oils and OCIs?
 
No previous oils in the block. It was a cleaned and balanced unit , Not sure what OCI means. New to the chemical world
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And always use Motorcraft filters. And Thank you for the info on M1 new life , News to me.
 
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Originally Posted By: JDW
No previous oils in the block. It was a cleaned and balanced unit , Not sure what OCI means. New to the chemical world
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And always use Motorcraft filters. And Thank you for the info on M1 new life , News to me.


If this was the first oil drained out, I would not be worried about a thing. A lot of assembly, sealants and lubes have different metals in them.


OCI means oil change interval. MC filters are a great value for the money. The M1 0w-40 here is called European, not the same as the "new life" from over seas.
 
Not the first but about the 3rd to 4th one. About all this engine see's is 1/4 tracks times and 80 mile round trip to track and back home and a few 200 mile trips to my hometown.I chance it about after the 4th or 5th track time . Being SCed it likes cool dense air mostly fall & spring is when the car is out. That being said would the M1 0w40 still be a good one? Also the MC filters have the metal end caps and back feed valve , I believe I am right about that. Thank you Volk for this info.
 
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Originally Posted By: volk06
The M1 0w-40 here is called European, not the same as the "new life" from over seas.


I believe the oil actually is the same; ExxonMobil has been harmonizing their Mobil 1 line for a while now. I do think what we have here as the "European Formula" and what the rest of the world has as "New Life" is the same lubricant.

Even if it's not, the Mobil 1 0W-40 you can buy in a jug at Walmart for 25 bucks is an incredible value for an incredible oil.

Welcome to the forum! From where in NC are you?
 
Thank you as well Jason in Buies Creek here just east of the Cape Fear river.
 
If anyone needs a K&N air filter it's someone with a modified supercharged engine. You have to decide if you care about metal wear or power. The abrasive silicone in surely getting in through the K&N but if you need every bit of power out of your engine it's worth it.

I would experiment with an Amsoil air filter if it's available and see if you lose any power.

Moly in your report is an anti wear additive and it's presence is actually a bit low here. Most good oils contain at least 80 ppm and the boutique oils like Redline even more. Some of your moly is probably depositing on your engine where it belongs. Try Redline 0w40 if you can afford it.
 
First off, one UOA from a built engine during break-in, isn't a reliable indicator for inducing freak-out when there are no other indicators of trouble. After the oil has been changed once or twice and you have a couple of bad UOAs to look at, that's when you can officially start to pull hair.

There is always lot's of nastiness in break in oil. Some of that is unavoidable. Some can be improved by the builder if he is very careful with cleanliness after machining and during assembly, as well as being careful with how and where he uses RTV sealer. But all that is just one reason why you do an early oil change... to flush all that stuff out. Unless your car is operated on a dirt track or you are hauling 'shine on the back roads of NC with the revenuers on your tail ( : < ), I doubt the air filter made much of a contribution to that load of silicon... the generally lower efficiency of oiled cotton gauze notwithstanding. In street use, the lower efficiency of a K&N isn't bad enough to show that much more silicon... certainly not in worrisome amounts. And, as was said above, with a blower, airflow MUST be a priority.

What I suggest is that you change the oil and filter ASAP (if you haven't yet), double check for coolant leaks, retorque the heads and make another oil run with UOA to follow up. The reason I suggest the head retorque is that the boost from a supercharger drastically increases combustion pressure and can slightly lift the heads to push coolant out to various areas. I could go into stretched head bolts, TTY head bolts and the general need for had studs on a supercharged engine but I suspect those issues have been dealt with. Even with head studs, you sometimes need to retorque after the block and heads have been thru some heat cycles. Again, if this this has been dealt with, forgive my stating the obvious.
 
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Jim
I changed the break in oil about 500 or so miles on the engine. and just took the sample out of this years runs. Fresh Mobil in it now for the winter nap , During the built we used top notch parts and ARP head studs for the heads. So not sure about the lifting. My engine man has a 780 RWHP 4.6 1/4 mile time 9.56@138 he knows his stuff. And my engine runs great. Will be changing to a better oil. Thank you all for the info very much,

BTW The hauling corn juice is behind me in my years.
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The cost of Redline is no problem if the added protection is there, So I take it that 0W40 would be a good choice for my location (south) and driving habits as noted in above post ? Thank you for all the info again guys. I am a member on other forums and I know how noobs can be.
 
Teskid is a good block, nice and beefy for performance use and easy to find. WAP blocks are about 5 pounds lighter and beefed up but not to the Teskid level.
 
Well, sounds like the engine was built with the right stuff, vis-a-vis the coolant and head lifting. And if this sample is from the second oil run, that's a little scarier IMO than if it was from the first load but there is still little to indicate the need to do anything but watch carefully and take a second sample. Sounds like that's you opinion as well and yours is the opinion that counts. Please keep us posted.
 
Will do Jim, Changing out the oil with the new Redline this week, Will put some runs and miles on it and send in a new sample.
 
Guys I just want to make sure I am making the right choice here with the 0w40 for this engine before I put her down on the floor for some track time next month. Cranked her up smooth & 67 psi oil pressure. Have been doing some reading and the 0, I feel will be no issue,but the 40 has me concerned. Have read were it will hold heat longer by being thicker and not flowing as well.Not at all worried about loosing 10th's in the 1/4 mile over oil just want the best protection for the investment.
 
The engine was designed for 30 for daily use but even many ford engineers recommend using 40 is track cars. Even in the DOHC 4.6 which has tighter clearances.
 
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
The engine was designed for 30 for daily use but even many ford engineers recommend using 40 in track cars. Even in the DOHC 4.6 which has tighter clearances.


Thank you.News I did not know.
 
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
The engine was designed for 30 for daily use but even many ford engineers recommend using 40 is track cars. Even in the DOHC 4.6 which has tighter clearances.


I have seen nothing that indicates any of the factory clearances are reduced in the DOHC engine. Please explain, I am truly interested in this statement...
 
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