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Thinking rod knock, flex plate and/or TC, you say
- Thread starter TechnoLoGs
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Now, here is a Q.. One side of the plugs has vertical lines, the other: Three horizontal. Does the three horizontal lines part go on the plugs, and the vertical to the distributor? Thank you!
Waiting a little to hook up the two wires (coil/Cylinder 2) and go to store for 2" 1/2" drive extension.
Waiting a little to hook up the two wires (coil/Cylinder 2) and go to store for 2" 1/2" drive extension.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Put the plug wires back like you found 'em. Sounds like the right angle boots are for strain relief/ proper routing around the exhaust manifold.
I presume you've been changing wires one at a time to keep the order right?
Yes. I have one done so far. And the only other wire I took off was the coil wire. No confusing that with anything except the coil wire.
And thank GOD.. the plug boots had a side marked "Coil/Dist."
Truck runs a little better with the 1 changed. Now for Cyls. # 4 and 6! *I am doing what I can do myself before I seek out an Indy. Shops charge too much. I checked.
I also just got this. Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
Put the plug wires back like you found 'em. Sounds like the right angle boots are for strain relief/ proper routing around the exhaust manifold.
I presume you've been changing wires one at a time to keep the order right?
Yes. I have one done so far. And the only other wire I took off was the coil wire. No confusing that with anything except the coil wire.
And thank GOD.. the plug boots had a side marked "Coil/Dist."
Truck runs a little better with the 1 changed. Now for Cyls. # 4 and 6! *I am doing what I can do myself before I seek out an Indy. Shops charge too much. I checked.
I also just got this. Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
^^^ Gonna go for it. Gonna take the wobble sockets, my meds to concentrate, and go do the #s 4 and 6 that I have done before!!!
Maybe I can get the last two with some FLEX sockets, and the wobble.. ???
Maybe I can get the last two with some FLEX sockets, and the wobble.. ???
I think the 2 inch wobble extension is a mistake, but should come in handy for something else down the road. A 2 inch straight extension should be more appropriate for the "easy" plugs. That's really a matter of personal preference though so you use what you like. For the plugs by the steering shaft that 2 inch wobble will be too thick to clear. A wobble extension to help with that should be at least 6 inches but longer is better. 4 feet would be just fine.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
I think the 2 inch wobble extension is a mistake, but should come in handy for something else down the road. A 2 inch straight extension should be more appropriate for the "easy" plugs. That's really a matter of personal preference though so you use what you like. For the plugs by the steering shaft that 2 inch wobble will be too thick to clear. A wobble extension to help with that should be at least 6 inches but longer is better. 4 feet would be just fine.
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
Maybe I need the 1/4" drive one for those?
I think the 2 inch wobble extension is a mistake, but should come in handy for something else down the road. A 2 inch straight extension should be more appropriate for the "easy" plugs. That's really a matter of personal preference though so you use what you like. For the plugs by the steering shaft that 2 inch wobble will be too thick to clear. A wobble extension to help with that should be at least 6 inches but longer is better. 4 feet would be just fine.
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
Maybe I need the 1/4" drive one for those?
Also, I have to get it to pass inspection tomorrow. Premium gasoline filled up from half tank? Should I put in any more Redline to tank, etc? Or just premium gas... no "Guaranteed To Pass" stuff from Walmart that costs as much as the 93-pctane gas will? Should I drive it hard today? Let it get hot/ITUs? Thanks.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
You can stack entensions together as much as you like but the problem I think you're going to run into is that the 2" extension necessarily becomes very wide to accept a ratchet or another extension right where it'll be against the steering shaft. A longer extension (3/8" drive is fine) will be much narrower and can pass by the shaft or just touch it, then widen up to accept a ratchet or another extension further away where that's okay. Your decision to use a wobble is probably a good one. I've always found them to be a bit scary but a long wobble should be helpful here.
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
You can stack entensions together as much as you like but the problem I think you're going to run into is that the 2" extension necessarily becomes very wide to accept a ratchet or another extension right where it'll be against the steering shaft. A longer extension (3/8" drive is fine) will be much narrower and can pass by the shaft or just touch it, then widen up to accept a ratchet or another extension further away where that's okay. Your decision to use a wobble is probably a good one. I've always found them to be a bit scary but a long wobble should be helpful here.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
You can stack entensions together as much as you like but the problem I think you're going to run into is that the 2" extension necessarily becomes very wide to accept a ratchet or another extension right where it'll be against the steering shaft. A longer extension (3/8" drive is fine) will be much narrower and can pass by the shaft or just touch it, then widen up to accept a ratchet or another extension further away where that's okay. Your decision to use a wobble is probably a good one. I've always found them to be a bit scary but a long wobble should be helpful here.
