1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
AND, i was asked to 'report back." WELL you should all be pretty proud.. I did NOT get my NEW PHONE ROOTED to BOOST yet! (had some issues, want to switch carriers.) I SAVED the MORE THAN $100 that would have cost, spent just a liiiitle money on some porn (gotta stay sane here and we are all adults, like $20 or so,) and SAVED THE REST OF THE MONEY! for GAS! And running it with this IMPERFECT TUNE! (As we assume that it is.) So I did not BLOW ALL MY MONEY!! I also asked myself honestly if I could HANDLE a second job right now.. and I realized: NOT SO SURE!!! I also realized I make about $300 every two weeks, so, if i pay everything I have to, I am squeaking by.


Dude. Way, way, way too much information.

Or is this the little bit of rod knock in question?
crazy2.gif



No, that isn't the suspected "rod knock." lol
 
Again, this engine is OUT, in junkyard/scrap metal place somewhere:



As to the distributor, I used this video as a guide.



And here is the end o my custom tool.

255517_500878186645399_1431234909_n.jpg
 
You removed the distributor? Why???? Did you at least mark it (and the rotor) first to make sure it goes back in the same place?

And you broke the oil pressure switch too...
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
You removed the distributor? Why???? Did you at least mark it (and the rotor) first to make sure it goes back in the same place?

And you broke the oil pressure switch too...


I kinda lost track of what the heck is going on here too, but I THINK those pics are of the OLD engine, not the current one. IE he had the dizzy and broke the OP switch on the OLD engine, the one with rod knock.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: css9450
You removed the distributor? Why???? Did you at least mark it (and the rotor) first to make sure it goes back in the same place?

And you broke the oil pressure switch too...


I kinda lost track of what the heck is going on here too, but I THINK those pics are of the OLD engine, not the current one. IE he had the dizzy and broke the OP switch on the OLD engine, the one with rod knock.


Originally Posted By: css9450
You removed the distributor? Why???? Did you at least mark it (and the rotor) first to make sure it goes back in the same place?

And you broke the oil pressure switch too...


OVERKILL is correct. I went back and found pics from work I did myself on the OLD engine, the one with near-zero oil pressure and actual bona-fide rod knocking, not "suspected maybe" rod-knocking which is either an oil pan, timing chain cover, or just something loose, since nothing else adds up, though it meets the sound criterion of a rod knock, depending on who is looking. And could STILL BE a flex plate. Need to drop engine/trans a little to see. Can't yet. No, not yet. Has to stay as-is, that, for now...

This new engine, I did not yet do anything to it, since I now need to prepare myself for 6+ days of working. They will take their toll, though it is all about attitude. The money isnt there.

This is the picture I wanted to find, out of all of it. THIS is the one I must loosen.. I did not use the special tool, rather a cut wrench the first time.

Hopefully, this can re-focus us. This is the but i am looking at.
942511_500879233311961_1201357698_n.jpg


My "custom tool" I refer to is below.

282296_500614173338467_484398398_n.jpg
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to get a set of crows foot wrenches, rather than messing up a new gear wrench?

So, if I've got this right, you put the distributor in the new engine? And you don't know how to set timing? That's a pretty low percentage/odds for success....given prior history and experience...

You might just be a multiple of 60 degrees out on timing...and have a firing order problem...where most of the cylinders sort of work. But one or two are just too far off to run...

The best, and I mean THE BEST, thing you could do on your day off is to buy a manual for this car, so that you can start learning the basics about it....
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Wouldn't it have been easier to get a set of crows foot wrenches, rather than messing up a new gear wrench?

So, if I've got this right, you put the distributor in the new engine? And you don't know how to set timing? That's a pretty low percentage/odds for success....given prior history and experience...

You might just be a multiple of 60 degrees out on timing...and have a firing order problem...where most of the cylinders sort of work. But one or two are just too far off to run...

The best, and I mean THE BEST, thing you could do on your day off is to buy a manual for this car, so that you can start learning the basics about it....


The distributor in this engine is likely from a 1993. Since the distributor that came with may have been damaged in transport or something. Unsure. As to a manual, I have a Haynes, and it shows me firing order, etc.

All this talk of distributors is brought on by timing. And the photo plethora on page 15 is from an engine no longer in the truck. Same for video, Showing why this engine is better, even though it is from a 1994. Did not know all the differences.

I could take it where cmorr said but I would need money and to drive the day there/out/back.

And I never heard of a "Crow's foot wrench."

My ribs are healing, and I am working up resolve to go at this on my next full day off. I had to assess if I can handle two jobs. Unsure I can on that one.
 
