NuFinish - what am I missing out on?

[The Critic]

Over the years, I have seen many recommendations for NuFinish. I have used the stuff once and had a poor experience (stains trim, plasticky appearance, above-avg amount of dust), but it was an older bottle and my skill level may not be what it is today. I also do not remember the product having any of the desirable qualities of current sealants and coatings – which is why I never gave it another chance.

My understanding is that NuFinish is an all-in-one type product with some light cleaning capabilities. Older versions were supposedly more abrasive but the formulation has changed multiple times over the years.

To date, here are the products I have used:

1) Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Pro: surface is extremely slick during washing (it’s seriously slick as snot), car stays very clean between washes (dirt-repelling feature), lifetime coating.
Con: requires careful surface prep

2) Menzenra Powerlock
Pro: Extremely slick surface while washing, great gloss, super easy application (as long as you clay the surface beforehand and allow to dry for 45 min)
Con: pricier than most sealants

3) Collinite 845
Pro: Long lasting
Con: Application process is finicky (doesn’t like the slightest bit of sun), smell, thin consistency (personal preference)

4) Duragloss 105
Pro: Inexpensive, fairly long lasting
Con: Not dirt repelling, surface was not very slick during washing (compared to opti-coat or Menzerna Powerlock), stained trim (IIRC)

Anyway, I have been very happy with Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 and Menzerna PowerLock. Basically, I am looking for a product that has a long life, makes car washing extremely easy, allows the paint to repel dirt between washes, and adds a slight deep/glossy appearance. If the product is reported to have those qualities, then I am usually interested in giving it a try.

So, is NuFinish able to deliver in all of those areas? Am I missing out on anything?

Just curious. Thanks.

 

[97tbird]

It's like Bose and Monster Cable probably - pretty ordinary (in the examples' case even sub-par, when one considers Bose and Monster cable - awful products 95% of the time) products with great marketing, and a lot of followers.

 

[EricF]

I've used NuFinish to polish my windshield, it removes the road grime easily.
I've polished my car when it wasn't exactly clean. It works very well.

However, it's a polish, designed to bring out the shine.
Wax protects everything under it.

So in essense, you should wash, clay, polish, wax.

 

[97tbird]

Originally Posted By: EricF

I've polished my car when it wasn't exactly clean. It works very well.

WHA? so you are grinding existing dirt/contaminants into the paint or what? (when you polish over dirt).
I mean, you say the wax protects what's underneath it...you mean it's protecting the dirt that the polish was applied on? I am confused.

 

[JHZR2]

I was always under the impression that NuFinish really gave you a new finish - i.e. there was some sort of abrasive/compound in the wax that helped to remove surface oxidation and any surface grime in one step.

I never found it to be very long lasting, and anything with abrasive that I cannot control is questionable to me for use on well-kept cars. But it likely is as good as any other wax on an older car or one that hasnt been well protected and maintained.

 

[steveh]

Its cheap,wipes off easy and beads water for a long time.

 

[Vikas]

Excuse me? When NuFinish starts asking premium price, then you can compare them to Bose and Monster Cable! NuFinsh is probably the cheapest of the stuff that he has ever used. He will never fogive himself if his car were to be touched by any of the so called "low class" sealants

When Bose or Monster Cable marketing guys have their monthly strategy meeting, the PowerPoint presentation has TheCritic's photo as their typical customer! (sorry, Mike

 

[Donald]

If you can avoid getting it on vinyl trim its great stuff.

I just tried Duragloss 501, and it was great. But I am not a detailer, rather a once or twice a year waxer.

 

[panthermike]

I've always used it because it's: cheap, easy to apply/remove, provides a decent shine, and lasts a while.

 

[Eddie]

NF is my favorite. Goes on and come off fairly good. Paint beads up one year or more and gives a decent shine.

 

[Mamala Bay]

NuFinish is water to me. Personally I wouldn't waste my time or put that stuff on a new car. It don't last and it's a gimmick. If you need to clean the surface use a product to clean the surface. Use a product that has no cleaner on the final coat.

One thing to note consumer products sold such as Walmart etc are mostly water to me. Reason MSDS on some strong commercial products there are safety measures which would be hard to sell to normal everyday consumers.

I did know the top detailer here in my area in the 80's and 90's, BMW, Mercedes and Audi would hire him for fast prep work on their vehicles for the annual car show at the Blaisdell Center. He did his work in his own garage one car at a time. Need to leave your vehicle for 3 days. Lot of showroom cars, high end vehicle owners were his costumer. He charged you much higher than any detailer but you got your moneys worth.

He formulated his own products for each vehicle, when working always had nitrile gloves, chemical goggles, respirator, tyvek suit and rubber boots. Must of used some strong stuff!

