Using fiberglass for metal repair
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Originally Posted By: ted s
and you will get to do it over next spring
I haven't. On my old 1990 Chevy truck in my sig, the typical cab corners were rusted out. I removed all the rust. Used a pair of tin snips and cut it back to decent metal.
I sanded everything back to shiny metal around the patch area. I then etched the bare metal with HCl (hydrochloric acid)...which does a real good job of dissolving rust (iron oxide), in case I missed any microscopic areas. I rinsed the metal well with water to remove the acid. Wiped all the metal down with acetone to make sure it was clean.
I then cut a solid polypropylene (plastic) sheet (about 1/8" thick) to the correct size and used fiberglass mat, and cloth to patch it all together. The fiberglass work had a 1.5" overlap onto the bare metal before it made contact with the plastic "patch panel". The fiberglass covered the entire patch panel as well.
Once cured, I covered the entire rock panel are of the truck, from bumper to bumper, in bed liner. 2.5 years later, no issues.
FYI....I used the polypropylene patch panels because the holes I created in the cab corner was approximately 8" tall and 24" long. I needed something to use as a "backer" to help bridge that gap.
But what's important, I haven't had any issues with the fiberglass pulling away from the metal at all. We got tough Indiana winters here....with tons of salt on the roads and lots of rain.
and you will get to do it over next spring
I haven't. On my old 1990 Chevy truck in my sig, the typical cab corners were rusted out. I removed all the rust. Used a pair of tin snips and cut it back to decent metal.
I sanded everything back to shiny metal around the patch area. I then etched the bare metal with HCl (hydrochloric acid)...which does a real good job of dissolving rust (iron oxide), in case I missed any microscopic areas. I rinsed the metal well with water to remove the acid. Wiped all the metal down with acetone to make sure it was clean.
I then cut a solid polypropylene (plastic) sheet (about 1/8" thick) to the correct size and used fiberglass mat, and cloth to patch it all together. The fiberglass work had a 1.5" overlap onto the bare metal before it made contact with the plastic "patch panel". The fiberglass covered the entire patch panel as well.
Once cured, I covered the entire rock panel are of the truck, from bumper to bumper, in bed liner. 2.5 years later, no issues.
FYI....I used the polypropylene patch panels because the holes I created in the cab corner was approximately 8" tall and 24" long. I needed something to use as a "backer" to help bridge that gap.
But what's important, I haven't had any issues with the fiberglass pulling away from the metal at all. We got tough Indiana winters here....with tons of salt on the roads and lots of rain.
Originally Posted By: ted s
and you will get to do it over next spring
Not if you do it properly. "Properly" means getting rid of ALL the rust between fiberglass and steel, which involves lots of sanding and phosphoric acid gel. Then "properly" means sealing the backside of the repair such that moisture is excluded.
A proper fiberglass repair will last many years.
and you will get to do it over next spring
Not if you do it properly. "Properly" means getting rid of ALL the rust between fiberglass and steel, which involves lots of sanding and phosphoric acid gel. Then "properly" means sealing the backside of the repair such that moisture is excluded.
A proper fiberglass repair will last many years.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
But what's important, I haven't had any issues with the fiberglass pulling away from the metal at all.
The trick is to keep the glass as thin as possible (while still being strong), and to make certain that you have the best bond possible between glass and steel.
I haven't checked, but there have got to be some YouTube videos on fiberglass repair.
Fiberglass is a perfectly acceptable way to repair rust holes for those who lack the skills and equipment for actual sheet-metal repair. And it's cheap and fast. Very stinky, though: you'll be smelling fiberglass resin for a week after you're done, even when you're far away from the scene of the crime.
But what's important, I haven't had any issues with the fiberglass pulling away from the metal at all.
The trick is to keep the glass as thin as possible (while still being strong), and to make certain that you have the best bond possible between glass and steel.
I haven't checked, but there have got to be some YouTube videos on fiberglass repair.
Fiberglass is a perfectly acceptable way to repair rust holes for those who lack the skills and equipment for actual sheet-metal repair. And it's cheap and fast. Very stinky, though: you'll be smelling fiberglass resin for a week after you're done, even when you're far away from the scene of the crime.
