Hyundai 26300 35503 OEM Filter cut

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Said this before but the L14459 compared to the Hyundai OEM is not an apples to apples comparison imo. A fair comparison would be a P1 PL14459 with silicone adbv same as Hyundai oem.

Also both Purolators have a known rated efficiency, 97.5%@20um for the Classic and 99.9%@20um for the P1. As with most OEMs no 'published' efficiency rating. Classic $3.27, P1 can be had for ~$5.60 with 20% off AAP codes, less when purchased in a higher quantity.

Not saying Hyundai oem isn't a well made filter, looks fine. But there's other factors beyond looks to consider.

Thanks for the pics.
 
You would think that there are some efficiency numbers somewhere. That filter is basically the same for the last 30 years.
 
I've said it again and I'll say it before:
grin2.gif


I think we attach way too much importance to efficiency. If a manufacturer thought super-duper efficiency was beneficial, they'd design their filters that way.

Example: Much discussion on here a while back about Motorcraft efficiency being spec'd at a generic 80%. Along comes AMSOIL who determined the FL820S is actually 93.7%. Many here have lamented that even the lowly Purolator Classic is better than that, yet the Ford engines that spec the FL820S regularly go 300,000 miles, under cop and taxi use, so is efficiency really that important to longevity?
 
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You would think that there are some efficiency numbers somewhere....

Most oems keep the filter specs proprietary. If not for Amsoil 2011 testing of some oems, filters like the FL820S on the higher end and Honda and Toyota on the (much) lower end would not be known either.

And whether MC boosters want to admit it or not, the Amsoil test did much to boost the use/reputation of MC filters compared with it's previously vague ~80%>20um spec. Interestingly, while now only the FL 820S is known, the spec has been expanded to include all MC's. Granted it seems a reasonable assumption.

And while higher rated filter efficiency may or may not translate to lower engine wear, other things being equal or close, there's nothing to lose using a filter with a higher rated efficiency.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
I've said it again and I'll say it before:
grin2.gif


I think we attach way too much importance to efficiency. If a manufacturer thought super-duper efficiency was beneficial, they'd design their filters that way.

Example: Much discussion on here a while back about Motorcraft efficiency being spec'd at a generic 80%. Along comes AMSOIL who determined the FL820S is actually 93.7%. Many here have lamented that even the lowly Purolator Classic is better than that, yet the Ford engines that spec the FL820S regularly go 300,000 miles, under cop and taxi use, so is efficiency really that important to longevity?


I'll say it again too; I want to know what I am getting... low, high or midrange efficiency. It makes a difference if you are doing extended OCIs or operating in a harsh environment. For an everyday schlubber that has an easy life and frequent oil changes not so much.
 
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I run this filter on my daughter's 2011 Sonata 2.4 and the same interval. The whole start-up tick thread made me go to oem. Thanks for the pictures.

I just bought a new kia, and i notice a start up tick for about 5 seconds after start up with the oem filter. Isnt that a normal thing on most cars at start up no matter what filter you use. The other car i have does it and my wifes old car did it also.
 
Originally Posted By: Texican
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I run this filter on my daughter's 2011 Sonata 2.4 and the same interval. The whole start-up tick thread made me go to oem. Thanks for the pictures.

I just bought a new kia, and i notice a start up tick for about 5 seconds after start up with the oem filter. Isnt that a normal thing on most cars at start up no matter what filter you use. The other car i have does it and my wifes old car did it also.


Maybe it's "normal" for a KIA since it does it even with an OEM oil filter. But, that OEM oil filter might be defective (ie, bad ADBV).

Every vehicles I've ever owned has never made any noticeable knocking of ticking noises upon start-up ... even after an OCI with a bone dry oil filter on initial start-up after the OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: Texican
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I run this filter on my daughter's 2011 Sonata 2.4 and the same interval. The whole start-up tick thread made me go to oem. Thanks for the pictures.

