1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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I don't think that "radiator support" is what you need. You already have that...it's what's holding your headlights and grill in place, and what your radiator is wired to.

It looks like you're missing some radiator attachment hardware or bracketry.

Or you have the wrong radiator installed...
 
Someone mentioned the Sunfire was probably worth about $200....probably not far off the mark.

You've invested far more in the Blazer....are you ready to do it again? All for 6 months of State inspection?
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
Someone mentioned the Sunfire was probably worth about $200....probably not far off the mark.

You've invested far more in the Blazer....are you ready to do it again? All for 6 months of State inspection?


I sort of think I may leave the Inspection alone, and just replace the 02 sensor because it will likely improve performance. $30 or so part, and I may be able to get it put in for cheap (?) - Might leave the "Rejected" sticker up for a long time, and pay for private inspection sticker down the road, maybe when I have two jobs...

And what is the WORST they can do if I bring it to inspection again? At the Secaucus facility?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Plus. How big IS a water pump job on this one?


It's a half hour if you know what you're doing.

But then, timing the engine is a 5 minute job if you know what you're doing.

Since timing it took you, what, a week? I would say that a water pump will take months....

You said you have the manual for this. Grab the manual, open the hood, look at each part as you read through the manual.
 
The water pump is an easy job - just make sure to clean off ALL the old gasket. The hardest part will be getting the fan off; I use a service wrench and a rubber mallet.

You should check out the fan clutch since you will have it out.
 
There's no sense in worrying about the fan clutch if there hasn't been any overheating issues. Even if there were, the weather's getting cooler and it wouldn't be worth bothering with until springtime. By then this truck might have been replaced three times over. You've got to put some fires out before you dam the river or something like that. Rome wasn't built in a pile of beans.
1- stop the coolant leak
2- stop the ATF leak
3- stop the exhaust leak
4- get it running again because it died again
5- stop the other leak that you made when you got it running
6- fix the emissions
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I sort of think I may leave the Inspection alone, - Might leave the "Rejected" sticker up for a long time, and pay for private inspection sticker down the road, maybe when I have two jobs...
I don't know about NJ, but in MA you have 60 days to get the car re-inspected if it failed for emissions.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
I don't think that "radiator support" is what you need. You already have that...it's what's holding your headlights and grill in place, and what your radiator is wired to.

It looks like you're missing some radiator attachment hardware or bracketry.

Or you have the wrong radiator installed...




I think I need this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-93-S10-PICKUP...940&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-93-S10-Pickup...cef&vxp=mtr


Correct--you need the upper and lower shroud pieces. Are there any junkyards near you? You could buy one outright, or learn how it goes in (and get all of the right hardware) by pulling it yourself.

I drove a Sunfire rental in 2001. It was a year or two old, and a piece of junk already. I can't imagine buying one that's been beat on for 10 or 15 years.
 
Originally Posted By: Rhymingmechanic
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
I don't think that "radiator support" is what you need. You already have that...it's what's holding your headlights and grill in place, and what your radiator is wired to.

It looks like you're missing some radiator attachment hardware or bracketry.

Or you have the wrong radiator installed...




I think I need this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-93-S10-PICKUP...940&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-93-S10-Pickup...cef&vxp=mtr


Correct--you need the upper and lower shroud pieces. Are there any junkyards near you? You could buy one outright, or learn how it goes in (and get all of the right hardware) by pulling it yourself.

I drove a Sunfire rental in 2001. It was a year or two old, and a piece of junk already. I can't imagine buying one that's been beat on for 10 or 15 years.


The Blazer runs really well, just gets bad has mileage with Code 44. I get like 15MPGs.

O2 sensor, replace. Yes?
 
Wait, so its timed now???!???!

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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
Someone mentioned the Sunfire was probably worth about $200....probably not far off the mark.

You've invested far more in the Blazer....are you ready to do it again? All for 6 months of State inspection?


I sort of think I may leave the Inspection alone, and just replace the 02 sensor because it will likely improve performance. $30 or so part, and I may be able to get it put in for cheap (?) - Might leave the "Rejected" sticker up for a long time, and pay for private inspection sticker down the road, maybe when I have two jobs...

And what is the WORST they can do if I bring it to inspection again? At the Secaucus facility?


What does the Rejected sticker get you? If it buys you time, leave it. If it gets you a free reinspect leave it. If it only tells cops you flunked, scrape it off.
 
It buys time. If one spends more than $500 in parts (personal repair), or parts and labor (at a certified shop), you get a pass for two years...

I had a reject once for NOx, but I wanted it fixed, so I didnt pay attention to how long I could stretch it.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
What does the Rejected sticker get you? If it buys you time, leave it. If it gets you a free reinspect leave it. If it only tells cops you flunked, scrape it off.


The down side to scraping the sticker off is that if you happen to get pulled over and manage to [censored] off the cop the scraped rejection sticker is the same as a fake inspection sticker: about four times the fine of expired or rejected. Technologs, if you do decide to scrape it, get all of the glue off. Use water and a razor blade. The glue is kind of a giveaway. Anyone who wants to can walk up to your truck, see the VIN, and check to see if there's supposed to be a red sticker there.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It buys time. If one spends more than $500 in parts (personal repair), or parts and labor (at a certified shop), you get a pass for two years...

This is no longer true. The waiver is no longer available. You also can't fail for NOx in the first place anymore. There also used to be a 45 day grace period after failing which no longer exists. Currently if you fail inspection it is effectively the same as if you never had it done.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon


Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It buys time. If one spends more than $500 in parts (personal repair), or parts and labor (at a certified shop), you get a pass for two years...