I appreciate this.
I am going to try the wobble sockets on the two remaining "easy" ones (passenger side.) I am going to pause to photograph them, as much as I can so my phone camera zooms for sharp. So, I will go do the two.. trying the wobble! To start.
Also, between now and Wednesday I need to try all the tips to get the car to pass inspection. Found out we are taking it to Secaucus inspection as-is....
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
For the steering shaft ones, can I put my 6" extension on the wobble Or, again, too thick.. ?
You can stack entensions together as much as you like but the problem I think you're going to run into is that the 2" extension necessarily becomes very wide to accept a ratchet or another extension right where it'll be against the steering shaft. A longer extension (3/8" drive is fine) will be much narrower and can pass by the shaft or just touch it, then widen up to accept a ratchet or another extension further away where that's okay. Your decision to use a wobble is probably a good one. I've always found them to be a bit scary but a long wobble should be helpful here.
I appreciate this.
I am going to try the wobble sockets on the two remaining "easy" ones (passenger side.) I am going to pause to photograph them, as much as I can so my phone camera zooms for sharp. So, I will go do the two.. trying the wobble! To start.
Also, between now and Wednesday I need to try all the tips to get the car to pass inspection. Found out we are taking it to Secaucus inspection as-is....
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
ed to try all the tips to get the car to pass inspection. Found out we are taking it to Secaucus inspection as-is....
Keep in mind that there's no penalty for failing inspection other than driving around with the little red sticker. Either you pass, or they give you a red sticker and a printout that shows the gas readings from your car.
ed to try all the tips to get the car to pass inspection. Found out we are taking it to Secaucus inspection as-is....
Keep in mind that there's no penalty for failing inspection other than driving around with the little red sticker. Either you pass, or they give you a red sticker and a printout that shows the gas readings from your car.
I found out very very quickly that the wobble socket turns differently than a normal...I returned the wobble socket.
It is presently cooling before I go after the other plugs I can get to.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
See the end that plugs into the socket? See how it's not square, but kind of bulged in the middle? That's to allow the socket to rock back and forth (wobble) to fit in tight places or if you need a slight angle on it.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I found out very very quickly that the wobble socket turns differently than a normal...
Yes, it does...on purpose.
I must have missed something again...so you've abandoned the tapping/knocking sound and are now doing a tune-up?
As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once...
Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
See the end that plugs into the socket? See how it's not square, but kind of bulged in the middle? That's to allow the socket to rock back and forth (wobble) to fit in tight places or if you need a slight angle on it.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I found out very very quickly that the wobble socket turns differently than a normal...
Yes, it does...on purpose.
I must have missed something again...so you've abandoned the tapping/knocking sound and are now doing a tune-up?
As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once...
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
See the end that plugs into the socket? See how it's not square, but kind of bulged in the middle? That's to allow the socket to rock back and forth (wobble) to fit in tight places or if you need a slight angle on it.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I found out very very quickly that the wobble socket turns differently than a normal...
Yes, it does...on purpose.
I must have missed something again...so you've abandoned the tapping/knocking sound and are now doing a tune-up?
As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once...
Yes, there is enough evidence as to NOT Rod Knock that I know it is something else. I have my ramps now, too. When I get more funds (I have all the time, need to work on focus,) I can check my sharpie marks to see if yonyon suggested TC hitting bellhousing, and I also strongly feel oil pan may be dented. It looks cratered and appears to be coming from there, honestly.. I can't change torque converters NOR flex plates NOR oil pans with what I have!!!
Just that changing the oil pan.. I need to find an indy! I see one that may do it for $250, but how much labor is involved? I could get another oil pan, I got rid of the spare engine a few days ago. No more 500lbs engine in the back, though I had intended it for donor parts. But it has to do so much before that I just junked it to a shop. So it would be new oil pan, yes.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Why is it "Wobble?" And will it help me?
See the end that plugs into the socket? See how it's not square, but kind of bulged in the middle? That's to allow the socket to rock back and forth (wobble) to fit in tight places or if you need a slight angle on it.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
I found out very very quickly that the wobble socket turns differently than a normal...
Yes, it does...on purpose.
I must have missed something again...so you've abandoned the tapping/knocking sound and are now doing a tune-up?
As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once...
