2011 Nissan Sentra 2.0L Amsoil SS 5W-30 15,341 mi

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Here is the UOA for my 2011 Nissan Sentra. The oil was Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 with the Amsoil 15,000 mile filter spec'd for the vehicle. I had the oil in the vehicle for 317 days. The oil saw a lot of heavy traffic during the summer plus one trip to Charlotte NC.

What do you guys think of the analysis? Is it good? Bad? Does it look right for the type and brand of oil? I am thinking I should make my next OCI either 10K or 12K but I'd like to see what the group thinks.






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Honestly. Wow.

Do it again. It's probably an EA15k filter so you can't go more than 15,000 miles on that and you're definitely severe service on the oil so same 15,000 mile limit and it seems perfect.
 
Absolutely outstanding in terms of wear, The thickening is troubling in that it could be related to high oxidation of the oil itself. That is just guessing because you didnt have Oxidation/nitration tests run. TBN is spent. I would cut the OCI back to about 12k and use about any major synthetic and it should go the distance if you don't use Amsoil again. Amsoil has some of the best HDMO's, gear oils etc in the industry. Their PCMO's are nothing special IMO since "syn" and additive packs have come so far.
 
Looks good for 15K, but me thinks you have a air filtration problem. Change the filter and tighten fittings. I'd do it again. Nice UOA
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Absolutely outstanding in terms of wear, The thickening is troubling in that it could be related to high oxidation of the oil itself. That is just guessing because you didnt have Oxidation/nitration tests run. TBN is spent. I would cut the OCI back to about 12k and use about any major synthetic and it should go the distance if you don't use Amsoil again. Amsoil has some of the best HDMO's, gear oils etc in the industry. Their PCMO's are nothing special IMO since "syn" and additive packs have come so far.


You could so that if you ignored the fact that this UOA only shows how Amsoil holds up in his engine and not any other oil so the results aren't applicable to another oil- which may or may not do so well.

Also if you stick with Amsoil you'll retain their warranty if their oil or filter fails your repairs are covered- and I know of no other oil AND filter that offers that.
 
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To be conservative I would pull back as well. TBN is gone. Since you do not have TAN/OX/NIT it is difficult even to judge but the oil thickened which tells you something.

According to PQIA the Vis @ 100C is 10.5. Not sure how much increase is considered bad.
 
Yes, I am running a K&N filter and have since just about new. It was dirty in one area, I cleaned that area and reinstalled. I have clean and re oil in the next few months.
 
What if you ditched the amsoil filter and used the factory filter at 6 month interval topping off after the filter change should get you to a one year oci. The top off oil should boost the tbn enough to keep from dipping below the 1.0 threshold.
 
"SSO oils are very shear stable and there's little fuel dilution in this test (FP of +425F). So you get slow thickening due to evaporation & oxidation. Note that in this case the solids level (0.2%), is very low for the # of miles. So I'd say most of the thickening is from evaporation.

These small, fuel efficient, non-turbo engines (your Mazda 3 is another), are the best candidates for long service intervals. A gas hog V-8 with a relatively small sump (5-6 qts), degrades the oil much faster.

Nothing to complain about here, but if you cut the OCI back by 10%-15%, the lead & tin wear (from low TBN), would just about go away.

Tk"

^ I think this is spot on.
 
Also try to change the air filter before the next OCI. Changing it in the middle of the OCI releases dirt into the oil, so you want to do it near the end of the change to reduce wear.
 
I've had 4 analyses done on my 2.0 Sentra with 96k. All of them noted high silicone.....Stock air filters. The two runs that I took to 15k were on Castrol Edge w/titanium and Pennzoil Ultra, both ended up with tbn of 1.5 with slight thickening, but wear metals were low.
 
What is the sump capacity? Was it low on oil at time of change? Maybe a top off would make the 15k more feasible.
 
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