Project: Honda EU2000i Fixer-Upper

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I picked up a non-running EU2000i today for fairly cheap. I dumped out the gas, it was gross. Green, brown chunks of crust came with it. I then dumped out the sludge that was in the crankcase. Nasty. Split the plastic shell so I could get to the innards without drama.

Pulled the carb, bowl was full of brown crust and main jet was obstructed. Cleaned the carb internals, pulled the main jet and emulsion tube and cleaned them, blew out the air bleed orifice. Broke the darn tamper-resistant idle mixture needle just like the shop manual said and it's still in there for now.

I rotated the crank while looking into the oil filler, both blades on the oil slinger are there. Good sign. Pulled the gas tank and flushed it out, cleaned the filter which had more green/brown crust caked in it.

Put the carb back together and reinstalled. Pulled the spark plug and it was fouled big-time with oil. Pulled the head cover, all was clean. No groove worn into the plastic camshaft lobe so it's been getting oil up top. I poured MMO into the spark plug hole and spun the crank a few turns, left the piston about BDC and added more MMO to soak in for ~20mins.

I filled the crankcase with Rotella T-5 10W-30 and 2oz of MMO, splashed about a pint of gas plus a shot glass of SeaFoam into the tank, put in a new NGK BPR5ES plug, and crossed my fingers.

It started after 15+ pulls, likely just refilling the carb bowl, and smoked like a bug fogger. Wouldn't idle in Eco Mode without ~3/4 choke...idle metering circuit is still clogged somewhere. Ran it up to temp still smoking, threw the Eco Mode switch to OFF and it really smoked. Blue-black smoke. Eventually the MMO burned off, smoke let up a bit but still visible w/ a flashlight.

I pulled the crankcase vent tube off the air filter housing while running to check for signs of crankcase blowby...no smoke blowing out and no oil in the tube. This seems encouraging in terms of ring seal. Presumption is that the oil is coming from the valvestem seals, they're easy to replace.

I sprayed GM Top Engine Cleaner into the intake until it died, then pulled the spark plug (nasty black already) and sprayed more into the cylinder. Let it soak for 15min per the label, re-started and REALLY smoked. Ran the engine to WOT with a space heater connected at ~1600W draw, still wanted ~1/2 choke to run but smoke was tapering off.

Disco'd the heater, hit it with GM Top End Cleaner again to shutdown, sprayed the cylinder again, and dumped out the T5 + MMO from the crankcase. It was gross, brown, and a few chunks of carbon washed out. Refilled with straight T5 and there it sits for the night. The prior owner must not have changed the oil. Ever.

Next steps: hit the Honda dealer for a new idle mix screw and pair of valvestem seals. Strip the carb and hit it again w/ the rubber-tip blower and compressor this time, clean out the orifices copper wire, pull the rockers and valvesprings to replace the seals, and re-test.

Any suggestions are welcome.
 
I know he didn't change the oil, but was this tumbling around upside down? Tied to a burro in the Grand Canyon?

Boggles my mind that someone would deliberately pay more for "something nice" and get it screwed up like this.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I know he didn't change the oil, but was this tumbling around upside down? Tied to a burro in the Grand Canyon?

Boggles my mind that someone would deliberately pay more for "something nice" and get it screwed up like this.
 
Nice write up. Honda OPE hate ethanol. If you can't buy gas without it, use a can of 4 cycle Trufuel - amazing stuff. Once you get it running well, you can mix Trufuel with gas or just use non ethanol if available. On cars, use what grade they recommend, but on Honda OPE premium works best.

I've been using M1 10W-30 for about the last 25 years on many Honda OPE. Innards all look like new. Never had to add a drop. Never a failure.

Don't go nuts on Seafoam - over 2% can cause problems on rubber, seals, and gaskets.

Keep us informed on your commendable progress.
 
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Thanks gents! This morning after the overnight soaking of the piston/chamber/cylinder in GM Top End Cleaner it fired up, made a cloud of gray smoke while more liquified carbon burnt off, and then cleared right up. No visible smoke out the exhaust now. Still needs 3/4 choke, though.

Honda dealer opens at 9am and I've made a list of carb parts...bowl gasket, base gasket, pilot screw/spring/cap.

I'm going to hold off the intake valve stem seal for now as it doesn't appear to be burning oil any more. Possibly one or more stuck rings on the piston that are freeing up after the GM cleaner soakdown. It's making more compression than initially...pulling the starter slowly, TDC was barely noticeable at the outset but now it builds resistance. My compression gauge is too big for the tiny spark plug hole unfortunately.
 
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Originally Posted By: user52165
Nice write up. Honda OPE hate ethanol. If you can't buy gas without it, use a can of 4 cycle Trufuel - amazing stuff.


Absolutely. We use this at work in the portable gens and snow blowers, terrific stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I know he didn't change the oil, but was this tumbling around upside down? Tied to a burro in the Grand Canyon?

Boggles my mind that someone would deliberately pay more for "something nice" and get it screwed up like this.


The engine and interior of the case looks like it has seen burro duty in the dust bowl. I've been wiping down the interior surfaces with 409 and cleaning out the crevices, case and other removable plastics got washed in the utility room sink.

