07' Subaru timing Belt Change?

[VinceF]

Have a few yrs before it is scheduled, but debating weather to tackle it myself or get it done. Car is an 07' Subaru with Very low mi, like 15k, so may have 20K on it when supposed to be done. Recommended is 105K mi or 105 mo.I know mi aren't the only reason to change. I think part of the cover comes off to see the belt. Hate the idea of an Interference Engine having a Rubber belt. Now they use a chain. Some Co's used to use a Tripple chain with them.

Lotus recommends 25K mi on their Esprit. Was looking at used cars, and many were at the mi a change was recommended, and I wondered if they had been changed.

Wonder what the thinking is?

 

[JC1]

Can you open the cover yourself with out too much hassle to see the condition of the belt? I did that with my 97 civic before I changed it.

If your lettering is still on the belt and it looks to be in good condition, I would leave it. 15k miles is very low. Is your car parked outside most of the time or in a garage?

Regards, JC.

 

[Eddie]

Agree. If the belt looks good and there is no oil on the belt then don't change it. I had a 2000 Forester and changed the belt at ~ 100,000 at 8 years and it looked like new, leading me to believe that there is a very large safety factor build in. I changed my own belt on the SOHC engine but, the DOHC engine is more of a challenge. Ed

 

[izualangel]

You didn't specify if it's the SOHC or DOHC engine, which makes a difference in whether you'll want to tackle the job. Some specialty tools are available that make the job easier, by far. The SOHC engine is much, much easier to change the timing belt on, but does call for fewer specialty tools.

On the driver side of the engine you'll find the portion of the timing cover that is removed for TB inspections. Keep in mind that the belt is only a portion of the timing system. You have (on the SOHC engine) three idler pulleys, the water pump, and the hydraulic tensioner. I don't advocate re-using tensioners. Obviously, if they fail then your new timing belt will have been replaced in vain. Lastly, the decision to replace the belt at 105 months is up to you, but it's cheap insurance to replace the TB components for $400 or so, rather than replacing the engine.

 

[tenderloin]

Replaced my sons 07 about 6 months ago. Watched our mechanic. My level of expertise I would not try it myself, but it seems pretty straight forward. Amazon has some very good deals on complete kits.

 

[EddieCairns]

Both my 2001 WRX DOHC Turbo at 50k miles and 4 years and my 2006 non Turbo DOHC at 50K miles and 5 years needed new tensioners as they were leaking.

In the UK the change interval is 50k miles on the same belt part number. The oil change interval is 12k miles

eddie

 

[Trav]

I would probably just change the belt itself with either a Subaru OEM or Mitsuboshi.
Its true the miles are low and belts are better than than ever but they do degrade with time like tires and other rubber components.

This engine is an interference engine so a belt failure would be catastrophic.
If the tensioner is dry that means it didn't leak and at 15K is perfectly serviceable as are the idlers and no need to mess with the water pump, cam and oil pump seals which is a big part of the "normal" job.
Just shorten the next interval by 15K.

Edit: I just saw EddieCairns post about the tensioner. If you have a perfectly dry one at 15K and 5 years you have one that will probably go the long distance.
Bad ones start getting damp almost from the get go and it takes a while for them to loose their oil and fail.

 

[VinceF]

It's a SOHC NA engine. The car sits outside, in the Mid Atlantic weather.

Looked like the cover on the right hand side comes off to inspect the belt. Wouldn't want to lose the engine for a belt, Saw a vid on You Tube on changing one, and looked like a lot to do, so debating. Guess it depends on how I feel. Usually I would love the challenge, but don't want to mess it up. A young mechanic friend liked that everything was up front with the longitudinal motor. My other car has a transverse V-6, and changing the waterpump took a few attemps. Had 11 bolts of 4 different sizes.

 

[JTK]

Vince, at 15Kmi and ~7yrs of age, that belt probably looks new yet. I'd wait 2 more years or so IMO. I know the EJ's are interference engines, but you rarely hear of T-belt related catastrophes with them.