There are other alternatives to welding, IMO none are as good but will provide satisfactory results.
Sheet metal can be affixed with rivets and adhesives and hold for a long time.
Its all in the prep work, cut the rust out to clean metal then cut a nice patch that fits well, then use something like this..
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html?reltype=2&parent_id=337
Sheet metal can be affixed with rivets and adhesives and hold for a long time.
Its all in the prep work, cut the rust out to clean metal then cut a nice patch that fits well, then use something like this..
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html?reltype=2&parent_id=337
I had wondered about JB Weld or some other epoxy method; that would seem to work too.
I have not ground out the rust. This was covered over until the other day by the rust, until I rapped on it, to see just how bad it was. The duct tape remnants was added overnight to try to keep some of the rain out of it; doesn't appear to have worked.
I figure, the "right" method is to replace the hatch. But it'd be cheaper to patch and see if I could eek out a few more years as-is. Not sure what a hatch would go for, but I'm guessing it's a three-man job to replace.
I have not ground out the rust. This was covered over until the other day by the rust, until I rapped on it, to see just how bad it was. The duct tape remnants was added overnight to try to keep some of the rain out of it; doesn't appear to have worked.
I figure, the "right" method is to replace the hatch. But it'd be cheaper to patch and see if I could eek out a few more years as-is. Not sure what a hatch would go for, but I'm guessing it's a three-man job to replace.
Originally Posted By: supton
I had wondered about JB Weld or some other epoxy method; that would seem to work too.
On another truck I had, I purchased an aluminum sheet and cut it with tin snips to repair these typical rusted out cab corners on Chevy trucks.
Got rid of all the rust. Clean it up well. After round the aluminum patches over my leg to "match" the curvature of the cab corners, I used West System 2-part epoxy (any decent 2-part epoxy should work, it's just what I had around from working on my boats) and put a thick bead around the edges of the aluminum. It sets in 5 minutes with the hardner I used, so I sat on a bucket and held the patch panels in place. I used a straight edge to "feather in" the epoxy that squeezed out of the edged of the aluminum to help blend it all in.
Once again, I put bed liner over it all. I still see that truck, 8 years later, and the patch panels are still on there.....so that works as well.
I had wondered about JB Weld or some other epoxy method; that would seem to work too.
On another truck I had, I purchased an aluminum sheet and cut it with tin snips to repair these typical rusted out cab corners on Chevy trucks.
Got rid of all the rust. Clean it up well. After round the aluminum patches over my leg to "match" the curvature of the cab corners, I used West System 2-part epoxy (any decent 2-part epoxy should work, it's just what I had around from working on my boats) and put a thick bead around the edges of the aluminum. It sets in 5 minutes with the hardner I used, so I sat on a bucket and held the patch panels in place. I used a straight edge to "feather in" the epoxy that squeezed out of the edged of the aluminum to help blend it all in.
Once again, I put bed liner over it all. I still see that truck, 8 years later, and the patch panels are still on there.....so that works as well.
I used to work in a body shop, and for minor rust holes on my own beater, I used "Claw Glass", which was fiberglass reinforced filler. Grind out the rust, dent in the metal with a pointed body hammer, and just fill it in with mud.
Originally Posted By: supton
I had thought about using aluminum, and epoxying it in place; but figured I'd run into some weird galvanic reaction. I'd rather do that than deal with fiberglass I think.
I'm a chemist....in a electro-plating lab. I know a bit about galvanic reactions.
I coated the backside (the side of the aluminum patch panel touching the steel on the truck) of the patch plate with epoxy to encapsulate it. I encapsulated the back of the plate, put an extra thick bead around the edges, and held it against the truck.
I had thought about using aluminum, and epoxying it in place; but figured I'd run into some weird galvanic reaction. I'd rather do that than deal with fiberglass I think.
I'm a chemist....in a electro-plating lab. I know a bit about galvanic reactions.
I coated the backside (the side of the aluminum patch panel touching the steel on the truck) of the patch plate with epoxy to encapsulate it. I encapsulated the back of the plate, put an extra thick bead around the edges, and held it against the truck.
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