2014 Mazda 6

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I'm still unsure of the oil filter location on my new 2014 Mazda 6 GS (canadian mid trim). Front or back of the engine? Can't see from above and the underneath of the engine bay is shrouded.

I'm planning to use the OEM filter. $10.50 at my dealer. Will get a few in the US next month at likely half that price.

Factory oil recommendation for the US and Canada is 0W-20 API SM ILSAC. Outside of warranty concerns, would using the Motomaster Formula 1 Synthetic 5W-20 SN/GF5 ILSAC that I have in stock be OK?

BTW, the factory recommendation for Mexico is 5W-30 and 5W-20 as an alternate.

Should I worry about fuel dilution in my DI engine?

Seen on some Mazda forums that the oil pan plug requires an 8 mm allen key. Is that right? Never seen one before.
 
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I would suggest you use Mobil 1 5w-20 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 if you don't want to use 0w-20. You can get it on sale at Walmart or Canadian tire a few times a year. Walmart usually has the Pennzoil platinum on sale for around $20 for a 4.73L jug on boxing day, but you need to get there early to stock up.

Regards, JC.
 
Both my 8 and CX5 take an Allen wrench.

For oil since the spec is broad and only recommended I use 30wt in the CX and see no reason 5w20 would be an issue. Dealers I've talked to second that as does Mazda.
 
According to Fram its a spin on filter.

The only pic i found of a skyactive engine with the filter mounted is this 2.2L diesel engine, and in this application its mounted with the dome side on the bottom, and completely vertical on the alternator of the engine, should be easily accessible from underneath the car.

In this image the filter is silver.

6iqreu.jpg
 
Look for a hatch on the underbody shroud that you unclip to access the filter. I have an opening in my 2013 Sonata for the filter and a hatch to access the oil pan bolt.

I am curious with your statement "Outside of warranty concerns".

Why risk being challenged on using a not recommended viscosity on a new car with a new engine (re)design? Oil is relatively cheap, engine repairs, not so much.
 
The factory filter is a good option. I don't know for sure but I assume the new 2.5 uses the same filter as the 2.0 which is a different filter from the old MZR filters. Apparently there has been some confusion from the filter manufacturers with this and some were still recommending the old filter.

Of course the best deal in Canada for 0w20 is at the Toyota dealership. My son has been running that in his 3 as they also spec it for the MZR now.

I can't see that you would have any issues with the Motomaster Synthetic, it is believed to be re-bottled Formula Shell. Of course a UOA on it would always be welcomed!
 
Front passenger side of the engine. Theres two little compartments that pop off from underneath. The bigger one gives you access to the spin-on filter and drain plug. It does use an allen key for the plug. Pretty easy DIY car for oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Front passenger side of the engine. Theres two little compartments that pop off from underneath. The bigger one gives you access to the spin-on filter and drain plug. It does use an allen key for the plug. Pretty easy DIY car for oil changes.


Thanks. Still not visible from the top but I'll get to it when the time comes. It's looking more like under the engine than at the front if similar to the 2.0l SkyActiv I saw at the dealer.

How do you like yours? What trim did you get? What kind of mileage you're getting and did you change the oil yet?

My car was built in February. I took delivery on Aug 30th with 3 km on the clock. It hadn't been prepped before.
 
Originally Posted By: cp3

Of course the best deal in Canada for 0w20 is at the Toyota dealership. My son has been running that in his 3 as they also spec it for the MZR now.

I can't see that you would have any issues with the Motomaster Synthetic, it is believed to be re-bottled Formula Shell. Of course a UOA on it would always be welcomed!

The Shell made Motomaster FI syn' 5W-20 is a decent oil,
but with the far superior TGMO 0W-20 costing only $5.65/L or $25/5L jug it makes little sense to use anything else in Canada.

