1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Call it NNJ
A.K.A. "The Frankenblazer" as.. ITS ALIVE!!!

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Now, it took some doin', but I had to crawl up under there and bang on the starter with my 6" ratchet extension. It started after this, and I started it up 3 more times to confirm.

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
May indicate a shorted cell .


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What is the rating on the ctek? 2A?


Something low like that, yes.

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Sizzling will occur at high voltages when hydrogen gas will evolve off the plates. If it is controlled and part of a charge procedure, and the charge rate is slow so that the gases recombine, no biggie.

Something leaking from a battery is another story. I'm worried that you have a dried out cell. If you take the ctek off, put a multimeter on there (or just turn the key and look at the voltage gauge), what is the reading?


12.95V and climbing when I had the multimeter on it before hooking it up. I also reconnected my Power Pulse desulfator; with it on, battery voltage ultimately goes to about 12.4V.

As to dried-out cell.. Unsure. I will watch its behavior! And the CTEK DOES desulfate...
 
Now, a different question: I crawled up under there, and spun the engine at the TC to make sure it wasnt locked up. And, another interesting thing: There were some turns of the TC that were easy, and some that it felt harder to turn. Weird.. Well, I turned it past the "hard to turn" part so I was satisfied the engine was tturning (I saw the fan blade turning too) and I started it up. And..

There was no noise!! No knocky, hollow noise! It ran with NO MISS! I turned the engine off, but it sure did have perfect rhythm. And no (changing) noise!

Now.. Was this something imagined (because I turned the TC,) something real (Could I be on to something?,) or is this not indicative of anything.. or is it?
 
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Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
May indicate a shorted cell .
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This.


I wish the caps came off, or I could check.

Should I continue to monitor voltages to make sure all is OK with that battery?
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
My job rides on a car is where this comes from, and we all know how important it is for me to have a job.

Last time I checked, Jersey City and the surrounding areas had decent enough public trans. Let's face it, you don't NEED a car, you WANT a car.


Got to get to Linden.

And Bayonne to jersey City adds more time than one would think, what, with either Light Rail http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson–Bergen_Light_Rail or buses .

To get to Linden, which is Union County, one must then take the PATH train, which stops in Newark; and exchange all the way in Essex County. And, again.. Essex and union Counties are some distance. The train does run there, but not only is that the most expensive option, after 1. Taking the PATH train (great for NYC travels to Manhattan, $2.25 from Newark to 33rd St Madison Square Garden cant be beat but still) 2. the Light Rail, which does not run as frequently as you think it does, to 3. A bus or two, to bridge from train to close to job, or bus to bus.. These things add up.

Getting there at 7AM would be a real stretch, as first light rail does not happen until somewhere around like 5:16am -AT THE EARLIEST- maybe even as late as 5:30...

Especially since my new Dunkin Donuts fast food establishment is Dunkin Donuts, and is in Roselle/Linden...

You are correct that there is "a fair amount of public transportation in the area" but this does not necessarily mean that this information is the answer to a problem, QP.
 
Originally Posted By: racer12306
If you had to whack the starter, it likely needs replacement and will fail again.




Yup, sure did. I knew right away, from the "Its Dead" thread:

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It is either the starter, or the engine.

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It is either dead, or it needs a starter.



No idea why it froze up like that!

I started it up three times after, to be sure it would.

Could something like that make car run ?? questionably?
 
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Belt is squeaking because it became wet, noise will go away when it dries (and if I can guess your next train of thought, stay away from the Belt Dressing)


I can say that I am showing progress in staying away from the belt dressings, battery terminal cleaners, brake clean sprays not used for cleaning brakes, etc.

Also going to stay away from Taurus Bad Mechanic guy, and will let my shop I am friendly with get a new bolt in! Tap/drill, etc. They want to remove the manifold to put in the bolt, they said that since its cut and the bolt is flush (a blind hole?) that the manifold needs to come off. And then it is quick and easy after that. Also to get a new donut gasket.
 
If you do have a con-rod hitting the pan, and if you do have a low battery, whenever your engine stops with the rod on the pan, the starter will draw extra current smashing that con-rod cap against the baffle/ pan/ whatever.

The low battery couldn't crank past this part. You manually turning the engine got it past this point then when it came around again it had enough inertia to make it.
 
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One other option might be to head back to the junkyard and ask them to blow the bolt out with a torch. This will only work if it's a through hole, not a blind hole. It should take all of five minutes to do, but unless they guy is very careful the threads will be wiped out so you'll have to use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut.

Another option (again, assuming this is a through hole) for a quick repair is to heat the bolt and pop it out with an air hammer. It will leave steel in there clogging up the threads in the manifold, but once everything cools you can use a pick to peel that right out and screw in a new stud. For that sort of thing, go to an exhaust shop. It shouldn't cost much because there's little time required.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3129932#Post3129932
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you do have a con-rod hitting the pan, and if you do have a low battery, whenever your engine stops with the rod on the pan, the starter will draw extra current smashing that con-rod cap against the baffle/ pan/ whatever.

The low battery couldn't crank past this part. You manually turning the engine got it past this point then when it came around again it had enough inertia to make it.


Could it BE hitting a baffle inside the pan since the hump location was switched from 2WD to 4WD? Or is that fallacy. ? (Engine 1994 in a 1993 truck, pan had to switch, I coulda took baffle out?? .. ??)

Or, if it is that, does engine need to come apart so I get a good rotating assembly. Working with what I have, so I know what the outcome will be?

I've just had to leave it alone for now.. I make sure the oil is good, and it is..
 
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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Charging up my NAPA battery and I notice some battery acid coming from the left side, also a small sizzling sound. Battery is on the CTEK.

Can I go to NAPA with my receipt and get a new over this?

Going out to vehicle in other car, to check for starting. On later.


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It would need to fail a test. Does it? If I were NAPA I would say fix your CTEK.


As of yet, it fails no test.
 
In a little while, I go start up the car (assuming that is done with) and take it to garage. "Stan the Tool Man" is someone i am getting away from, since I can see he is a guy that needs money and can hustle people to get it.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
There was no noise!! No knocky, hollow noise!
Wait...what?!

So you bashed on the starter for a while, then turned the engine over by hand and now the knock is gone?!

Dude, your car is possessed.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I'm confused. Do you still have the Taurus?


No, I don't. Taurus was sold, I got stiffed on the sale.

So I got $250 for the Taurus.

Will never accept "I'll give you the other half later" again!
 
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