Rotella T6 syn 5w40 in Hyundai Di 2.0T?

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wemay

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Anyone using this oil in a Hyundai/Kia di turbo? What about this oil for di or turbo engines in general? Curious...
I used the EDGE w/ti in my wifes car instead of mine as originally planned. Hyundai spec calls for 5w30 in the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T but I have read that the other Hyundai Turbo's allow 5w40.
 
If I were going to use a 40 grade I would use M1 0w40. It is about the same price and it is more appropriate IMO. I would follow the owners manual and run a good major 5w30 syn like you are using in your wifes car. Edge w Ti seems to be a great oil. I don't think you could go wrong with any HT0-6 spec oil (M1. PP, Edge w/Ti even the new QSUD is spec'd I think) just because it is a very stringent turbo test Honda uses. Either way follow the warranty. I have used M1 0w40 in my 2.4 Sonata. It ran great but I really doubt it needed it.
 
Use 5w30 for the warranty period.

Almost any synthetic 5w30 will meet the HTO-06 spec that chubbs mentioned. Yes, QSUD does meet HTO-06.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Use 5w30 for the warranty period.

Almost any synthetic 5w30 will meet the HTO-06 spec that chubbs mentioned. Yes, QSUD does meet HTO-06.



There is no required viscosity, only recommended: sections/pages = 8.7 & 8.8/579 & 580

*1 : For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use the engine oil of a viscosity grade SAE 5W-30 (API SM / ILSAC GF-4).

If the API service SM engine oil is not available in your country, you are able to use API service SL.
 
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Not so fast.
It clearly says to use 5w30 or 10w30.

Here is the owners manual, page 580

Also, page 507 is relevant. It says "Use only the specified engine oil" the same oil mentioned on 580.

Do you really think they'd pay a warranty claim on someone that used 0w20 way too thin for a turbo? NO WAY!

Hyundai's lawyers will have none of it.

There are plenty of good options in the recommended 5w30 grade that have been discussed itt. Use one of those. We're not about to tell someone to void their warranty and---

Wait, you know what? Something came to me.

Shell makes a Rotella T5 synthetic blend, in 10w30.
 
Direct quote from 507 or 508:

Use only the specified engine oil. (Refer to “Recommended lubricants and capacities” in section 8.)

Yes so fast, you are incorrect. It clearly recommends 5w30 or 10w30. No where does it say those weights are required. Read it again, carefully....

Even the page is titled RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOCITY NUMBERS, not 'required.'
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Good banter btw.
 
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Genesis with same engine has in its OM... 'for improved performance, 5w40 can be used.'
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Even the page is titled RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOCITY NUMBERS, not 'required.'

Note that the reference page states that using "oils of any
viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage." It doesn't say that using "oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage, but we don't care and will cover it under warranty without a second thought." They are also relatively clear that they prefer an ILSAC rated oil.

Now, you can look at this a couple ways. Sure, if you use something else and you have troubles, you might be able to hold the automaker to warranty coverage. I bet Hyundai has more money at their disposal for lawyers than you do, though.

On the other hand, the chances of having an oil related issue while using something even moderately reasonable are pretty slim. And then look at the probability of having a fight. I haven't had to deal with an oil related warranty issue ever, in millions of miles.

Technically, I started using Delvac 1 ESP in my G, contrary to manual recommendations, before the end of warranty. But, I did wait until near the end of warranty.

I don't see a huge problem with using a reasonable 0w-40 or a 5w-40 in your vehicle. Note, though, that I don't see a problem using the specified 5w-30, and also that my opinion is irrelevant, since I don't underwrite Hyundai's warranty or sign off on all their warranty claims.

Nonetheless, your point about wording is valid, and we've discussed that here a lot. Look at page 8-6 again. If one really wants to be picky, it's actually calling for a an SM/GF-4/A5 lubricant. Whereas if it were me, I'd be tempted to grab QSGB 5w-30 and use it without hesitation, I can't think of any A5/B5 conventional lubricants.
 
Thank you. So many of these manuals drive me nuts. The problem is that it seems no one ever takes the oil specification page(s) and rips them up and starts fresh, or, for that matter, writes them while sober.

