Anyone ever go 15K on a MC FL-820s?

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I am just curious about it. I am nearly at 10K on this OC and I have been toying with the idea of running 15K on this filter (I will be UOA'ing the oil to see if it can go out to 15K as well), but I curious if anyone has ran a FL-820s that long.

TIA for your experiences and thoughts.
 
I don't think I would take that kind of risk with a $4 filter. Better to just change it at the halfway point or use a filter intended for extended drain intervals.
 
Second. Even if you were to swap out for a second MC 820 you would still be ahead of the price point for many extended OCI filters.
 
Originally Posted By: Hyde244
Second. Even if you were to swap out for a second MC 820 you would still be ahead of the price point for many extended OCI filters.

Oh no doubt; I paid $2.30 each for the last group of 15 that I bought. I probably will change it at 10K, I was just curious.
 
Just changed the oil today in my wife's 2005 4.6 Explorer. It has 9,000 miles with Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 SM, with a Motorcraft FL820S oil filter. As soon as I can I'll cut the filter open. Any suggestions on what's the best way to do it with a Dremel or RotoZip is appreciated, ie the preferred cutting type blade.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
I am just curious about it. I am nearly at 10K on this OC and I have been toying with the idea of running 15K on this filter.


Agree with the other inputs. Next time if your oil can go 15k, then just change the filter at 7.5K and top off. Or start using an extended OCI filter like the Ultra.
 
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Just changed the oil today in my wife's 2005 4.6 Explorer. It has 9,000 miles with Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 SM, with a Motorcraft FL820S oil filter. As soon as I can I'll cut the filter open. Any suggestions on what's the best way to do it with a Dremel or RotoZip is appreciated, ie the preferred cutting type blade.

I am sure that it will go 10K; I have already ran one that long and dissected it (you can search for the photos). I use a filter cutter, but a hacksaw will suffice in a pinch.
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The big advantage to a motorcraft filter is the thread end bypass valve. Its weakness is using a paper media rather than synthetic. Paper will decay with both time and or mileage. I would roll a new filter every six months or 6000 miles.
 
15K might be pushing it a little. If your UOA says you can go 15K on the oil, I like ZeeOSix's suggestion to change at 7.5K and top off. BTW, $2.30/each for those filters is a major score! Even it you use two per OCI, that's only $4.60/OCI vs $7-9/OCI for a Fram Ultra.

I've been meaning to ask you, is your current oil selection a secret until the UOA is posted?
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Looking forward to it.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
15K might be pushing it a little. If your UOA says you can go 15K on the oil, I like ZeeOSix's suggestion to change at 7.5K and top off. BTW, $2.30/each for those filters is a major score! Even it you use two per OCI, that's only $4.60/OCI vs $7-9/OCI for a Fram Ultra.

I've been meaning to ask you, is your current oil selection a secret until the UOA is posted?
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Looking forward to it.

I guess I will not push the envelope; I have a few hundred miles to hit 10K and I will change the filter then. As you said, I could use 2 for each OCI and still be ahead of the game. AAP and those codes have been veddy veddy good to me; $2.30 each out the door was a steal.

PS...the name/type of the oil is being withheld to protect the innocent (me) and the foolish (my friend), who, by the way, has found that crow goes down much better with a quart of your favorite motor oil.
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What kind of special filters was Honda using with 10k mile OCI and only changing the filter every other time? The answer is nothing special. Any MC filter should do 20k miles no sweat in a non-sludged motor. Changing a filter at some magical number like 10,000 miles is laughable to me. Many people never change them at all, the filters don't blow up nor do the engines. A friend runs Purolator Classics in his Chrysler mini van for 18,000 miles (or longer) with no issues. He doesn't lose any sleep thinking he's pushing the envelope either.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
What kind of special filters was Honda using with 10k mile OCI and only changing the filter every other time? The answer is nothing special. Any MC filter should do 20k miles no sweat in a non-sludged motor. Changing a filter at some magical number like 10,000 miles is laughable to me. Many people never change them at all, the filters don't blow up nor do the engines. A friend runs Purolator Classics in his Chrysler mini van for 18,000 miles (or longer) with no issues. He doesn't lose any sleep thinking he's pushing the envelope either.

