Cold day - playing with my mod/con boiler

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JHZR2

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The design temperature for the outdoor reset in my boiler, for this area, is 14F. We were right around 14F today, so I was playing with some of the settings to try and optimize the efficiency of the boiler operations. We keep the house at 64-65 when we are home and awake, and 62 when gone or asleep. We augment with some electric heat in the baby's room when it is cold, but we generally like to sleep cold, so it works.

We have a peerless purefire modulating/condensing boiler, with indirect water heater. It is really efficient and we are really happy with it. We have had it installed for a few years now. It is set up with two zones - one that feeds all the cast iron radiators in the home, and the other which feeds the water heater.

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What I found was that with the circulator pump set to lowest setting causes the boiler to hit the setpoint too quick, and then it will cut out until the water temperature is back in specification. The circulator pump is a make and model recommended by the manufacturer for use with our model boiler, and the lowest speed setting is acceptable per the owners manual but I suppose our pressure drop in the piping is sufficiently high to reduce flowrate. There is a minimum flowrate required, so hitting the setpoint too rapidly without even modulating would indicate too slow a flow, right??? Looking at the pump head vs flowrate chart, it appears to confirm this.

At the mid-speed setting, the delta T (supply - return) is around 34F from initial firing until some time after the water setpoint is reached, and the boiler starts modulating. 40F is "optimal" for efficiency apparently, but I couldnt hit it.

At the high speed setting, the delta T decreases, at which point it starts to modulate "early".

So this tells me that the circulator (which again is a brand and model recommended by the boiler manufacturer for this boiler) is a good recommendation but slightly oversized for this application, in that it is either too slow or just a tad bit too fast on the mid setting, to get to the optimal delta T. I suppose I need a VSD for the circulator
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Can I induce some voltage drop in its line and slow it down slightly???

The thing is this: At setting 2, where I have a pretty good delta T, the boiler is very slow to hit the setpoint. The outdoor reset active and set for cast iron radiators is currently specifying 157F of a maximum 160F water temperature, with ambient around 16F currently. For example, after running maybe 10-15 minutes, 100% gas input, with the home around 65F (thermostat set to 69), the water supply temperature reached 151F when the setpoint was 157F (was lower before that and the whole test started with the system equilibrated and supply and return at 107F. After 25-30 minutes, the setpoint is reached and the boiler starts modulating down the gas flow... But the delta T also starts shrinking from 34 to 30-31 and then less as time goes by (because less heat is radiating into the space due to lower delta T in the living area). Is that too slow or too fast to hit setpoint?

Of course this is a mod/con boiler, and boilers are more efficient apparently at lower water temperatures and higher delta T. But its also beneficial to be modulatng so that Im burning less gas overall.

Soooooooo... Is there a good rule of thumb as to how long it should take to hit the water temperature setpoint and begin modulating? Also, is there anything else I can do to get my delta T higher and for longer, including steady-state operations where the boiler is modulating down at the water setpoint? Of course I dont want the delta T to be too great, or else it is probably worse for the heat exchanger in the boiler.

Thanks!
 
Cast iron radiators take a while to heat up and then a while to cool down. I think you'll find that is why your boiler is running at 100% for so long. Once the mass has been heated then the boiler can modulate.

What is the piping method used to connect to the radiators?

I have a Munchkin modulating boiler with baseboards. In only a couple of minutes I'm modulating. I can watch the boiler light, the output temp start to rise, and then in only a few minutes the boiler is throttling down to hold the setpoint. With 3/4 copper pipes and the baseboards I have much less thermal mass.
 
Yeah its ALL cast iron. The house is piped with 1 1/2" or so CI pipe.

True about the thermal mass. I guess where Im getting at is that is it better to be aiming for the bigger delta T and lower temps (which apparently is the most efficient way to run), or modulating down so that less is burned overall?

I believe I read someplace that CI radiators with hydronic heat is the most efficient means of heating... so the thermal mass may be a great thing since the temperatures and thus combustion efficiency and condensing rates are maximized... IIRC, efficiency is most optimized when condensation is maximized... The whole LHV thing...
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I would just like to be able to burn natural gas. Instead its oil or propane.
X2 But not having neighbors and living in the woods is good for the solitude,. There is no real advantage to an oil burner any more. I will replace it with a propane burner at the first sign of trouble.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Originally Posted By: Donald
I would just like to be able to burn natural gas. Instead its oil or propane.
X2 But not having neighbors and living in the woods is good for the solitude,. There is no real advantage to an oil burner any more. I will replace it with a propane burner at the first sign of trouble.


+1 for the peace of mind living in the woods.

My oil burner gun is a Riello which is probably the best available. It pressurizes the oil to 100 lbs before it actually opens the flow and fires. It also has an air flow shutter so when the gun is off, no air flows through the boiler and up the flue.

Propane comes from oil, so when many people switch to propane it may not be so cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Yeah its ALL cast iron. The house is piped with 1 1/2" or so CI pipe.

True about the thermal mass. I guess where Im getting at is that is it better to be aiming for the bigger delta T and lower temps (which apparently is the most efficient way to run), or modulating down so that less is burned overall?


Is it piped primary-secondary? Which circulator? System or zone?

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I believe I read someplace that CI radiators with hydronic heat is the most efficient means of heating... so the thermal mass may be a great thing since the temperatures and thus combustion efficiency and condensing rates are maximized... IIRC, efficiency is most optimized when condensation is maximized... The whole LHV thing...


CI is a great way to heat. The greater the mass the better. In floor also is VERY efficient when properly set up. You do get the most efficiency when it is condensing.
 
Originally Posted By: AandPDan


Is it piped primary-secondary? Which circulator? System or zone?



Not entirely sure I'm qualified to answer that correctly.

All the radiators in the house are on one "zone", so a call for heat flows water to all radiators everywhere. It's all original piping. Before we had a gas tanked water heater, but went indirect. The boiler thus has the "CH" circulator and the "DHW" circulator, for central heating and domestic hot water. Water takes priority if it calls for heat, at least for a certain duration, to ensure adequate water supply for most uses. Thus there are two circulatory with two parallel loops, one through the radiators and the other through the indirect heat exchanger.

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Primary/Secondary piping is usually the way to go on a mod/con.

The boiler is piped into it's own "loop." There are "closely spaced tees" off of the loop that the zones connect to. You would have two circulators, one for the boiler and one for the heating zones. You'd need zone valves or another circulator for your DHW.

Like this: Primary/Secondary piping

The boiler will come up to setpoint very fast. The advantage is that you can optimize the flow through the boiler and also through the zones. There's a form of hydraulic separation. Your zone piping is probably huge.
 
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