 

[Rolla07]

I use Nu Finish regularly. I apply a coat in November and it beads til Spring easily. Its garbage on trim but if you keep it off the trim i like it. I have collinite 845 and find them similar in shine/durability. I pick it up on clearance got some at target for 5$..the price/quality ratio is excellent. How much are the other products you mentionned? Collinite is easier to use but i paid 18$ for it. If you are going for look...dont bother with nu finish. Its meant to be a polish for those who dont wana wash, clay, polish than wax. I have so many different wax products for different things. Havent tried the other products you mentionned but i use meguiars gold class carnauba for best look..but it doesnt last..im thinking of trying to use nu finish (a polish) followed by collinite 845 to see how it lasts..

Considering you are in Cali you are likely more focused on appearance of your rides, therefore nu finish might not be on your list. I use it for winter durability..aka -25 celsius snow and ice and tons of salt on the roads..withsnow covering your car all winter its hard to be occupied with how nice the paint looks!! LOL

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
NuFinish is water to me. Personally I wouldn't waste my time or put that stuff on a new car. It don't last and it's a gimmick. If you need to clean the surface use a product to clean the surface. Use a product that has no cleaner on the final coat.

One thing to note consumer products sold such as Walmart etc are mostly water to me. Reason MSDS on some strong commercial products there are safety measures which would be hard to sell to normal everyday consumers.

I did know the top detailer here in my area in the 80's and 90's, BMW, Mercedes and Audi would hire him for fast prep work on their vehicles for the annual car show at the Blaisdell Center. He did his work in his own garage one car at a time. Need to leave your vehicle for 3 days. Lot of showroom cars, high end vehicle owners were his costumer. He charged you much higher than any detailer but you got your moneys worth.

He formulated his own products for each vehicle, when working always had nitrile gloves, chemical goggles, respirator, tyvek suit and rubber boots. Must of used some strong stuff!



So you pay someone top dollar to wax your car? You pay likely well over 200$ and you want to compare that to 5$ bottle of nu finish??!! I dont get the point of your post..

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: Donald
If you can avoid getting it on vinyl trim its great stuff.

I just tried Duragloss 501, and it was great. But I am not a detailer, rather a once or twice a year waxer.


You are exactly who Nu Finish wants to market to. My dad is the exact same and uses Nu Finish once a year.
Wasnt intended to compete with high end products. Very durable and a good value thats what its intended to be.

 

[Brybo86]

I have a friend who complains that Nufinish is garbage. He says so basically because it isnt a 10 step process, because obviously if you spend an entire week prepping and applying various coats of clay wax polish wax etc the results will be better for longer.

sadly the case just isnt true...

He is big fan of griots products. he says his "wax" lasts longer than a year. [censored] sorry

I have better things to do with my time

wash
clay
then $10 bottle of nufinish and the car will bead for about 8 months in my experience (even through nasty chicago winters without washing in freezing weather)

absolute best finish? - debatable

best value considering ease of use, price and durability? without a doubt

 

[surfstar]

Is Critic trolling? I mean after all the time he spends on detailing, he's asking about a all-in-one "once a year" product?!?
Good one - you got them

And wasn't the opti-coat supposed to be the end-all? Do it and you're done detailing for years?

Here it is
"Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 provides constant, unyielding protection for the life of your vehicle's finish!"

"Once Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 cures, washing is the only maintenance needed to keep your vehicle looking fantastic."

Either he's asking about NuFinish for a friend/family's car, or its a troll.

 

[thescreensavers]

OP have you looked into BlackFire Wet Diamond Sealant?

Easy on Easy off, long lasting, slick feeling for the first few weeks. Beads like heck. Glossy

 

[qwertydude]

You don't need ridiculous and laborious processes to surpass what NuFinish is capable of.

A simple polish and wax with Collinite will have much longer lasting protection and much better looks than NuFinish.

The reason why NuFinish is raved about by the average schmuck is because in order to have a wax or sealant adhere you need a clean surface. NuFinish cleans with rather harsh abrasives, so most people apply NuFinish by hand and so in order to get a clean surface by hand for the sealant to stick to, harsh abrasives are used in NuFinish.

Better to use a gentler separate polish or compound. Meguiars ultimate line brings formerly professional SMAT abrasives to the consumer level and gives results even by hand never before possible. I'm not exaggerating either. SMAT abrasives is light years ahead in terms of polishing technology. You get cleaner paint, less paint wear, and a shinier finish with actual correcting ability. Then topping with a long lasting wax like Collinite gives you more durability than NuFinish.

Inevitably someone always has to chime in claiming NuFinish has no abrasives. It does and rather harsh abrasives to boot. I always point people to my CD test.

Originally Posted By: qwertydude
People don't believe me and I've gotten into heated arguments with people who swear up and down that NuFinish is not abrasive. But it is abrasive and a rather coarse one too. Here's a picture of the results of my CD test.

