Quick Dewalt DCF880m2 1/2 drive review

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I just added a dewalt dcf880m2 to my tool collection. I bought this mainly for removing wheels for brake jobs and tire rotation but after using it a little bit, I think it will be handy for many things because of it's size and power.

Here is the manufacturer's specs:
http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-impact-driverswrenches-drivers--wrenches-dcf880m2.aspx
Amazon is probably your best bet in terms of pricing:
1/2 drive version:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF880HM2-2...ywords=dcf880m2
3/8 drive version:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NVS...ttpwwwyou00f-20

I bought the bundle package which includes 2 removable batteries and a charging station. I would get the bundle package for sure.

First thing i notice immediately was the size of this unit. It is extremely light at an astonishing 3.5 pounds and is only 5-6 inches wide without sockets! This impact driver is extremely comfortable in my large size hands. It also has 3 built in LED that aims where you point the impact driver.

I bought the 1/2 drive version because of the extra power it has over the 3/8 drive. With each of these drives, you get to choose whether it is built with a HOG or DETENT ring. Go with the HOG ring as it securely and easily locks your sockets in place.

Ive been using this unit for about 2 weeks now and i have no regrets what so ever. It has removed everything i've thrown at it with lug nuts being the tightest @ 100 ft pd. I purposely torqued a lug nut to 100ft pd to see its power and it took it off with ease. The trigger is the only power setting so it controls the speed and power of the impact driver. The forward and reverse switch is conveniently located above the trigger. There is a button on the battery that displays how much power is left in 1/3 increments. After two weeks of moderate use, i still have 3/3 bars left on the charge. This includes 2 car tire rotation, removing and reinstall suspension and a brake job.

All in all, i highly suggest this tool as it will save you tons of time, money, space and hearing over a traditional air gun setup. If you plan to purchase one of these, make sure to do research as to what drive size you want: 3/8 or 1/2. I went with 1/2 because of the slightly extra power but now i also have to purchase a 1/2 drive impact socket set. I don't recommend non impact sockets with the use of impact tools.



Video of a 100ft pd lug nut removal:
 
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Awesome. The will be great for snow tire/wheel changes.

Now must have because I am 20V max with a Drill and my Christmas present was the 20V Max radio. Thing is, I have two batteries and a charger already, plus the radio charges batteries.

I will just the driver itself.
 
It's great for wheels. Having this impact driver eliminates the two step process of loosening the nuts with the car on the floor and then removing them in the air. Now i can just jack up the car at all four ends and remove them all in one step.
 
If looks like the max torque is 150 ft/lbs, about half of the torque of the Dewalt 18V one. Why didn't you go with a DCF889 which is also 20V but 300 ft/lbs.

I think the one you got is called a compact model.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
If looks like the max torque is 150 ft/lbs, about half of the torque of the Dewalt 18V one. Why didn't you go with a DCF889 which is also 20V but 300 ft/lbs.

I think the one you got is called a compact model.


I agree on the higher torque model unless you need the compact size, or just don't need the torque.

Oddly I cannot find the DCF889 in a "tool only" model with hog ring, just ball detent. Am I missing something? Ball will work OK for me though.
 
why are you using swivel or extension? It cuts down on the available torque at the fastener. The joint absorbs the shocks, so you lose some fraction of the available power coming from the gun.
 
You should also look in to Fuel from Milwaukee as those use brush-less motor and have more torque for the given size and weight of the gun. DeWalt does not yet have an impact wrench with that technology although they do have a driver with brush-less motor.

20VMax is the current line. 18V line most likely will not be updated with any new tools.
 
For me the max torque needed is more than the normal 110 ft/lbs for a vehicle lug nut. Its the 300 or 400 ft/lbs for a rusted lug nut on a trailer or similar.

My 18V Dewalt (300 ft/lbs) did not get some lugs nuts off a trailer. Years ago when I used a breaker bar and pipe on a rusted lug nut I just snapped the stud or lug bolt. So this time even with 300 ft/lbs I could not get it off. I tried every day with PB-Blaster and the impact wrench. It finally came off. I suspect one with 150 ft/lbs would have been little use and I would had to have gotten out my pneumatic impact wrench.

But for some uses a more compact & lightweight one may be fine
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You should also look in to Fuel from Milwaukee as those use brush-less motor and have more torque for the given size and weight of the gun. DeWalt does not yet have an impact wrench with that technology although they do have a driver with brush-less motor.

20VMax is the current line. 18V line most likely will not be updated with any new tools.


I think its the "premium" line of Dewalt 20V that are brushless and metal gears/housings.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why are you using swivel or extension? It cuts down on the available torque at the fastener. The joint absorbs the shocks, so you lose some fraction of the available power coming from the gun.


Probably not and a ball will be fine.

Originally Posted By: Vikas
You should also look in to Fuel from Milwaukee as those use brush-less motor and have more torque for the given size and weight of the gun. DeWalt does not yet have an impact wrench with that technology although they do have a driver with brush-less motor.

20VMax is the current line. 18V line most likely will not be updated with any new tools.


I'm dedicated to the 20V MAX line now. The tools don't break the bank, they are strong enough for my uses and the batteries seem to be great.
 