My point was this: you don't know how to set a distributor, and yet you installed one...so, what are the odds that it's even close to being where it should be (about 720:1 I reckon...OK, slightly less, since the gears have to mesh with the cam...but I think the point is the same...)

The fact that you've never heard of a crow's foot wrench should concern you a bit - it's a common tool among those who work on cars. Google it. And when you buy a set, don't get cheap ones, they're under some serious stress when you use them. In the meantime, there may be specialty "distributor" wrenches for this engine (I used to have one for GM V-8s).

Different model year distributors often have different advance curves for different emissions equipment, they're not always compatible across years, despite the engine being the same...a Hollander interchange manual might get you that information...

USE THAT SHOP MANUAL - it will have a troubleshooting section. Real troubleshooting...the kind that requires measuring and checking operating parameters, like timing...not pouring more stuff into this poor thing...

If I've read this correctly, you still don't have all of the spark plugs changed, right? Did you take a good look at the old ones to see the running condition of the engine? IF you can't change a spark plug, or don't know what they should look like, then you shouldn't be under the hood without that manual and someone with experience looking over your shoulder.

Your problems are of your own creation...and the more actions that you take without clear understanding, or clear purpose, the more you continue down the path that you've set with the first Volvo - destruction...of both the car and your limited funds...we've been over this in previous posts but you have GOT to stop taking actions based on hope, guessing, OCD or whatever...you're causing damage that you cannot afford.

Slow down. Buy a manual. Begin really learning, I mean really learning, by going out and checking various operating components on the car one at a time with that manual in hand. Asking questions, and learning by internet forum responses is akin to the proverbial set of blind men touching an elephant - who describe it variously as a long skinny thing one minute (because one grabbed the tail), a large thing over head the next minute (because one is under it) and shaped like a tree the next (because one grabbed its leg). You have no idea what the entire beast looks like because you haven't learned to see and understand the whole picture yet. In each successive thread, you grasp firmly onto a new possibility without having resolved the previous set of questions. One minute it's timing, the next it's the O2 sensor, it was the sparkplugs, it was carbon build up, now it's fuel pressure and it still could be poor compression, worn cam, or bad injector...but you're still just guessing because you have not eliminated a single possibility by careful examination using the information in your manual. You gain a new, narrow, incomplete picture with each internet discussion topic, but still the whole beast eludes you.

And here's a perspective on the whole picture from one who's read your posts: you're making emotional decisions to your personal long-term financial detriment. If you get offered a car that runs and passes emissions - TAKE IT and junk this thing as soon as possible. Stop throwing good money after bad. Your obsession with this and other problem vehicles have prevented you from getting your life in order.
 
Last edited:
Also: Fuel Pressure Regulator. I know this by how the amount of gas I has... changes.. on the gauge from 3/4 tank to 1/4 tank and back again while I am driving...

I got a nice note from someone who will remain anonymous. it says:

Quote:
I have had a couple of these blazers. Its more than likely the fuel pressure regulator.

Take the air filter and all the tubing to the throttle body off.

Turn the key on / off, on / off (do not start truck) to build up the fuel pressure by pulsing fuel pump..

With truck still off (not running) open the throttle body valve and smell opening in intake. If it smells like gas the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

If it is you have to remove the upper intake and change it.

There should be a youtube video showing how to do this, its a common part failure.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
My point was this: you don't know how to set a distributor, and yet you installed one...so, what are the odds that it's even close to being where it should be (about 720:1 I reckon...OK, slightly less, since the gears have to mesh with the cam...but I think the point is the same...)

The fact that you've never heard of a crow's foot wrench should concern you a bit - it's a common tool among those who work on cars. Google it. And when you buy a set, don't get cheap ones, they're under some serious stress when you use them. In the meantime, there may be specialty "distributor" wrenches for this engine (I used to have one for GM V-8s).

Different model year distributors often have different advance curves for different emissions equipment, they're not always compatible across years, despite the engine being the same...a Hollander interchange manual might get you that information...

GET THAT SHOP MANUAL - it will have a troubleshooting section. Real troubleshooting...the kind that requires measuring and checking operating parameters, like timing...not pouring more stuff into this poor thing...

If I've read this correctly, you still don't have all of the spark plugs changed, right? Did you take a good look at the old ones to see the running condition of the engine? IF you can't change a spark plug, or don't know what they should look like, then you shouldn't be under the hood without that manual and someone with experience looking over your shoulder.

