ABS pump leaking! Advice needed, help!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 9, 2013
Messages
5
Location
TX
Hey all,

A new member with 06 Mazda 3 S (2.3L) has issue with leaking ABS pump.
It's showing symptom of insufficient brake fluid pressure; pedal gets sucked all the way down to floor when depressed gently, stops fairly quick when depressed hard enough.

At first we thought either master cylinder or brake booster was leaking, so we replaced MC and bled it few times, no satiable result. Symptoms were getting worsen, and realized topped fluid reservoir became almost empty! So we jacked up the car and looked for signs of brake fluid leak, but instead, we found it at very unusual place-ABS pump.

Seems that it's leaking from bottom of ABS pump, where the mount goes, I felt a roundel object and that was source of the leak. But as far as I know, ABS pump contains some type of special seal that can withstand acid brake fluid.

So, the questions,

a) Is it possible to replace the internal seal with proper size/spec? As I stated above, I don't even know what type of seals go in, so it's going to be hard to look for one at local auto parts store..

b) And if we get an used ABS pump, is it okay to get Ford ABS pump with same part number? I've found some ABS pump from Focus and etc models with MZR engine, there is some price difference on Mazda ABS pump and Ford ABS pump. Both have 3M51 2M110 JA (last two digits are different, such as CA, BE, etc).

c) Last, how do we bleed the system without Ford/Mazda XVCI diagnostic tool? I own a 02 BMW 330i, I had to open an ABS pump with a scanner in order to flush/bleed the whole system properly. Whether I choose option A or B, all fluid line goes to ABS pump, so I really need to figure this out before making any move.

Any tips and comments would be helpful for a Mazda newbie!
Thanks a lot, oh and late happy thanksgiving. Gobble gobble lol.
 
The only piece of advice to offer is that you
1. Get the vehicle service manual
2. Use the procedure for depressurizing the ABS module.

If you don't do that before removal, you could get hurt by high pressure brake fluid.

I would be afraid to use an ABS module from a different car because ABS systems are programmed based on the needs of a certain vehicle. Just because a car is very similar to another one doesn't mean they are absolutely the same.
 
You may need to do a little checking to see if the hydraulic section is the same as others and if you can just change the ECBM electrical part from your car if you can't locate the correct one.You can just unscrew the black elecrical part off the unit with no special tools or anything. You should be able to bleed the brakes without a scan tool on that car with out any trouble. i don't think most of the hydro units are repairable any more like the old units were.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for advices.
I got lucky, I was able to find an exact same one on ebay, it's on it's way here. Thank goodness..
I found a factory service manual from Mazda forum, it sure seems helpful but I haven't found anything about hydraulic precaution or anything like that. Also it says I need to perform configuration procedure before removing ABS unit, otherwise ABS will not work properly...Refer following;

[censored] HUlCM REMOVAUINSTALLATION
id041300801400
Caution

When replacing the [censored] HUlCM, the configuration procedure must be done before removing the [censored] HUICM. If the configuration is not completed before removing the [censored] HUlCM, [censored] will not work properly after installation of the [censored] HUICM.

Do not separate the [censored] HU and [censored] CM unless replacing them, otherwise the [censored] HUlCM may not function properly. When replacing them with new ones, always perform procedures according to the instructions included with the new parts.

The internal parts of the [censored] HUlCM could be damaged if dropped. Se careful not to drop the [censored] HUICM. Replace the [censored] HUlCM if it is subjected to an impact.
"i, Remove the battery and battery tray. (See 01-17A-2 BATTERY REMOVALlINSTALLATIOr\I[LF, L3].)
2.
Remove the reserve hose. (MTX) (See 04-11-9 MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION[LF, L3].) (See 05-10-6 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
3.
Remove in the order indicated in the table.
4.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
5.
Configurate the ABS HU/CM (only when replacing it). (See 04-13-6 ABS CONFIGURATION.)


ABS configuration procedure involves M-MDS software, I've been trying to look for 'aftermarket' VCM diagnosis tool, but they were all well over $300..Oh dear. Am I screwed?
 
Here's how ABS configuration is done

[censored] CONFIGURATION

1, Connect the M-MDS to the DLC-2 connector,

2, After the vehicle is identified, select the following
items from the initial screen of the M-MDS,

When using the IDS (laptop PC)
a, Select the "Module Programming",
When using the PDS (Pocket PC)
a, Select "Programming",
b. Select "Module Programming".

3. Then, select the "Programmable Module
Installation" and "ABS" from the screen menu.
4, Perform the configuration according to the
directions on the screen,
5, Retrieve DTCs using the M-MDS, then verify if
DTCs are present.
• If a DTC is present, perform the applicable DTC inspection. (See 04-02A-2 ON-BOARD
DIAGNOSIS[ABS].)
 
Originally Posted By: Mack89
Here's how ABS configuration is done

[censored] CONFIGURATION

1, Connect the M-MDS to the DLC-2 connector,

2, After the vehicle is identified, select the following
items from the initial screen of the M-MDS,

When using the IDS (laptop PC)
a, Select the "Module Programming",
When using the PDS (Pocket PC)
a, Select "Programming",
b. Select "Module Programming".

3. Then, select the "Programmable Module
Installation" and "ABS" from the screen menu.
4, Perform the configuration according to the
directions on the screen,
5, Retrieve DTCs using the M-MDS, then verify if
DTCs are present.
• If a DTC is present, perform the applicable DTC inspection. (See 04-02A-2 ON-BOARD
DIAGNOSIS[ABS].)


To bleed/circulate the ABS pump, You will need a Ford IDS/VCM unit to do it.
There is however a Workaround

Do you have a computer that has Bluetooth? If not you'll need one of these
Amazon

And a Bluetooth OBD2 reader
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC1...p;keywords=BAFX

Then use this Free piece of really good software that will do just about everything that IDS can.

http://forscan.org/home.html
 
Holy moly, is there a public software for Ford/Mazda? I have an OBD2 scanner(ScanTool product, ELM327), I will give it a shot with that software and report back. Thank you Michael!
 
Alrighty, I replaced the ABS pump with used one, even though it was made in Germany and had different part number, it worked well. I decided to use old controller(original) and replace the pump itself, no leak so far, ABS works great, brake works as it should be. One thing is that airbag light came on, I will read the code with Forscan and update.
 
Originally Posted By: Mack89
Alrighty, I replaced the ABS pump with used one, even though it was made in Germany and had different part number, it worked well. I decided to use old controller(original) and replace the pump itself, no leak so far, ABS works great, brake works as it should be. One thing is that airbag light came on, I will read the code with Forscan and update.


Everything work out?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top