Coming up on 90K mi. and I want to replace my plugs, aluminum head. What are opinions on whether the head should be warm or cold when removing the old plugs? I've never had these high mileage plugs before and I'm a little concerned about getting them out.
90K IR sparkplug change 2012 Eantra
- Thread starter schuylkill
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If you are planning on replacing them with NEW immediately - you want that engine stone cold. OTW they might come out easier from a warm head. You shouldnt really see any issue cold, as the OE plug will have likely be plated to resist seizing and the threads are almost than twice as long as in the "old" days.
Originally Posted By: schuylkill
Coming up on 90K mi. and I want to replace my plugs, aluminum head. What are opinions on whether the head should be warm or cold when removing the old plugs? I've never had these high mileage plugs before and I'm a little concerned about getting them out.
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
Coming up on 90K mi. and I want to replace my plugs, aluminum head. What are opinions on whether the head should be warm or cold when removing the old plugs? I've never had these high mileage plugs before and I'm a little concerned about getting them out.
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
+1 to this. My first spark plug change in an aluminum head was with a 1997 Cadillac Seville, with over 140,000 miles on the original plugs. They came right out, no thread issues, no installation issues. A few months ago, I replaced the spark plugs in our 2005 Acura MDX with the same miles as what's on your Elantra, with no removal or installation issues.
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
+1 to this. My first spark plug change in an aluminum head was with a 1997 Cadillac Seville, with over 140,000 miles on the original plugs. They came right out, no thread issues, no installation issues. A few months ago, I replaced the spark plugs in our 2005 Acura MDX with the same miles as what's on your Elantra, with no removal or installation issues.
I changed the spark plugs on my 36000 mile Focus a few weeks ago. I got a crunch when breaking them lose, but they came out and went back in.
I changed with the engine stone cold. Was probably one of the easiest spark plug changes I have ever done!
I changed with the engine stone cold. Was probably one of the easiest spark plug changes I have ever done!
Cold! Like first-thing-in-the-morning cold.
Stone cold engine, and be very careful torqueing the new ones in. The crush gasket will crush first, then go for final torque. The new plugs do not need to be much more than hand tight. IIRC it's 1/8 turn past hand-tight. That will ensure the threads in the head are secure without being too tight.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Stone cold engine, and be very careful torqueing the new ones in. The crush gasket will crush first, then go for final torque. The new plugs do not need to be much more than hand tight. IIRC it's 1/8 turn past hand-tight. That will ensure the threads in the head are secure without being too tight.
It depends on the plug configuration. Tapered seat is usually 1/16 of a turn and gasketed plugs are typically 2/3s to 3/4ths of a turn when new.
Stone cold engine, and be very careful torqueing the new ones in. The crush gasket will crush first, then go for final torque. The new plugs do not need to be much more than hand tight. IIRC it's 1/8 turn past hand-tight. That will ensure the threads in the head are secure without being too tight.
It depends on the plug configuration. Tapered seat is usually 1/16 of a turn and gasketed plugs are typically 2/3s to 3/4ths of a turn when new.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
+1 to this. My first spark plug change in an aluminum head was with a 1997 Cadillac Seville, with over 140,000 miles on the original plugs. They came right out, no thread issues, no installation issues. A few months ago, I replaced the spark plugs in our 2005 Acura MDX with the same miles as what's on your Elantra, with no removal or installation issues.
I thought i was bad with 148k on the original plugs in my subaru. They came out very easily.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
WE have routinely gone well beyond factory limits in our fleet without misfire or codes. And the plugs still come right out, don't fall for the line that they automatically cannot be removed.
+1 to this. My first spark plug change in an aluminum head was with a 1997 Cadillac Seville, with over 140,000 miles on the original plugs. They came right out, no thread issues, no installation issues. A few months ago, I replaced the spark plugs in our 2005 Acura MDX with the same miles as what's on your Elantra, with no removal or installation issues.
I thought i was bad with 148k on the original plugs in my subaru. They came out very easily.
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You shouldn't encounter any problems since the plugs have only been in since 2012 (90k miles in such little time is crazy!).
I replaced the original NGK plugs in my 02 Accord at 166k miles and they came out so easily it was scary. If you are really concerned, remove the plug boots or coil packs (whichever your car has) the night before and soak the plug cavities with some penetrating oil. Then you should totally be good the next morning when the engine is cold. I'm really bad at "feeling the torque" so I bought a simple beam-style torque wrench from Sears and used that torque the new plugs.
I replaced the original NGK plugs in my 02 Accord at 166k miles and they came out so easily it was scary. If you are really concerned, remove the plug boots or coil packs (whichever your car has) the night before and soak the plug cavities with some penetrating oil. Then you should totally be good the next morning when the engine is cold. I'm really bad at "feeling the torque" so I bought a simple beam-style torque wrench from Sears and used that torque the new plugs.
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You shouldn't encounter any problems since the plugs have only been in since 2012 (90k miles in such little time is crazy!).
I bought the car in June 2011 but yeah it's way too much driving.
I have the new NGK plugs but from the discussion here I think I'll wait until the 100K to do the install. That's what the plugs are rated and from other reading I've done the IR plugs don't lose their gap. I like to try to keep things in good shape for max fuel efficiency and for keeping it going "forever." However I also like to be eco minded and use things as long as they are good to go.
You shouldn't encounter any problems since the plugs have only been in since 2012 (90k miles in such little time is crazy!).
I bought the car in June 2011 but yeah it's way too much driving.
I have the new NGK plugs but from the discussion here I think I'll wait until the 100K to do the install. That's what the plugs are rated and from other reading I've done the IR plugs don't lose their gap. I like to try to keep things in good shape for max fuel efficiency and for keeping it going "forever." However I also like to be eco minded and use things as long as they are good to go.
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