I just bought a new kia, and i notice a start up tick for about 5 seconds after start up with the oem filter. Isnt that a normal thing on most cars at start up no matter what filter you use. The other car i have does it and my wifes old car did it also.


I've tried to listen for start up ticking. Stood under hood while wife crank/start. I cannot get a hint of any ticking. Did again last week early morning 1st start now that morning temps have dropped. Still cannot hear anything. Still (as always) oil light goes out about the time the engine fires, maybe a fraction of a second before fire (near end of cranking cycle).
5 seconds... maybe defective filter? The OEM filter seems good quality, but things happen.
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
Originally Posted By: Texican
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I run this filter on my daughter's 2011 Sonata 2.4 and the same interval. The whole start-up tick thread made me go to oem. Thanks for the pictures.

I just bought a new kia, and i notice a start up tick for about 5 seconds after start up with the oem filter. Isnt that a normal thing on most cars at start up no matter what filter you use. The other car i have does it and my wifes old car did it also.


I've tried to listen for start up ticking. Stood under hood while wife crank/start. I cannot get a hint of any ticking. Did again last week early morning 1st start now that morning temps have dropped. Still cannot hear anything. Still (as always) oil light goes out about the time the engine fires, maybe a fraction of a second before fire (near end of cranking cycle).
5 seconds... maybe defective filter? The OEM filter seems good quality, but things happen.

We'll this is the second oem filter I have had on the car, I dumped the factory fill after 3k. I guess I got 2 oem filters in a row with a bad adbv.
 
Originally Posted By: Texican
Originally Posted By: Errtt
Originally Posted By: Texican
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I run this filter on my daughter's 2011 Sonata 2.4 and the same interval. The whole start-up tick thread made me go to oem. Thanks for the pictures.

I just bought a new kia, and i notice a start up tick for about 5 seconds after start up with the oem filter. Isnt that a normal thing on most cars at start up no matter what filter you use. The other car i have does it and my wifes old car did it also.


I've tried to listen for start up ticking. Stood under hood while wife crank/start. I cannot get a hint of any ticking. Did again last week early morning 1st start now that morning temps have dropped. Still cannot hear anything. Still (as always) oil light goes out about the time the engine fires, maybe a fraction of a second before fire (near end of cranking cycle).
5 seconds... maybe defective filter? The OEM filter seems good quality, but things happen.

We'll this is the second oem filter I have had on the car, I dumped the factory fill after 3k. I guess I got 2 oem filters in a row with a bad adbv.


If it's doing it with about every filter you use, then I'd start looking at other engine issues beside the oil filter being used.
 
Originally Posted By: Texican


We'll this is the second oem filter I have had on the car, I dumped the factory fill after 3k. I guess I got 2 oem filters in a row with a bad adbv.


If it's doing it with about every filter you use, then I'd start looking at other engine issues beside the oil filter being used. [/quote]

What oil? Some (several posts) get ticking/noise using oils like M1. I did when I tried M1 in our Escape, same filter too. Ran a very short OCI, went back to MS5K and noise went away. Most likely no harm, but can be annoying and I had to find out if it was the oil or something else.Then I tried a heavier (higher viscosity) once too and that also made it noisy, so back to what worked.
 
It has MS5K 5W30 in it right now, not sure what the factory fill was. It has a GDI engine they are not the quietest engines to begin with.
 
Originally Posted By: Texican
It has MS5K 5W30 in it right now, not sure what the factory fill was. It has a GDI engine they are not the quietest engines to begin with.

Wonder if 5w-20 would make any difference or if any additional info found.

Per my OM, "higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather".

Myself, I did use a fill of PP 5w-30 when triple digit temps were upon us. Then the mornings started to cool and I switched back to 5w-20. Although some cooling trends were coming in, I still didn't get any additional noise. Switched to 5w-20 and sounded the same... so might be a moot point.
 
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I have some 5W20 syn power for the next oc. I doubt it will make a difference, these DI engines are known for there noise.
 
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