On right is NuFinish rubbed between two CD's. On the left is Meguiars M105, ignore the big gouges in the M105 side as those are actually some remnants of NuFinish contaminating the M105 side of the test. Meguiars M105 is the most aggressive polish Meguiars has ever come up with and you can see the NuFinish particles leave much bigger gouges in the CD. That tells you the abrasive particles in NuFinish are much much larger and potentially more damaging. I would never use a power polisher to apply that NuFinish with those kinds of abrasives. Don't believe me when I say NuFinish has abrasives in it? I dare you to try this test. You'll be surprised.

Take a drop of NuFinish and rub it between two CD's. If it's truly 100% non-abrasive like NuFinish and other people claim, then you should get no marks or gouges on the CD, my pure waxes and glazes leave absolutely no marks whatsover. Instead with NuFinish what you'll feel is very large coarse abrasives rolling around between the two CD's. And though it looks like it leaves a decent finish on your paint, it in fact leaves a light haze often covered up by the coating it leaves behind but the fine scratches it leaves behind are there. Take NuFinish and polish a clean CD with a cloth then look at a bright point source light reflection and you'll see all sorts of fine scratches all over the CD. Those scratches happen on your paint too. There is no denying it that NuFinish is abrasive and doesn't leave as good a finish anyways plus stains plastic trim something aweful.

The compelling reason like I said before is the budget polishers do not have enough power. To correct fine scratches and swirls requires a long time and that's even with the smaller 6" random orbits. The 10" random orbits are garbage. They actually have the same motor as the 6". The reason why you want the 6" is the 10" has so much surface area that as soon as you put any pressure on them they bog down and when they bog down they can't polish. The 6" with the same motor can have a little more pressure and with the same power motor as the 10" in a smaller area more power per square inch of surface is applied to the paint, and it's that higher power per square inch that ends up doing the polishing. But either way the true DA polishers have much more power.

A 6" random orbit polisher has about 50 watts of power, a 6" DA polisher like the Porter Cable has about 480 watts. To get the same results with the 6" random orbital means you'll take 10 times as long to get the same results, but in reality it'll never happen because the polish you use will either break down long before or simply dry up. So you'll never get any correction. Another benefit with the 6" is it gets into tighter areas than the 10".

But the double whammy I'd say is never use any power polisher with Nufinish. Not only will it sling badly and stain all the plastic it touches but it will definitely end up causing swirls. Those big abrasive particles in NuFinish that seem to do an acceptable job by hand positively gouge the paint when applied by machine. On top of that NuFinish wasn't made to eliminate swirls.

Here's my advice. Like I said. Forget the nano-sponge or nano-towel, I don't know what your obsession with power decontamination is but I'm telling you if you don't have experience detailing cars, power decontamination is simply asking to gouge and mar your paint especially with the nanoskin products if you let them get low on lube. Get clay, it's less expensive, and does a great job, and it's the fastest part of detailing. Saving a minute to power this portion makes no sense. Use that money to buy a DA and save time and do a better job where it really counts, the polishing step.

If you really don't want to get the DA then get a decent polish like Meguiars M205. That and a 6" random orbit polisher, a couple wool bonnets and the M205 will work really well in making your car shine. It won't correct nearly to the degree that the DA does but M205, a wool bonnet and a 6" random orbit can do a lot better than NuFinish regardless of application method. If you haven't really taken the time to pay attention go at night to a well lit parking lot and look at the reflections and you'll see tons of swirls. With that said NuFinish will only make those swirls worse. People never notice just how bad NuFinish is on paint until I correct half their hood and tell them to go back to the parking lot.

And as far as protection goes, Collinite will outlast NuFinish. The reason NuFinish tends to last longer than waxes has as much to do with it's "cleaners" read abrasives. A cleaned and polished surface will bead water longer because protectants hold better to properly prepped surfaces. Waxing contaminated rough paint means the wax can't hold on as strongly and they tend to wear out quicker. But do a proper polish and apply a pure wax like Collinite and the results will look way better than NuFinish, you won't stain your plastic trim, and the protection will last longer.

 

[Brybo86]

why rubbed between 2 cds? Do you rub a cd covered in polish on your car? Why not rub the nufinish on the cd with an appropriate cloth?

example I tried using 3M sandpaper to remove the top layer of varnish on my kitchen table and it badly scored the wood...
oh by the bay I was using a belt sander... but 3M products are still garbage

 

[BTLew81]

The CD test is not entirely valid. I'm not going to argue, it's been proven not to be real valid.

NF is really a good product for the money. It lasts and is a great product for hard winters. Is is "as good" as other products? Maybe yes, maybe no. The bottom line is that 95% of the look is the prep. It's a good cleaner, protects well, and is not harsh. I've used it on my well maintained paint and it looks great, as well on so so paint. Looked as good as anything else.

Too many consumers and "detailers" think price=better. Wrong on all accounts. NF might just be one of the best values out there.