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#3129254 - 09/19/13 06:30 AM Blue Devil Pour-N-Go (new formula)
TechnoLoGs Offline


Registered: 04/03/13
Posts: 2606
Loc: Call it NNJ
Was curious.. Seeing as how it is a coolant additive, how does Blue Devil Pour-N-Go work? How effective against leaks?

http://www.gobluedevil.com/pourngo.html



With this one, it says you do not have to:

- Flush
- Remove antifreeze
- Wait after the 50 minutes.

Therefore, it seems more of a sealer, more workable to most people.

What is your all opinion of it?

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#3129267 - 09/19/13 06:54 AM Re: Blue Devil Pour-N-Go (new formula) [Re: TechnoLoGs]
JHZR2 Offline



Registered: 12/14/02
Posts: 38113
Loc: New Jersey
Fix your leak the right way. In general, the fewer steps or less involved the approach, the more temporary it is. That is mainly due to the ability for it to seep and cure (which even if done the long way with a removal of AF, pressurization of the system, seepage into the leaks, curing, etc. is still probably a fairly temporary approach). I doubt if any of these, even the more thorough ones are true long-term fixes. Ill bet they are more for used car lots to sell a vehicle to a sucker.

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#3129270 - 09/19/13 06:55 AM Re: Blue Devil Pour-N-Go (new formula) [Re: TechnoLoGs]
toneydoc Offline


Registered: 12/16/11
Posts: 1439
Loc: War Eagle
Never used it myself. But I am always suspect of these type sealers that are added to fluids. I have tried others in radiators and nothing has ever worked except to change out the bad part or change gaskets.
_________________________
1994 Jeep 146k Castrol 0w40
2014 Camry 14k TGMO 0w20
2010 Sebring 39k Valvoline 5w30
2014 HD Ultra 18k Valv20w50
2012 Toyota Rav4 22k Mobil 1 0w30AFE

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#3129275 - 09/19/13 07:02 AM Re: Blue Devil Pour-N-Go (new formula) [Re: TechnoLoGs]
Shannow Offline


Registered: 12/12/02
Posts: 33164
Loc: Oz
MSDS says that the active ingredient is Sodium silicate...that will work, and can be effective...but...

A head gasket leak is cylinder to coolant (or worse), there's nothing making the goop flow to the high pressure.

The goop needs to be raised to 120C or thereabouts to form "glass" and seal what it can. It will solidify wherever it sees that temperature.

the "or worse" part is the bit that gets to be interesting.

One of the "worse" is that when you shut it off, the goop leaks into the cylinder (pressure goes that way on shutoff), and the "goop" gets into the cylinder.

The other "worse" is that it gets into the oil, and finds its 120C activation temperature somewhere around a valve guide or a piston ring.

Sodium silicate is what was poured into the sumps of those "clunker" programme vehicles in order to destroy the engine.

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