Replace brake pads?

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When should you replace brake pads?

I just had mine inspected and they said they are fine. 8mm on the front and 6mm on the rear. I know the front come with more material but don't last as long because of the ratio of front:rear brake.

I thought the fronts were probably close to needing replacing so I planned to put new pads/rotors on in a couple weeks - haven't done on this vehicle before but have on others. But I guess they are fine. After the inspection there is less travel in the pedal, too. Not sure why?

So at what point (i.e.: how much brake pad left) do they need to be changed? And anyone know how thick OEM pads are when new (for front and back - this vehicle is a 2010 Equinox)?
 
My Camry IIRC had 10mm new; my Tundra has like 16mm new.

I'd go until they are much more worn. On my Jetta I'd go to metal on metal actually: most recommend replacing the rotors anyhow, and on my car the rotors are very chewed up by that time anyhow (they rust really fast). Some vehicles don't wear the rotors down as quickly, so you could reuse; in that case replacing earlier would be better.

Being in KY I doubt you'd run into a time issue. I had a pad fall off, and as such I'm now somewhat reluctant to run past 5 years.
 
That is some pretty thin pad material.
I would not run them any longer than it takes to find a set and have them ready for a good weather day to change pads and rotors, if it were me. Better to be safe than sorry with brakes. Overkill is good in my world as far as preventive car care.
 
The generic recommendation is 2-3mm for replacement. For eyeballing purposes, I replace when the pad material is the same thickness or less than the pad backing plate.

FWIW on a track car you will fail tech inspection if it is less than half thickness, which is usually ~5mm.
 
+1 For finding a nice day and doing it.

Been waiting a few months to just do my rear brakes.
The issue is to wait long enough that it needs to get done, but not wait so long that it has to be done NOW.

BTW, buy the best of the brand you prefer. You are saving a bundle in labor, save more by using the best components you can find.
 
Scanning back through the responses makes me realize: each of us drives differently. Track car is apt to kill brakes in a session or three, so it makes sense to start off with new or very good condition pads. And replacing pads is probably "cheap", as compared to the rest of racing. My truck, if used for what it's meant for, is going to see heavy braking and perhaps likewise ought to replace early. Others, their daily commute wears 'em out fast. But, for me, on my Jetta, the first set went 5 years/168k on the rears before a rivet start hitting the rotor; the fronts went out at 175 (pad fell off--the other three had half or 3/4 of the material left). I found that metal on metal braking had no impact on my braking: but as you can guess, I don't use brakes that much.

Point is, if you've gone 3 years on a set of pads and are down to 50%, you could probably go at least another year if not two. Or you could replace now if you felt like it. But I wouldn't worry about it.

As for pedal travel: hmm, odd. They have been using rear-biasing for a while, to reduce brake dive. I wonder if the rear pads were frozen to the calipers, and are now free to slide? Mine like to get frozen, but you shouldn't have the rust issues I have.
 
Many auto tool companies offer a tool that helps you determine how much brake pad material you have less. Sort of like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171010646381?lpid=82

Much easier than to estimate brake pad condition by eye.

Using this method helps you out on cars with pad wear sensors. If you replace the brake pads before the sensor touches the rotor, you can usually use the sensor on your new set of brake pads.
 
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