Having had both hog ring and detent pin, I now prefer hog ring. I had the hog ring first and at that time I thought I would like detent pin better. So the second impact was purchased with detent pin but after working with both, I realized that hog ring is better.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why are you using swivel or extension? It cuts down on the available torque at the fastener. The joint absorbs the shocks, so you lose some fraction of the available power coming from the gun.



I wasnt using a swivel socket. Attached to the impact driver is a 19mm and the attached to that is my wheel lock. I wish the wheel lock was a 1/2 socket.

Originally Posted By: Donald
For me the max torque needed is more than the normal 110 ft/lbs for a vehicle lug nut. Its the 300 or 400 ft/lbs for a rusted lug nut on a trailer or similar.

My 18V Dewalt (300 ft/lbs) did not get some lugs nuts off a trailer. Years ago when I used a breaker bar and pipe on a rusted lug nut I just snapped the stud or lug bolt. So this time even with 300 ft/lbs I could not get it off. I tried every day with PB-Blaster and the impact wrench. It finally came off. I suspect one with 150 ft/lbs would have been little use and I would had to have gotten out my pneumatic impact wrench.

But for some uses a more compact & lightweight one may be fine


I am a shade tree mechanic. I do light work on all my vehicles: brakes, suspension, tire rotation, fluid changes, tunes ups etc...

If i was loosening crank and axle bolts all day, i'd definitely step up to the one you mentioned.
 
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Having had both hog ring and detent pin, I now prefer hog ring. I had the hog ring first and at that time I thought I would like detent pin better. So the second impact was purchased with detent pin but after working with both, I realized that hog ring is better.


Why is it better? I tend to have marginally more failures with hog ring sockets vs. pins. The rings get fudged up. Not a huge sample or anything.

Also I already have air tools, so the electric would be mainly for quicky stuff, wheels and the like.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I tend to have marginally more failures with hog ring sockets vs. pins. The rings get fudged up. Not a huge sample or anything.


This is one of the reasons I prefer pins. But in reality, it's a minor difference.
 
Thanks for the review. If you already have the 20v system, this tool makes a lot of sense.

Otherwise, I think the IR W7150 is a better buy. You get 780 ft-lb of torque and I've seen the 1-batt versions available for around $350 sometimes.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why are you using swivel or extension? It cuts down on the available torque at the fastener. The joint absorbs the shocks, so you lose some fraction of the available power coming from the gun.



I wasnt using a swivel socket. Attached to the impact driver is a 19mm and the attached to that is my wheel lock. I wish the wheel lock was a 1/2 socket.

Originally Posted By: Donald
For me the max torque needed is more than the normal 110 ft/lbs for a vehicle lug nut. Its the 300 or 400 ft/lbs for a rusted lug nut on a trailer or similar.

My 18V Dewalt (300 ft/lbs) did not get some lugs nuts off a trailer. Years ago when I used a breaker bar and pipe on a rusted lug nut I just snapped the stud or lug bolt. So this time even with 300 ft/lbs I could not get it off. I tried every day with PB-Blaster and the impact wrench. It finally came off. I suspect one with 150 ft/lbs would have been little use and I would had to have gotten out my pneumatic impact wrench.

But for some uses a more compact & lightweight one may be fine


I am a shade tree mechanic. I do light work on all my vehicles: brakes, suspension, tire rotation, fluid changes, tunes ups etc...

If i was loosening crank and axle bolts all day, i'd definitely step up to the one you mentioned.


I am a mainframe computer guy and only work on my toys when I have time and its a lot warmer than -10F outside.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Thanks for the review. If you already have the 20v system, this tool makes a lot of sense.

Otherwise, I think the IR W7150 is a better buy. You get 780 ft-lb of torque and I've seen the 1-batt versions available for around $350 sometimes.


I partially agree. But I am looking to move from Dewalt 18V to Milwaukee M18 Fuel based tools. My goal will continue to have tools using a single battery type.
 
That's an impact wrench not driver, I have the hammer drill / impact driver combo, I may buy just a bare impact wrench on amazon to add to the collection.
 
With detent, you have to align the socket hole with the detent ball. It is definitely a personal preference and may vary with the your own experience.

I have to give obligatory recommendation for Sears Craftsman C3 19.2 Lithium if you want to get on the fun cheap. You have to be lucky to get a great sale on them but for the money that combination is hard to beat. It effortlessly does 200+ ft-lb and you can have it for under $150.

Torque is important but don't underestimate ergonomics of the tool itself such as the weight, balance, handling etc. Some of them are a pleasure to use. For example, for underhood and underdash, DeWalt 12VMax 3/8 is an absolute delight to use. I do have that but don't have the 20VMax line but I am guessing that for the engine and dash, the little brother would be better. It can handle the brakes but for suspension and wheels, you would need the big brother or a bigger wrench. I have yet to find unfavorable review of the 12VMax impact wrench. Of course, it all depends upon your intended usage of the tool. It made installing the flat screen on the wall an effortless chore. It was the perfect tool for the 8mm lagbolts to the wall for hanging the mount.
 
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