This is no longer true. The waiver is no longer available. You also can't fail for NOx in the first place anymore. There also used to be a 45 day grace period after failing which no longer exists. Currently if you fail inspection it is effectively the same as if you never had it done.


NJAC 13:20-7.5 says one month.

So this is interesting. They did away with safety inspection to save money... Yet they also did away with the $500 bill as an alternate way of getting junkers off the road, I guess.

They still sniff my 91 as it doesnt have OBDII. I dont think it goes on a dyno though...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Wait, so its timed now???!???!

banana2.gif
happy2.gif
thumbsup2.gif



Yessir! I bought the HF timing light, returned it, and used it to turn the distributor all the way. This made the timing mark nore or less perfectly align with the deepest groove, and it is now timed! Runs "OK" too, just some vacuum leak behavior now.
thumbsup2.gif
And a slight miss, shakes at idle warmed but not much else bad except the 02 sensor thing, which is probably why I get like 15MPG exact..

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: yonyon


Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It buys time. If one spends more than $500 in parts (personal repair), or parts and labor (at a certified shop), you get a pass for two years...

This is no longer true. The waiver is no longer available. You also can't fail for NOx in the first place anymore. There also used to be a 45 day grace period after failing which no longer exists. Currently if you fail inspection it is effectively the same as if you never had it done.


NJAC 13:20-7.5 says one month.

So this is interesting. They did away with safety inspection to save money... Yet they also did away with the $500 bill as an alternate way of getting junkers off the road, I guess.

They still sniff my 91 as it doesnt have OBDII. I dont think it goes on a dyno though...


I brought mine to Secaucus twice, and once all they did was bring it up to the sniffer. The first time, they checked the horn.

I always thought the "Rejected" sticker, though advertising to everyone that your car failed (I hate that,) was fine to drive around with, as it is not dated and that 30 days could be from anytime.

And yes, I have Lo Gs.
laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
JHZR2 said:
Wait, so its timed now???!???!

banana2.gif
happy2.gif
thumbsup2.gif



Yessir! I bought the HF timing light, returned it, and used it to turn the distributor all the way. This made the timing mark nore or less perfectly align with the deepest groove, and it is now timed! Runs "OK" too, just some vacuum leak behavior now.
thumbsup2.gif
And a slight miss, shakes at idle warmed but not much else bad except the 02 sensor thing, which is probably why I get like 15MPG

Whoa.
Wadaya mean turned all the way,the timing marks are on the crank,not the distributor.
And if its shaking at idle you've retarded the timing too much. What rpms while in neutral will it rev too before it sounds like its coming apart.
Does the raw fuel smell from the exhaust stronger now or less.
Dude. From the explanation you just gave as far as adjusting timing you didn't do it right.
How much did you turn the distributor to get it dialled in. If you turned it even 1/4" its wrong and something is wrong.
I had my timing way advanced(on purpose) and from 12 degrees to 16 degrees advance it turned a fraction. Like 2 taps with my ratchet.
How many rpm before it sounds like it breaking up.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
JHZR2 said:
Wait, so its timed now???!???!

banana2.gif
happy2.gif
thumbsup2.gif



Yessir! I bought the HF timing light, returned it, and used it to turn the distributor all the way. This made the timing mark nore or less perfectly align with the deepest groove, and it is now timed! Runs "OK" too, just some vacuum leak behavior now.
thumbsup2.gif
And a slight miss, shakes at idle warmed but not much else bad except the 02 sensor thing, which is probably why I get like 15MPG

Whoa.
Wadaya mean turned all the way,the timing marks are on the crank,not the distributor.
And if its shaking at idle you've retarded the timing too much. What rpms while in neutral will it rev too before it sounds like its coming apart.
Does the raw fuel smell from the exhaust stronger now or less.
Dude. From the explanation you just gave as far as adjusting timing you didn't do it right.
How much did you turn the distributor to get it dialled in. If you turned it even 1/4" its wrong and something is wrong.
I had my timing way advanced(on purpose) and from 12 degrees to 16 degrees advance it turned a fraction. Like 2 taps with my ratchet.
How many rpm before it sounds like it breaking up.


The raw fuel smell appears less
"Turning it all the way" made the mark line up to what I THOUGHT was 0 degrees BTDC. That timing mark is hard to understand. I went for "in the deepest groove" and got it as close as I could get it.
I had to turn the distributor a lot, then come back to it and watch the timing light mark. Timing light was cheap and being uncooperative. "Dialed it in" to watch the mark, the shaking usually happens when it is hot not so much cold, as to noticeable.....

I just bought a DENSO 02 sensor, just now, on my credit card.

DENSO Part # 2343094 OE Style
UPSTREAM

$28.79

Quote:
Illustration Details

Porous PTFE Filter - Allows atmospheric oxygen to enter the sensor without permitting water or engine contaminants to seep into the casing.
Robotic Laser Weld
Aluminum-Oxide Trap Layer - Keeps silicone and lead outside the ceramic elient through DENSO's exclusive design, preventing damage to the platinum electrode.
Stainless Steel Housing - Resists corrosion and contamination with a rugged, watertight body.
Double Protection Cover - Maintains proper unit temperature for quicker response times and protects the ceramic element against silicone and lead poisoning.

Features

Corrosion-resistant stainless steel construction
PTFE filter blocks efficiency-robbing contaminants
Refined zirconia element improves sensor response

Benefits

Superior design maximizes engine performance and fuel efficiency while reducing fuel consumption and harmful emissions
First Time Fit® delivers the right part the first time
Ensures smog test compliance


As to the idle.. I think a video is in order.
 
I also am hearing the "suck" sound again when I turn it off, but no/greatly reduced "wanting to diesel" shaking when it is shut off.
 
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