Yes, there is enough evidence as to NOT Rod Knock that I know it is something else. I have my ramps now, too. When I get more funds (I have all the time, need to work on focus,) I can check my sharpie marks to see if yonyon suggested TC hitting bellhousing, and I also strongly feel oil pan may be dented. It looks cratered and appears to be coming from there, honestly.. I can't change torque converters NOR flex plates NOR oil pans with what I have!!!
Just that changing the oil pan.. I need to find an indy! I see one that may do it for $250, but how much labor is involved? I could get another oil pan, I got rid of the spare engine a few days ago. No more 500lbs engine in the back, though I had intended it for donor parts. But it has to do so much before that I just junked it to a shop. So it would be new oil pan, yes.
^^^^ Oh.. and I bought a FLEXI (U-joint) spark plug socket, 3/8" drive. It pivots ..
I also want to earnestly thank everyone here, as well, for helping me get the truck as good as it can be. This is not taken lightly, yeah I saw a Bugatti and no more Volvo and there will be a third IN TIME, yes, but thank you so much for the help on this! Those cylinders on the driver side scare me, though I maybe got one out once. Anyways. I will post pics of, but I now have some rest and can change more plugs.
Thank you, all.
And I also noticed something troubling about my coil.. The next video will be a car-specific update, I tried to wade into the waters of other people's videos of their 4.3s on Youtube, but Youtube disabled Video Responses, so that one was a first and a last. (Some guy was talking about his 1994 Vortec while drunk. I made a video with all my plate numbers, VIN, etc. I re-made it but it lost the spirit of guy's first video. So, now I refocus to doing what I cna do, maybe even check that torque converter mark.)
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Thank you, all.
And I also noticed something troubling about my coil.. The next video will be a car-specific update, I tried to wade into the waters of other people's videos of their 4.3s on Youtube, but Youtube disabled Video Responses, so that one was a first and a last. (Some guy was talking about his 1994 Vortec while drunk. I made a video with all my plate numbers, VIN, etc. I re-made it but it lost the spirit of guy's first video. So, now I refocus to doing what I cna do, maybe even check that torque converter mark.)
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Why jump to changing the pan
Perhaps you didn't hear what RF Overlord told you
" As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once..."
This is good advice as considering how this engine was removed (sawzall through an exhaust manifold), transported and installed (was it supported on a floor jack/2x4 on the oil pan).
Start with a visual inspection. You should be able to see and feel a deep dent. You mentioned the pan was removed before installing the engine, assume it was inspected then.
Do the visual inspection first SAFELY (ramps,wheel chocks,etc) , and then Iwhile on the ramps I would listen for a sound from the oil pan area
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Why jump to changing the pan
Perhaps you didn't hear what RF Overlord told you
" As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once..."
This is good advice as considering how this engine was removed (sawzall through an exhaust manifold), transported and installed (was it supported on a floor jack/2x4 on the oil pan).
Start with a visual inspection. You should be able to see and feel a deep dent. You mentioned the pan was removed before installing the engine, assume it was inspected then.
Do the visual inspection first SAFELY (ramps,wheel chocks,etc) , and then Iwhile on the ramps I would listen for a sound from the oil pan area
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Why jump to changing the pan
Perhaps you didn't hear what RF Overlord told you
" As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once..."
This is good advice as considering how this engine was removed (sawzall through an exhaust manifold), transported and installed (was it supported on a floor jack/2x4 on the oil pan).
Start with a visual inspection. You should be able to see and feel a deep dent. You mentioned the pan was removed before installing the engine, assume it was inspected then.
Do the visual inspection first SAFELY (ramps,wheel chocks,etc) , and then Iwhile on the ramps I would listen for a sound from the oil pan area
I will surely do this. Thank you for the clarification! I get jumbled sometimes.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
And, at one time I think I had advice on how to do an oil pan... ? How much is labor usually on that?
Ok, cool.. Gonna go change the plugs with the flexi socket. The driver two, for now, then pause..
Why jump to changing the pan
Perhaps you didn't hear what RF Overlord told you
" As for that tapping/knocking, it definitely sounds too hollow to be a rod knock and it isn't an exhaust leak. Any chance there's a dent in the oil pan and something it hitting it internally? Happened to a friend once..."
This is good advice as considering how this engine was removed (sawzall through an exhaust manifold), transported and installed (was it supported on a floor jack/2x4 on the oil pan).
Start with a visual inspection. You should be able to see and feel a deep dent. You mentioned the pan was removed before installing the engine, assume it was inspected then.
Do the visual inspection first SAFELY (ramps,wheel chocks,etc) , and then Iwhile on the ramps I would listen for a sound from the oil pan area
I will surely do this. Thank you for the clarification! I get jumbled sometimes.
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