I have a quick question. My 4.0L Dodge Caravan specs for 10w-30. I only run Mobil 1 EP in it. My local Wal Mart was out of the 10w30 EP so I bought the last jug of 5w. The owners manual specs for only 10w30 in the van. Is it going to harm anything using 5w30? It's still 30 weight, if anything I may get better efficiency during the cold IL winters being slightly thinner. Thanks for any opinion!
5w-30 instead of 10w-30
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absolutely no difference, You're fine
carguy996, keep in mind that Chrysler spec's a 10W-30 dino, so the M1 5W-30 synthetic your using is clearly superior in every way.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
carguy996, keep in mind that Chrysler spec's a 10W-30 dino, so the M1 5W-30 synthetic your using is clearly superior in every way.
I agree.
If you are going to keep running M1 EP, you should stick to the 5w30.
carguy996, keep in mind that Chrysler spec's a 10W-30 dino, so the M1 5W-30 synthetic your using is clearly superior in every way.
I agree.
If you are going to keep running M1 EP, you should stick to the 5w30.
Only one problem with using M1 in that engine. Most Chrysler vehicles require an oil that carries the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, which M1 does not. If it's still under warranty, I would use an oil that carries the proper spec.
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
Only one problem with using M1 in that engine. Most Chrysler vehicles require an oil that carries the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, which M1 does not. If it's still under warranty, I would use an oil that carries the proper spec.
yeah but if an when a warranty claim were to come up and they sent the oil for testing and see its superior in all ways they can't use that against you.. Magnusson-Moss.. What a wonderful thing.. Same thing as with using Amsoil Signature Series they can't say [censored] cause it exceeds any spec they put on they're oil
Only one problem with using M1 in that engine. Most Chrysler vehicles require an oil that carries the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, which M1 does not. If it's still under warranty, I would use an oil that carries the proper spec.
yeah but if an when a warranty claim were to come up and they sent the oil for testing and see its superior in all ways they can't use that against you.. Magnusson-Moss.. What a wonderful thing.. Same thing as with using Amsoil Signature Series they can't say [censored] cause it exceeds any spec they put on they're oil
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Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
Only one problem with using M1 in that engine. Most Chrysler vehicles require an oil that carries the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, which M1 does not. If it's still under warranty, I would use an oil that carries the proper spec.
yeah but if an when a warranty claim were to come up and they sent the oil for testing and see its superior in all ways they can't use that against you.. Magnusson-Moss.. What a wonderful thing.. Same thing as with using Amsoil Signature Series they can't say [censored] cause it exceeds any spec they put on they're oil
Actually, what it means is that they can't REQUIRE you to use an OEM branded oil. However, if you use an oil that isn't approved, and they DO prove that it caused the failure, they are not obligated to cover it and can void your warranty.
Magnuson-Moss is not carte-blanche to do whatever you want to your vehicle with no risk of repercussions. It is there to prevent manufacturers from forcing you to use OEM-branded replacement and service parts. Which is why we have oil certifications/approvals (required by many euro marques) that ANY oil company can obtain, giving a guarantee of performance for a particular lubricant and also an endorsement from the OEM that the product meets their performance requirements.
If you use a cheap Chinese ball joint that doesn't meet Ford's performance requirements instead of Moog or Motorcraft and it breaks and you get in an accident, should Ford be on the hook to give you a new car because YOU cheaped out? Of course not. So if you use 0w-20 in a twin-turbo BMW and it doesn't meet LL-01 (which it can't, but anyway) and you lunch every bearing in the motor, BMW isn't going to be giving you a new engine either, regardless of whether you claim the oil is full-on awesomesauce or not.
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
Only one problem with using M1 in that engine. Most Chrysler vehicles require an oil that carries the Chrysler MS-6395 spec, which M1 does not. If it's still under warranty, I would use an oil that carries the proper spec.
yeah but if an when a warranty claim were to come up and they sent the oil for testing and see its superior in all ways they can't use that against you.. Magnusson-Moss.. What a wonderful thing.. Same thing as with using Amsoil Signature Series they can't say [censored] cause it exceeds any spec they put on they're oil
Actually, what it means is that they can't REQUIRE you to use an OEM branded oil. However, if you use an oil that isn't approved, and they DO prove that it caused the failure, they are not obligated to cover it and can void your warranty.
Magnuson-Moss is not carte-blanche to do whatever you want to your vehicle with no risk of repercussions. It is there to prevent manufacturers from forcing you to use OEM-branded replacement and service parts. Which is why we have oil certifications/approvals (required by many euro marques) that ANY oil company can obtain, giving a guarantee of performance for a particular lubricant and also an endorsement from the OEM that the product meets their performance requirements.
If you use a cheap Chinese ball joint that doesn't meet Ford's performance requirements instead of Moog or Motorcraft and it breaks and you get in an accident, should Ford be on the hook to give you a new car because YOU cheaped out? Of course not. So if you use 0w-20 in a twin-turbo BMW and it doesn't meet LL-01 (which it can't, but anyway) and you lunch every bearing in the motor, BMW isn't going to be giving you a new engine either, regardless of whether you claim the oil is full-on awesomesauce or not.
No but they have to show that the oil doesn't meet/exceed the specs.. Which is very unlikely possible as just basic off the shelf oils meet it.