Your problems are of your own creation...and the more actions that you take without clear understanding, or clear purpose, the more you continue down the path that you've set with the first Volvo - destruction...of both the car and your limited funds...we've been over this in previous posts but you have GOT to stop taking actions based on hope, guessing, OCD or whatever...you're causing damage that you cannot afford.

Slow down. Buy a manual. Begin really learning, I mean really learning, by going out and checking various operating components on the car one at a time with that manual in hand. Asking questions, and learning by internet forum responses is akin to the proverbial set of blind men touching an elephant - who describe it variously as a long skinny thing one minute (because one grabbed the tail), a large thing over head the next minute (because one is under it) and shaped like a tree the next (because one grabbed its leg). You have no idea what the entire beast looks like because you haven't learned to see and understand the whole picture yet. In each successive thread, you grasp firmly onto a new possibility without having resolved the previous set of questions. One minute it's timing, the next it's the O2 sensor, it was the sparkplugs, it was carbon build up, and it still could be poor compression, worn cam, or bad injector...You gain a new, narrow, incomplete picture with each discussion topic, but still the whole beast eludes you.

And here's a perspective on the whole picture from one who's read your posts: you're making emotional decisions to your personal long-term financial detriment. If you get offered a car that runs and passes emissions - TAKE IT and junk this thing as soon as possible. Stop throwing good money after bad. Your obsession with this and other problem vehicles have prevented you from getting your life in order.


We posted at the same time.. I gotta re-read.
 
Quote:
If I've read this correctly, you still don't have all of the spark plugs changed, right?


They are all changed at this point, just that two got changed after the other four.

Quote:
Did you take a good look at the old ones to see the running condition of the engine?


I have them so that I can photograph them when I get a camera to do so. The first set, not these.

I really, really want to get this running right! Sometimes it runs perfect and sometimes it runs messed up.
 
Yeah, and I edited a bit based on your latest post...advice still stands...you'll find that I am consistent if you go back and re-read my advice to you over the past year or so...
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Yeah, and I edited a bit based on your latest post...advice still stands...you'll find that I am consistent if you go back and re-read my advice to you over the past year or so...


"Change comes slowly."

Truth is.. I feel like an idiot. I miss that first Volvo. Yes, it was destroyed. Yes, I destroyed it. The issue had nothing ot do with the car, it had everything to do with domestic. Nuff said on that, but my Volvo obsession has not faded and I coul dhave had a great running silver one. But nooo, I had to go screw that up.

I just received credible information that my FPR, or Fuel Pressure Regulator, is kaput based on an e-mail from someone. it matches what my truck is doing, plus the "howl" vacuum-cleaner-like noise I came to know as something is up with fuel. I had a suspicion. I will likely get this looked at before timing, due to that it is a part, that can be changed.. so i will take it to the parts changers, since the repair of the truck is semi-bankrolled. In the meantime, I still get my 14MPPG due to poor FPR and when it gets right? Back to emissions, timing. Yes, it is the elephant.

I am not trying to say that you said anything wrong.. Surely, by now you know some of my peculiarities.

I am so proud of myself for not wasting money today, but Western Union owes me $65 because they did not send it correctly. I have receipt and MTCN on WU receipt too. Is unfortunate.

As I stay in rest mode, I think of this now.. since I DO use this truck everyday and I love the way the wheels and tires (need new for winter!) make it look.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Yeah, and I edited a bit based on your latest post...advice still stands...you'll find that I am consistent if you go back and re-read my advice to you over the past year or so...


"Change comes slowly."

Truth is.. I feel like an idiot. I miss that first Volvo. Yes, it was destroyed. Yes, I destroyed it. The issue had nothing ot do with the car, it had everything to do with domestic. Nuff said on that, but my Volvo obsession has not faded and I coul dhave had a great running silver one. But nooo, I had to go screw that up.

I just received credible information that my FPR, or Fuel Pressure Regulator, is kaput based on an e-mail from someone. it matches what my truck is doing, plus the "howl" vacuum-cleaner-like noise I came to know as something is up with fuel. I had a suspicion. I will likely get this looked at before timing, due to that it is a part, that can be changed.. so i will take it to the parts changers, since the repair of the truck is semi-bankrolled. In the meantime, I still get my 14MPPG due to poor FPR and when it gets right? Back to emissions, timing. Yes, it is the elephant.

I am not trying to say that you said anything wrong.. Surely, by now you know some of my peculiarities.

I am so proud of myself for not wasting money today, but Western Union owes me $65 because they did not send it correctly. I have receipt and MTCN on WU receipt too. Is unfortunate.