The OP need not be concerned about the 0W-20 being too light when wintering in Florida (lucky guy), it's not, but if it makes him feel better, pick-up a bottle of M1 0W-40 in the States and top-up with a pint or so. That will raise the HTHSV to 2.7cP, on par with some of the heavier 5W-20 syn's while hardly affecting the superior start-up performance TGMO 0W-20 is renowned for.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: cp3

Of course the best deal in Canada for 0w20 is at the Toyota dealership. My son has been running that in his 3 as they also spec it for the MZR now.

I can't see that you would have any issues with the Motomaster Synthetic, it is believed to be re-bottled Formula Shell. Of course a UOA on it would always be welcomed!

The Shell made Motomaster FI syn' 5W-20 is a decent oil,
but with the far superior TGMO 0W-20 costing only $5.65/L or $25/5L jug it makes little sense to use anything else in Canada.

The OP need not be concerned about the 0W-20 being too light when wintering in Florida (lucky guy), it's not, but if it makes him feel better, pick-up a bottle of M1 0W-40 in the States and top-up with a pint or so. That will raise the HTHSV to 2.7cP, on par with some of the heavier 5W-20 syn's while hardly affecting the superior start-up performance TGMO 0W-20 is renowned for.


Then why not use the straight 5W-20 that I have. I'll move on to 0W-20 after if it becomes cheaper and more widely available especially that most japanese cars now use it.
 
If you already have some Motomaster 5W-20 simply return it for refund. The 0W-20 grade is what's spec'd for your new Mazda so I don't see why you wouldn't want to use it for the piece of mind if nothing else of not having to explain why you're not in the event of a warranty claim?
As far as availability and cost is concerned. Is dropping by your local Toyota or Lexus dealer that inconvenient and is $25/5L jug that expensive? A 0W-20 is not going to get any cheaper than that unless you can negotiate an even better deal for some bulk TGMO 0W-20 (it's also supplied in 205L drums to dealers) as some members have.
Also remember you'll get 1-2% better fuel economy on TGMO vs a 5W-20 so the real price difference is negligible.
 
I bought the 4 jugs of Motomaster almost 3 years ago. SN, new jugs and all but not sure I could get a refund or exchange them after that long.
 
A refund no since it's over a year, but an exchange for an in store credit should still work. You might even profit on the transaction.
Just tell them you've don't have the receipt (which I'm sure you don't).
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A refund no since it's over a year, but an exchange for an in store credit should still work. You might even profit on the transaction.
Just tell them you've don't have the receipt (which I'm sure you don't).


LOL, I still have it. $14.99/jug, quite a bargain.
 
Originally Posted By: Minou
I'm still unsure of the oil filter location on my new 2014 Mazda 6 GS (canadian mid trim). Front or back of the engine? Can't see from above and the underneath of the engine bay is shrouded.

I'm planning to use the OEM filter. $10.50 at my dealer. Will get a few in the US next month at likely half that price.

Factory oil recommendation for the US and Canada is 0W-20 API SM ILSAC. Outside of warranty concerns, would using the Motomaster Formula 1 Synthetic 5W-20 SN/GF5 ILSAC that I have in stock be OK?

BTW, the factory recommendation for Mexico is 5W-30 and 5W-20 as an alternate.

Should I worry about fuel dilution in my DI engine?

Seen on some Mazda forums that the oil pan plug requires an 8 mm allen key. Is that right? Never seen one before.


Yes, 8mm allen key is correct. Remove the large access panel under the engine to reveal the filter and drain plug. I'd recommend using an 8mm allen socket w/ 3/8" ratchet. An oil filter cap wrench also helps, as the access panel doesn't leave much clearance to fit a typical band-type or plier-type filter wrench.
I'm sticking with 0W-20 since that is what the manual recommends. Using the Mazda GF-5 w/Moly version now. Once the warranty period is up and the car is paid for, I might switch to 5W-20.
UOAs on BITOG for Mazda3 Skyactiv engines DO show some level of fuel dilution, but it does not seem to increase wear. I have a short commute to work, so I'm being careful to do a longer trip at least once a week, and I also plan to use the 'severe' service schedule.
 
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