After 10K, the ADBV looked like this:

20130418081646.jpg


The whole dissection is here.

My concern then and now is the ADBV failing due to "wear". Would running it 15K or 20K cause a failure? No way to know unless it is attempted...and I had hoped someone had already been adventuresome
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My 1994 350+k miles LS40 OCI: 7-8k/6mo with dino, 14-16k/12mo with syn. FCI is once a year, reuse oil filter with dino. The most expensive oil filter I use in that car is P1, other filters are OCOD, Motocraft FL400S and other various low cost filters($2-3).

I think in a clean engine there isn't much to filter, even the OCOD can hold 6-7 grams of debris. If an engine generates more than 6-7 grams of metals then it's dying, no matter how good a filter you use it will die soon. That LS400 engine is still running almost as smoothly as new, the other car parts is different story.

The filter is mounted horizontal on that engine, after 1 year of use up to 15-16k miles the filter still had much oil inside after laying upside down for several days, that means the ADBV was working okay.

Summary, you can use Motocraft oil filter for a full 15-16k miles OCI without problem !
 
Originally Posted By: HardbodyLoyalist
I don't think I would take that kind of risk with a $4 filter. Better to just change it at the halfway point or use a filter intended for extended drain intervals.



I agree, its only 4$

might as well just change it.
 
Impressive dissection photo's! I've been debating switching back to the FL820S and you've helped make my mind, thank you. As for my paper vs synthetic media comment, I was clearly wrong. Paper seems to be suitable for an extended OCI. Fear is why most of us under utilize our oil and apparently filters too. I would love to see a 15K mile filter dissection, keep up the good work.
 
I am in the midst of soybean harvest and winter wheat planting (farming is my second job) so have not yet dissected the P1 I ran for over 15K miles. There certainly weren't any issues with high differential pressure even with that many miles.

I left the oil in it and checked the other day and it's sitting upside down in my filter drain can and is still holing the oil, so I know the ADBV is still working. I wouldn't be the least bit fearful of 15K, as the FL820S is a premium filter.

BTW, 2010FX4, the FL820s you donated is the first one in the test regimen for the DP tests. I changed back to 5W20 from the 30 grade and that filter is in there now. Warmed up, the MC and the 5W20 combo has a very low DP... around 2-3 psi @ 2000 rpm with 190F EOT. That's from the gauges not the datalogger, so more precise results will come with the datalogger.
 
I am currently near the end of a 15k mile run on M/C FL400S on wife's van. When it's OCI time, I'll UOA and also disect filter. I doubt that the FL400 and FL820 are too much different, other than physical properties (shape, thread pitch). I think you'd be surprised how well the MC fitler would hold up to 15k miles, at least in a clean running engine that is in good shape.


Jim - what order are you running the DP filter tests in? Have you scheduled the fitlers I sent you?
 
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No order selected. I will probably do several in one day, a few at a time. Until the soybeans are off, the ground worked and the wheat planted, not but my writing commitments and emergencies of anything else is getting done.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I am in the midst of soybean harvest and winter wheat planting (farming is my second job) so have not yet dissected the P1 I ran for over 15K miles. There certainly weren't any issues with high differential pressure even with that many miles.

I left the oil in it and checked the other day and it's sitting upside down in my filter drain can and is still holing the oil, so I know the ADBV is still working. I wouldn't be the least bit fearful of 15K, as the FL820S is a premium filter.

BTW, 2010FX4, the FL820s you donated is the first one in the test regimen for the DP tests. I changed back to 5W20 from the 30 grade and that filter is in there now. Warmed up, the MC and the 5W20 combo has a very low DP... around 2-3 psi @ 2000 rpm with 190F EOT. That's from the gauges not the datalogger, so more precise results will come with the datalogger.

Decided then! I did not want to have to change it anyway (bad enough I have to climb under and pull a sample at 10K to send off for testing)
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PS...kudos for the farming!!
 
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