You still had to run manufacturer spec'd weight in it.
But you can run whatever interval you want. If an Extended OCI is the cause of the failure then your up a creek and ya know
You still had to run manufacturer spec'd weight in it.
But you can run whatever interval you want. If an Extended OCI is the cause of the failure then your up a creek and ya know
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Originally Posted By: Flareside302
No but they have to show that the oil doesn't meet/exceed the specs.. Which is very unlikely possible as just basic off the shelf oils meet it.
This is of course very application dependant (I'm speaking in more general terms here) but they simply have to prove the oil caused the failure if the oil isn't approved for the application.
For pedestrian applications, you are right, it is unlikely to be an issue. For many high performance apps and Euro stuff, things can go sideways much easier, LOL!
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You still had to run manufacturer spec'd weight in it.
But you can run whatever interval you want. If an Extended OCI is the cause of the failure then your up a creek and ya know
Pretty much. You are required to follow the guidelines put forth in your users manual for service and what needs to be used FOR service. If you step outside of those guidelines and DO have an issue, then you can very easily be on your own.
No but they have to show that the oil doesn't meet/exceed the specs.. Which is very unlikely possible as just basic off the shelf oils meet it.
This is of course very application dependant (I'm speaking in more general terms here) but they simply have to prove the oil caused the failure if the oil isn't approved for the application.
For pedestrian applications, you are right, it is unlikely to be an issue. For many high performance apps and Euro stuff, things can go sideways much easier, LOL!
Quote:
You still had to run manufacturer spec'd weight in it.
But you can run whatever interval you want. If an Extended OCI is the cause of the failure then your up a creek and ya know
Pretty much. You are required to follow the guidelines put forth in your users manual for service and what needs to be used FOR service. If you step outside of those guidelines and DO have an issue, then you can very easily be on your own.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Im surprised a 2010 minivan specs a 10w30.
Leave it to Chrysler, I guess. The Dart thread mentioned a specification/grade combination that is very hard to come by. Yet, in a minivan, they call for 10w-30. Party like it's 1979!
Im surprised a 2010 minivan specs a 10w30.
Leave it to Chrysler, I guess. The Dart thread mentioned a specification/grade combination that is very hard to come by. Yet, in a minivan, they call for 10w-30. Party like it's 1979!
10W-30 will give you a thicker, more protective film thickness at startup.
Whoa whoa whoa....you're taking everything I thought I knew about oil viscosities and flipping it upside-down.
I thought '...thicker...' and '...more protective...at startup.' were two different things?
The engine is cold at most startups. Having a lower first number at startup is better, correct?
I thought '...thicker...' and '...more protective...at startup.' were two different things?
The engine is cold at most startups. Having a lower first number at startup is better, correct?
Ignore him. You're both in California and should be relegated to monogrades out of the principle of the thing since you don't have anything approaching a real winter.
If it were me, assuming there is no warranty nonsense to worry about, I'd stick to a 5w-30 year round. The only concession I'd grant Merkava in this is that 5w-30 MaxLife would happen to be a very nice choice.
In all seriousness, that specific choice was able to hold oil pressure very well in my F-150 when it was subject to a lot of fuel dilution, doing much better than "normal" 5w-30 grades. That was my first experience with high mileage oils, and it did demonstrate that at least in certain circumstances, they do give you a little something extra for the extra cost.
If it were me, assuming there is no warranty nonsense to worry about, I'd stick to a 5w-30 year round. The only concession I'd grant Merkava in this is that 5w-30 MaxLife would happen to be a very nice choice.
In all seriousness, that specific choice was able to hold oil pressure very well in my F-150 when it was subject to a lot of fuel dilution, doing much better than "normal" 5w-30 grades. That was my first experience with high mileage oils, and it did demonstrate that at least in certain circumstances, they do give you a little something extra for the extra cost.
When you shut your engine off, all that hot 5W-30 runs down into the pan.
10W-30 leaves you a nice protective film thickness for the next startup.
10W-30 leaves you a nice protective film thickness for the next startup.
Merkava, I strongly disagree that a 5W-30 will run into the pan and a 10W-30 will leave a larger amount of oil up top...
I've never pulled apart a dry engine yet, and the oil film that is left after run down gives a level of protection (whether it's 20 or 50 weight) in the time between hitting the starter, and oil flowing out the rockers...unless it's a ridiculously inappropriate viscosity for the temperature (and I suspect) and ADBV is left out for artistic licence.
Agreeing with Caterham, that a 5W-30 synthetic trumps a 10W-30 dino most days.
I've never pulled apart a dry engine yet, and the oil film that is left after run down gives a level of protection (whether it's 20 or 50 weight) in the time between hitting the starter, and oil flowing out the rockers...unless it's a ridiculously inappropriate viscosity for the temperature (and I suspect) and ADBV is left out for artistic licence.
Agreeing with Caterham, that a 5W-30 synthetic trumps a 10W-30 dino most days.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
When you shut your engine off, all that hot 5W-30 runs down into the pan.
that hot oil will have the same "flow" between the two. Wrong answer.
When you shut your engine off, all that hot 5W-30 runs down into the pan.
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Thats such a wrong answer.. The have nearly identical flow rates when hot.. So one can't possibly "stay up top" longer..
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