 

[Trav]

The is definitely a safety margin built in, the belts don't break at 105,001 miles but i would hate to dispense advice like waiting a couple of years beyond OEM spec. what if something happened? Personally i would feel some responsibility.

 

[VinceF]

Originally Posted By: Trav
The is definitely a safety margin built in, the belts don't break at 105,001 miles but i would hate to dispense advice like waiting a couple of years beyond OEM spec. what if something happened? Personally i would feel some responsibility.


Have about a year+ before out of spec time wise, and will consider possibilities. May never hit the miles. Have an 86' Chevy with 89K mi on it, bought in 88' with 35k on it. Messed up my heart, so I might not even make it. Should be interesting.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: Trav
.. i would hate to dispense advice like waiting a couple of years beyond OEM spec. what if something happened? Personally i would feel some responsibility.


Dispense advice?

I offered my opinion based on my knowledge of Subaru's recommendation of a 105mo/105K mile cam belt change interval. 8.75yrs is close enough to 9yrs to me. Again, just my opinion.

 

[cptbarkey]

i find timing belts on SOHC subaru's to be much more difficult to align the camshaft sprockets and slip the timing belt back on versus the DOHC engines. I have always done it with the engine out. As a matter of fact, i would recommend just pulling the engine to do it if this is a DIY situation.

Even with the radiator removed, properly aligning the sprockets will be very difficult without using small mirrors and lots of double checking. With it out, its simple to see all the alignment marks.

On that note, unless you have the tools already invested ($400+) alone, pay someone to do it. i bet you can find a local place that will do it for around $600-$700. Be sure to also get the water pump replaced at the same time. Good luck.

 

[VinceF]

Been getting prices. Dealer says 1500. Pep Boys says 1K. That's just for a belt change, and no other parts. Have another place to check, that does other brands cheaper. Ideally I'd want to do it myself.

 

[05LGTLtd]

I've got 96k and eight years on my LGT with the original belt. I don't live in fear of it letting loose on me. When I hit the mileage mark, I'll change the belt and water pump etc.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: VinceF
Been getting prices. Dealer says 1500. Pep Boys says 1K. That's just for a belt change, and no other parts.


I know pricing can vary by region, but that sounds really high to me. Especially for just replacing the belt. I believe my local Sub dealer quotes about $600 for a T-belt change. Search around for a mom/pop shop that's familiar with Subaru and/or imports.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: Trav
.. i would hate to dispense advice like waiting a couple of years beyond OEM spec. what if something happened? Personally i would feel some responsibility.


Dispense advice?

I offered my opinion based on my knowledge of Subaru's recommendation of a 105mo/105K mile cam belt change interval. 8.75yrs is close enough to 9yrs to me. Again, just my opinion.


My apologies i wasn't looking at the 105 months i thought it was 5 years. Of course you are right in this case.

 

[meep]

I did our 2.2 twice with normal hand tools, no specialty tools. the first time it took my 4-5 hours. the second, maybe 2.5 with the water pump. it was the sohc.

by removing the rad fans and surrounding bits, access and visibility was pretty generous.

If you're handy with a wrench and patient, this is a pretty easy car to do.

The hardest part was compressing the tensioner.

 

[Challenger71]

If that's just for the belt, they are clinically insane. Depending on zip code expect to pay no more than $500-600 for labor and about $500 for parts which includes the belt, H20 pump, idlers and gaskets.

So a grand for everything, incl the water pump.While the engine is out you might as well get the valves checked/adjusted if necessary.

Originally Posted By: VinceF
Been getting prices. Dealer says 1500. Pep Boys says 1K. That's just for a belt change, and no other parts. Have another place to check, that does other brands cheaper. Ideally I'd want to do it myself.

 

[meep]

^^^ they pull the motor for these?? ^^^