1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
Ght
The dizzy is mounted on a shaft. At the base of the shaft there will be a clip that has a bolt head affixed. With engine off unhook the vacuum line that is plugged in to dizzy.Start engine.Loosen the bolt head. That will allow you to turn the entire dizzy either clockwise or counterclockwise. Turn the dizzy a smigeon,tighten bolt,turn off engine,hook vacuum line up,test drive.
I don't know which will advance the timing on a 4.3 but that's how it's done on a vacuum advance distributor. If you've got an hei ignition I don't know how to disable the advance to set initial timing.
You are net savvy. I'm sure you can dig up a YouTube vid on how to adjust timing.


OMG! I see a disconnected line there.. a vac line plugs into the dizzy?????

That could be the issue right there, it is clean off...................
 
I have to get my phone back so I can photo-document these things. OR get my S3 hooked up to Cricket. Let me look into that.. it is still "active on an account" though.
frown.gif


^^ Unless this matters not for Cricket...
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: silverrat
Offer people money in exchange for their services


I know the bolt cmorr is mentioning. I could spend on the tool/extension/socket to get to it, if it is the bolt that.. waitwaitwait I have the custom-cut 15mm crescent.. Yes, daylight, I maybe can do this!!!


You still need a timing light and to disable the ECM from controlling the timing..........
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Ght
With engine off unhook the vacuum line that is plugged in to dizzy.


He doesn't have any vacuum advance on his truck.

The instructions to disable the spark advance were posted a page or two earlier.
 
Should I also let the experienced mechanic (not one of these indy shops) look at it and do the dreaded "compression test" too?

So far, my list to present truck to him looks like this:

SYMPTOMS
1. Surges at idle sometimes, has loping/somewhat miss-sounding idle.
Advice given: RE-SET TIMING
THIS ENGINE IS FROM A 1994 AND WAS NOT TIMED, NEEDS RESET

2. Code 44 "Exhaust is lean" code
3. Compression test?
- Exhaust leak? 02 sensor?
I jumpered the ALDL as you can see
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
And my rib still hurts, so, loosening Distributor Cap screw #2 (drivers side) would be extra hard to do. Then I could perhaps move cap, sure.. Not sure screws wouldnt vibrate out, I had that happen before, distributors held wit one screw...


You have stated state this a couple of times in this thread ad were corrected (scroll up and you will see the photo I posted)

You are not loosening or removing the distributor cap screws. You will be loosing a bolt that uses a clamp to keep the entire distributor from turning.


Its daylight now, let me go see if I can see this screw.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I tried to turn it and I was reminded my ribs are still whacked at this time.


LOL Yeah it is kind of a stretch all the way back there by the firewall. Imagine doing this on a full-size early-70s boat!

Eljefino has a good point. If you don't have access to a timing light, just loosen the bolt and turn the distributor a tiny bit one way or the other. Go for a test drive. You might get lucky or it might take a couple attempts before you see an improvement.

Just go easy on it; a few degrees at most.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Just go easy on it; a few degrees at most.


Quoted for emphasis, keep an eye on your temperature gauge as well
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I tried to turn it and I was reminded my ribs are still whacked at this time.


You need one of these:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accesso...ier=914110_0_0_

$7 at the Zone and then borrow their timing light. Hook up the light first and check what the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is set at and then if needed loosed the hold down bolt a bit and turn the dist one way or another while holding the light on the balancer and watch the mark dance around until it's lined up.

Here are the instruction from AutoZone's website that tell you how to put the ECU into timing set mode:

1) Engage the parking brake, block the wheels and set the transmission in P.

2) Disconnect the Ignition Control (IC) system by disengaging the "set timing connector''. This is a single wire sealed connector that has a tan with black stripe lead. This wire comes out of the wiring harness below the heater case. (This means inside the vehicle under the pass side dash board. Pull back the carpet to find the wiring.)

3) With the ignition switch OFF , connect the timing light pickup lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

4) Start the engine and point the timing light at the timing mark on the balancer or pulley and check the timing.

5 If the timing is not within specifications (0º Before Top Dead Center), loosen the distributor hold-down bolt. Slowly rotate the distributor until the proper timing setting is achieved.

6) Tighten the hold-down bolt and recheck the timing.

7)Turn the ignition OFF , remove the timing light and engage the "set timing'' connector.

You can do this, just put your mind to acomplishing it and get it done. If the timing is good, then you can look to the O2 sensor.
 