As I stay in rest mode, I think of this now.. since I DO use this truck everyday and I love the way the wheels and tires (need new for winter!) make it look.



He writes:

Quote:
I have had a couple of these blazers. Its more than likely the fuel pressure regulator.

Take the air filter and all the tubing to the throttle body off.

Turn the key on / off, on / off (do not start truck) to build up the fuel pressure by pulsing fuel pump..

With truck still off (not running) open the throttle body valve and smell opening in intake. If it smells like gas the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

If it is you have to remove the upper intake and change it.

There should be a youtube video showing how to do this, its a common part failure.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I just received credible information that my FPR, or Fuel Pressure Regulator, is kaput based on an e-mail from someone. I will likely get this looked at before timing, due to that it is a part, that can be changed..


Still playing water sessions and replacing parts versus diagnostics.

You honestly don't know how many issues you have because you have a collection of unknown key components assembled by people who had no idea what they are doing.

You're current problems and your near term plan/budget for this vehicle, would be served by a proper benchmark (compression, timing, etc.)

If you get lucky and get by the current problem doing parts swaps you'll be back in the same situation when the next issue comes up
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
THIS is the bolt I need to get at.

942511_500879233311961_1201357698_n.jpg



Is it just my imagination, or is there something wrong with the way the distributor base is seated in this picture? It looks like its not seated all the way down. If that were the case however, I think it would be leaking oil like Niagara Falls.
 
It sure looks like the distributor isn't fully seated. A gasket should be pinched between the shiny surface and the distributor flange above it.

The tool you're looking for is a "Distributor Clamp Wrench." Advance lists one for about $8.

Whatever you do, DO NOT remove the distributor. If you can't loosen the bolt and get the distributor to seat so you can check timing, find a shop that will actually let you pay them in exchange for fixing the truck.

One thing at a time. O2 sensor and timing were the plan pages ago.
 
I am sure getting a lot of good advice here and you all may not believe this, but I am doing really the best I can do while being low on money, time, and know-how.

I like to do what I know i can do in the hopes it will fix a problem. As to shops, they have their rates and timeframe and sometimes I just cannot resolve the two. Even with borrowing Mom's SUV.

The one shop told me they couldnt work on it (in NJ) due to it failing for emissions because they are "no longer a licensed facility!"

That all is the main source of why I kept up with the "water games."

So, at ~2 gallons hot through the intake, is that area now "clean?"

I also appreciate all the advice given and continuing to be given! Thank you! This is the diagnostics, of sorts, in lieu of shop time, including the place in PA, if I can ever figure how to get it there.. day off, money... it all has to add up..

And yes, minor oil leak used to exist, but that was old distributor... Permatex RTV Ultra Black were used on parts of the install.

The real "leak" is probaly some trnas fluid at the base of the radiator whee it has been moving, though my trans fluid was strill in crosshairs last I checked it a week ago.

This truck sure is a project, but also my DD.

And not only do I notice what sounds like a "Fuel pump howl" at akmost all times, but today I put in #30 of gas. And I noticed.. My gas gauge went from almost full, to 1/3 full, and back up to about 2/3-3/4-ish full.. all in the span of about 5 miles, including highway driving. So I think his Fuel Pressure Refgulator advice is somewhat rooted in fact. Again, it is the elephant.. I dont KNOW this.. but if an FPR costs like $20-$30 and a shop can put it in overnight, THAT is something I "can do." They don't want to touch timing? Fine. I can get the tool for the distributor, if I cant get my custom one to work (I used it with cap OFF so I may in fact need that tool, that two and maybe three people mentioned. I also have the procedure how to do it.) Then, if either the FPR the 02 sensor (same shop, the parts changers, they sometimes do it for free sometimes they charge, they cant diagnose worth a poop but they change parts and tires its what they do, they got Volvo 2 to work, minimal diagnosis we knew what was up with it) -- this is why I am saying, "I am doing what I can."

Yes, it needs diagnosed right including that semi-rod knock noise.
Yes, its somewhat of a pile.
Yes, it is my daily driver.. and if a second car enters the picture, then I believe a rosy outcome (a truck that doesnt have a HOWL when idling! Sounds fuelish to me, having owned a fair deal of cars and hearing it on some, issue came back to fuel) ....

I am rambling and I may need a drink. Maybe beer?
 
^^ I did not drink a beer.

Now it has t get me into work in a short while.

How does that plan sound: Fuel Pressure Regulator, and perhaps 02 sensor, in succession? And continue either planning to time it myself, or go to reputable shop, depending on how the other two items go?

Remember, working within my means here.
 
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