New NGK plug is gapped and installed, changed the oil again after all that GM cleaner and it was nasty again. Ran out of Rotella T5 so it's filled with Valvoline VR1 10W-30. Washed the foam air filter and oiled with K&N filter oil. Cleaned and re-installed the cyl head cover with a thin bead of black RTV.

Only show-stopper is the pilot needle valve...no shops in the area have it. I ordered one and should be here in a few days, in the interim the stub of the tamper-proof one is held in place with a toothpick wedge at just over 2.5 turns from seat per the shop manual (2-5/8 turns).

Engine purrs like a kitten, throttle snaps cleanly when load is added, no visible exhaust smoke. I'm waiting to install the plastic case for the pilot needle to arrive so the carb's easy to access, apart from that it appears to be done. Fun project!
 
It's difficult to get a compression reading on small engines these days. Everything has a decompression mechanism it seems.

I was going to do a compression test on the Yamaha EF2000 and realized that it wouldn't be accurate due to having a decompression mechanism. It's only a 79cc engine, a three year old should be able to turn that over. Heavens forbid if you have to pull more than twice!

Mechanical over-kill for the limpest of wrists.

By the way, not sure if you have much experience with inverter generators but, I recently found out that in cold temperatures, the Yamaha engine will not immediately idle down for eco mode. Usually, after firing up at high throttle, within a couple seconds, it settles down. When cold, around 32F, it will take thirty seconds to a minute, sometimes a bit longer to settle into eco mode.

Not sure it Honda is the same?
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus

By the way, not sure if you have much experience with inverter generators but, I recently found out that in cold temperatures, the Yamaha engine will not immediately idle down for eco mode. Usually, after firing up at high throttle, within a couple seconds, it settles down. When cold, around 32F, it will take thirty seconds to a minute, sometimes a bit longer to settle into eco mode.

Not sure it Honda is the same?


I recall that behavior from the neighbor's Yamaha EF2400ishc as well (big Nor'Easter after the hurricane last year dumped snow on us), the owner's manual described that high idle at cold startup temp as a design feature.

That was a nice generator but the gas tank was too small and fitting with an extended run tank looked painful.

As for the Honda, dunno but it looks like we'll be finding out.
 
May one ask how much you paid for this unit?

I just can't understand why someone would buy a relatively expensive version of a generator, abuse it until it stops running, then simply sell it for a loss. Good deal for you, though...
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
May one ask how much you paid for this unit?

I just can't understand why someone would buy a relatively expensive version of a generator, abuse it until it stops running, then simply sell it for a loss. Good deal for you, though...
thumbsup2.gif



$300 and it was a gamble that at least the electronic components would be salvageable. The engine being a relatively easy fix was a pleasant surprise, as it had near-zero compression when I pulled the starter cord at the time. Kill-A-Watt meter shows it makes same V output at wattage loads of 0, 800, 1500W as my nearly new EU2000i Companion.

I checked the valve lash against spec before reinstalling the head cover and the clearance was on the tight side of the tolerance so the cam didn't even take a hit as the old oil degraded. People bash the plastic cam but this one held up to a lot of abuse.

When the pilot needle kit (needle, spring, tamper-proof cap...$12.95) arrives it will get installed and one last QC run conducted before reassembling it into the case and putting it up for sale.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord

I just can't understand why someone would buy a relatively expensive version of a generator, abuse it until it stops running, then simply sell it for a loss. Good deal for you, though...
thumbsup2.gif



Some people are willing to pay extra for the maintenance free model
wink.gif
 
what a find!

I'd have been nervous even at $300, but you've got to pay to play. This one seems like it will definitely work out in your favor.

You've had good success with the chemicals. At some point it's quicker to just pull it completely apart, start soaking, scraping and cleaning.

nice job!
 
quick question…Can you buy a new plastic cover to replace one that is all scratched up? I bought one that was a mess and need it replaced.

Thx
 
Originally Posted By: jberry
quick question…Can you buy a new plastic cover to replace one that is all scratched up? I bought one that was a mess and need it replaced.

Thx


Honda Power Equipment dealer near me seems to be able to get just about anything that has a part #. Might be worth a Google/Bing search for Honda generator parts.
 
I have a customer that has 9 EU2000i’s all of which were purchased at the same time and one of them started smoking.
It is used for air sample testing which requires a continuous nonstop 24 hour run.
They all receive the same scheduled maintenance but this is the only one that smokes.
It starts & runs good but has heavy smoke from exhaust.
After reading this post it sounds like the valve seals may be the issue.
What is the probability of the rings being bad or possibly broken?
Thanks
Ducati996
 
Sounds like a fun hobby/side job, plus you have the pleasure of bringing an abused machine back to life.
 
Quote:
Broke the darn tamper-resistant idle mixture needle just like the shop manual said and it's still in there for now.


Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have exactly the same problem. I bought a second-hand carburettor for my Honda lawnmower on eBay and the mixture screw seems to be broken off almost flush with the casing. How do I get it out? There's nothing to grip, and I can't Dremel a slot on the end without also putting a large slot in the casing.

Help!
 
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