USA-made wood router??

[sleddriver]

If you want an ogee, then you need a router. (There is another way but won't go into that here as it requires a specialized tool...).

With that decided and you plan on using pine, oak or chestnut, you'll need to choose an ogee profile and it'll probably come on an 1/2" shank, so a router with a 1/4" only collet won't work.

Regarding name-brand routers vs. HF-junk, the former will be much better made, have quality sealed bearings and be well-balanced & precision machined. Remember the shaft spins around 23,000 rpm with significant torque, while you're holding on to the body. A bit hairy when you're a beginner, but you'll get used to it. The tool demands respect!

IF you don't want to buy, you may be able to rent one for a few hours from a local HD...but you'll still have to buy the bit.

Sounds like your Grandfather lives too far away to borrow his, correct?

Another option is to inquire at a local Woodcraft or Rockler woodworking store and see if someone there will do it for some cash. You could also contact a local woodworkers club and ask them for assistance.

Thanksgiving is two days away though....also, don't forget your earplugs!

 

[wrcsixeight]

I have a '90s made porter cable plunge router that has seen a lot of use. People keep askng me if I want to sell it.

Nope.

However I do not have a trim router, but have borrowed a Friend's Bosch. I am not impressed.
Number 1 the base depth moves on its own, and I've had it screw up some pieces. No matter how tight I've made the base, or the collet holding the bit, it has moved and dug too deeply into the work when bull nosing something.

Also It has a square base. Each side of the base is a slightly different distance from the edge of the bit, so running the router along a straight edge, on needs to measure the distance from one side, and make sure one uses that side only against the straight edge.

I'd worry about these occurrences happening on the harbor fright models. I don;t use any of their tools on stuff that requires precision. I buy their stuff for things i am not too concerned about, or projects I do not want to beat up a quality tool on where the outcome is not all that important.

I do have one of their corded oscillating multitools though when they first came out. Bought it as a one time beat the heck out of it and multiple blades type of job. It performed that task, and much much more with no signs it is going to give up the ghost anytime soon. I am not even dream shopping for a replacement.

My buddy had one of their sliding mitre saws. It could not be dialed in to be accurate. the fence was not flat, and it could not make two 45 degree cuts to make a nice 90 degree mitre on a corner. We were amused and just relegated it to cutting scrap wood into firewood. It was money certainly better spent toward a better saw.

 

[jcwit]

No more than you're going to route

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAFTSMAN-ROUTER...=item4d1553252b

One to sell, Sears of course, one to keep and use.

As far as the ogee bits, At one time in my former life I worked for a custom wood shop and we used mostly bits with 1/4 inch shafts. Just be sure to buy carbide of course.

I see its in Jersey, might be only 2 blocks away.

 

[JetStar]

I have old PC routers, which work great, including a big speedmaster that I use to make raised panel doors. I'm sure the HF unit will suit your ocasional use just fine. If it doesn't, then lesson learned. Keep in mind that a foreign built good name brand (PC, Bosch, Dewalt) vs. the HF router are at nearly opposite ends of the spectrum and should not be lumped in the same class, unless you are trying to substantiate buying the HF unit.

 

[Pop_Rivit]

I have a both a Freud and a Craftsman, and the quality difference between the two is several orders of magnitude.

The Freud is a vastly superior router-it's balanced well for freehand work, it adjusts well, and it has enough power to do anything I want. It soft starts, so there is virtually no kick when it starts. It's easy to keep it in a straight line when doing inlay work, even without a jig.

The Craftsman I keep mounted in my router table. It's ok, but it's not well balanced and has a lot of kick when started. It works well for the router table, but in my opinion the Freud is a much better investment and the Freud is much more versatile.

If I had to purchase either, having worked with both I wouldn't hesitate to purchase the Freud again, but I'd probably shop around and find something other than the Craftsman.

 

[JHZR2]

Freud makes routers? I did but a router and I got their router bits as I've been most pleased with all their cutting devices...

 

[JHZR2]

So my update... I had a bunch of store credit at Lowe's, so I came home with a $99 Bosch hand-held router. It's the one horsepower colt motor, not the big 2 1/2 hp one, primarily because I didn't like the big Bosch unit that they had at Lowe's compared to the one they had at Home Depot. This Bausch handheld, while a little bit smaller, had a very rigid all metal construction, and a good in-hand feel to me. Ended up with a Freud router bit from Home Depot.

Some of the chestnut trim in our house has a round over corner, and it's perfectly smooth. But I like the look of just having the slightest subtle straight edge of the top of the round over, like just above.

I'm really pleased with the router and with the results. I had never used the router before ever, but it was straightforward and worked well. My only issue was on the ends of the oak board. One of the two pieces I made did this, while the other one did not. Essentially the wood left little fray at the top edge where I had routed. It is only when I did on the ends where the grain was parallel to the length of the board. It was only one of the two oak boards that I routed, The other one came out perfectly smooth. It was easy enough to fix with a very sharp razor blade, which took them right off. Still what is the cause of this and is there some aspect of technique that I can change to avoid it??

Thanks!

 

[sleddriver]

Quote:
I'm really pleased with the router and with the results. I had never used the router before ever, but it was straightforward and worked well. My only issue was on the ends of the oak board. One of the two pieces I made did this, while the other one did not. Essentially the wood left little fray at the top edge where I had routed. It is only when I did on the ends where the grain was parallel to the length of the board. It was only one of the two oak boards that I routed, The other one came out perfectly smooth. It was easy enough to fix with a very sharp razor blade, which took them right off. Still what is the cause of this and is there some aspect of technique that I can change to avoid it??


When routing an edge like that, you always go from left to right, against the rotation of the bit. When you go the other way, called climb cutting, the router can get away from you and skip (bounce) along the surface.

The rough-cut was also cross-grain. You need to push in, towards the board, as well as down the length of it. Else the router will bounce...in either direction, giving you a rough, uneven cut. Finally, do the cross-grain ends first, then follow with the parallel-to-grain long edges.