I've seen manuals make allusions to 5w-40 conventional, resource conserving 40 grades, and other non-existent nonsense. Even the G's manual has phantom references to "other viscosities" and "viscosity choices" on various pages, yet only 5w-30 explicitly mentioned and recommended/required. Looking at previous years' manuals shows they simply yanked certain lines and updated references to older API and ILSAC specifications.

My OM states in one instance, "The engine oil viscosity or thickness changes with temperature. Because of this, it is important that the engine oil viscosity be selected based on the temperatures at which the vehicle will be operated before the next oil change. Choosing an oil viscosity other than that recommended could cause serious engine damage."

This is meaningless nonsense, because, aside from the first sentence, it's all contradictory. Okay, select a viscosity based on the temperature at which the vehicle will be operated before the next oil change, using a recommended viscosity. Now, considering the only recommended viscosity is 5w-30 SM/GF-4 or better, what kind of viscosity choice does one have?

Here's a quote from the FSM: "Select only engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification and International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) certification and SAE viscosity standard." The emphasis is mine. Compare to the wording in the OM: "Select only engine oils that meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification or International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) certification and SAE viscosity standard." The emphasis is mine, again. I'd say it's fairly certain that they want one to use a 5w-30 in SM/GF-4 or better, but they sure take the long way around it. Simply put, "and" and "or" are not synonyms, and one can have API approval without ILSAC certification, but not the other way around. One cannot meet either without following the SAE viscosity standard in the first place, so why mention that at all?

They'll have fifty pages dedicated to how to use a seatbelt to avoid liability issues, yet many cannot make a clear, concise oil recommendation page.
 
COMPLETELY AGREE! For instance, they also recommend QS. If 'recommend' were understood to be a requirement, the warranty could be voided if Pennzoil were used. If using anything other than the recommended SM or SL, etc...

At least the OCI intervals are clear:

Maintenance

'The following maintenance services must be performed to ensure good emission control and performance.
Keep receipts for all vehicle emission services to protect your warranty. Where both mileage and time are shown, the frequency of service is determined by whichever occurs first.


.*6 : Engine oil (2.0 TGDI) At first, replace at 3,000 miles (5,000 km) or 6 months, after that, every 5,000 miles (8,000 km) or 6 months.

(This is how a requirement is written)

While pulling my hair out
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Originally Posted By: wemay
COMPLETELY AGREE! For instance, they also recommend QS. If 'recommend' were understood to be a requirement, the warranty could be voided if Pennzoil were used. If using anything other than the recommended SM or SL, etc...

And that only adds to the confusion. We know they can't insist upon a brand, but recommending QS can be problematic. Do they mean SN/GF-5 5w-30 QSGB or SN/GF-5 5w-30 QSUD which seems to carry the A5 spec as well? We as BITOGers mostly would agree they are really recommending QS and not requiring it, matching their wording. But, we as BITOGers mostly would agree they aren't simply recommending, as they word it, 5w-30 SM/GF-4 or better, considering they have an "or else" qualifier.

Generally, yes, the intervals are clearer. Changing mileage and time intervals in a manual is obviously easier for them than cutting and pasting when it comes to viscosity.
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It is interesting to note that they do recommend an oil change early on.
 
Just use what's recommended. T6 is great stuff, but if you think it's going to magically make your engine last longer than it would with the recommended oil, you're wrong.
 
I'd use a stout 5w30 pennzoil Platinum which meets the Honda/Acura spec for turbocharged engines like yours. PP5w30 worked very well in my Turbo Mazda according to several UOAs using a 6,ooo mile oil change interval. Ed
 
Use this if you can get your hands on it :

Valvoline Maxlife Full Syn 5w30


It does not list Acura/Honda HTO-06 spec. It does meet/exceed Dexos1 requirements which is what GM/BUICK/CADILLAC/CHEVY recommend using in their turbo engines and is a newer spec. It starts on the thicker end of the 5w30 spectrum and should help with the dilution issues from having a DI engine.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Just to many fantastic reviews on this lube by those on other forums (specifically di turbos), for me not to try. Purchased the Rotella T6 5w40 and changed the oil this morning. AAP special $19 for the 3.78 qt jug and $5 for the added qt for a perfect fill.

Enjoy your day.
 
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
3.78 liter


sorry, 1 Gal / 3.78 liters
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Sorry not trying to bust your chops. I have brain farts on the regular. I wonder how this product would perform in my SL2.
 
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