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You guys are all assuming that Franken Blazer has the correct/original distributor for the installed engine...and that the engine has reasonable compression in all six cylinders, so that setting timing is both possible and/or worth doing...

Given how it runs, and how well mechanics have treated GHT in the past, I wouldn't make either of those assumptions...
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You guys are all assuming that Franken Blazer has the correct/original distributor for the installed engine...and that the engine has reasonable compression in all six cylinders, so that setting timing is both possible and/or worth doing...

Given how it runs, and how well mechanics have treated GHT in the past, I wouldn't make either of those assumptions...


Pretty sure the distributor was from a 1993 parts bin.

As to compression test, I asked a shop that has always done right by us (I think, in terms of honesty and old-school knowledge and equipment, if not price and product) "Is not allowed to work on the car having failed for emissions because he is not a licensed inspection agency anymore." (Welcome to NJ??)

Now I have to get to asking. Should I get a distributor from a 1994 before I proceed. ?

Or. Should I get a step-stool like i did when I actually removed the whole distributor (remember the F150? Oil Pressure Sending unit?) and took cap off THEN distributor OUT, using the tools I had.. Should I get one of those and use wither my custom-made tool OR the Autozone tool, and proceed to set ?

It wont happen in the next 6 days, I work each day...........

AND, i was asked to 'report back." WELL you should all be pretty proud.. I did NOT get my NEW PHONE ROOTED to BOOST yet! (had some issues, want to switch carriers.) I SAVED the MORE THAN $100 that would have cost, spent just a liiiitle money on some porn (gotta stay sane here and we are all adults, like $20 or so,) and SAVED THE REST OF THE MONEY! for GAS! And running it with this IMPERFECT TUNE! (As we assume that it is.) So I did not BLOW ALL MY MONEY!! I also asked myself honestly if I could HANDLE a second job right now.. and I realized: NOT SO SURE!!! I also realized I make about $300 every two weeks, so, if i pay everything I have to, I am squeaking by.
 
942581_500870836646134_53507013_n.jpg

303066_500871333312751_133472826_n.jpg


No longer in there:

179524_500871579979393_308023071_n.jpg

395707_500874093312475_879585510_n.jpg

923125_500874459979105_229825271_n.jpg


I got THAT out like this:

215281_500870463312838_1911024648_n.jpg


And, my custom tool i used the first time, to get it out w/ cap off:

942222_500595003340384_237233021_n.jpg


*This is when distributor was up/off/out to get it out the Oil Pressure Sending Unit the first time.

255440_500875463312338_1011596087_n.jpg
 
And THIS is why I think I DO NOT have "rod knock" -- this was a previous engine, before taking it to hacks.

Note the oil pressure and sound.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
AND, i was asked to 'report back." WELL you should all be pretty proud.. I did NOT get my NEW PHONE ROOTED to BOOST yet! (had some issues, want to switch carriers.) I SAVED the MORE THAN $100 that would have cost, spent just a liiiitle money on some porn (gotta stay sane here and we are all adults, like $20 or so,) and SAVED THE REST OF THE MONEY! for GAS! And running it with this IMPERFECT TUNE! (As we assume that it is.) So I did not BLOW ALL MY MONEY!! I also asked myself honestly if I could HANDLE a second job right now.. and I realized: NOT SO SURE!!! I also realized I make about $300 every two weeks, so, if i pay everything I have to, I am squeaking by.


Dude. Way, way, way too much information.

Or is this the little bit of rod knock in question?
crazy2.gif
 
This will be one of the LAST options, since I think the engine is save-able (the 1994 in there now:) http://www.apmengineparts.com/general-motors-4-3-262-v6-86-99-crankshaft-kit1.html

http://www.apmengineparts.com/general-motors-4-3-262-v6-86-99-crankshaft-kit.html

Quote:
General Motors 4.3 Liter 262 V6 86-99 Crankshaft Kit

Casting numbers 10055480 and 10105865

CAUTION: Casting numbers vary by VIN code. Please call or e-mail with VIN Code before ordering.

Kit includes a quality reconditioned crankshaft with name-brand rod and main bearings.

Photograph is generic.


* Just taking engine notes before I go on. Since we are talking about timing, and distributors.

I can't do mine today, rib is not 100% and I have to be clean/work each day after today. Ooo-wee. Weds, Thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun... Monday..
 
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