So far, not particularly impressed with K@N Gold Filter...

[mebanditws6]

I'm about 750 miles into my oil change with a K@N filter and 10w40 GTX high mileage oil which is what I used before this change. The K@N didn't seem to really help the cold weather lifter bitching, but I'm not for sure on that yet as the temp has been up and down alot lately. Also, my oil pressure has taken a slight drop from when using the Bosch Premium. Here are average pressures with both filters using 10w40 GTX High Mileage:
Bosch Premium: just under 60psi warm cruising at 75mph, 30psi idle and never any lower, cold idle was at least 70psi sometimes slightly higher

K@N: around 50psi warm cruising at 75, 25psi warm idle, cold idle is 60-65psi

I tried a K@N in my old 4.3 Blazer with similar mileage and noticed consistent pressure drops about the same amount as the Jeep. Has anyone else experienced any of this with these filters?

Jason

 

[digitaldrifter91]

i never had an experiance with those filters though i watned to try it....i didnt like the filtration rates though, only 92% @ 18-20 microns...and its 10 bucks...humm i know i didnt answer ur question but i just watned to state my opiinion...ne ways...since u dont liek the filter, what are u goign to do now?

 

[Giles]

quote:

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Originally posted by mebanditws6:
I'm about 750 miles into my oil change with a K@N filter and 10w40 GTX high mileage oil which is what I used before this change. The K@N didn't seem to really help the cold weather lifter bitching, but I'm not for sure on that yet as the temp has been up and down alot lately. Also, my oil pressure has taken a slight drop from when using the Bosch Premium. Here are average pressures with both filters using 10w40 GTX High Mileage:
Bosch Premium: just under 60psi warm cruising at 75mph, 30psi idle and never any lower, cold idle was at least 70psi sometimes slightly higher

K@N: around 50psi warm cruising at 75, 25psi warm idle, cold idle is 60-65psi

I tried a K@N in my old 4.3 Blazer with similar mileage and noticed consistent pressure drops about the same amount as the Jeep. Has anyone else experienced any of this with these filters?

Jason

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It sounds like the K&N is actually working BETTER than the other filters. Lower oil pressure means more flow (less backpressure). I take it you are interpreting the lower numbers as less flow right?

An oil filter can't fix noisy lifter problems if they are caused by something other than reduced flow. I would recommend getting a good flush on the engine using Auto-Rx, and use a 0w40 Mobil 1 or Amsoil which will increase the flow significantly for your cold starts over a 10w40.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

quote:

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Originally posted by Giles:

quote:

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Originally posted by mebanditws6:
I'm about 750 miles into my oil change with a K@N filter and 10w40 GTX high mileage oil which is what I used before this change. The K@N didn't seem to really help the cold weather lifter bitching, but I'm not for sure on that yet as the temp has been up and down alot lately. Also, my oil pressure has taken a slight drop from when using the Bosch Premium. Here are average pressures with both filters using 10w40 GTX High Mileage:
Bosch Premium: just under 60psi warm cruising at 75mph, 30psi idle and never any lower, cold idle was at least 70psi sometimes slightly higher

K@N: around 50psi warm cruising at 75, 25psi warm idle, cold idle is 60-65psi

I tried a K@N in my old 4.3 Blazer with similar mileage and noticed consistent pressure drops about the same amount as the Jeep. Has anyone else experienced any of this with these filters?

Jason

---

It sounds like the K&N is actually working BETTER than the other filters. Lower oil pressure means more flow (less backpressure). I take it you are interpreting the lower numbers as less flow right?

An oil filter can't fix noisy lifter problems if they are caused by something other than reduced flow. I would recommend getting a good flush on the engine using Auto-Rx, and use a 0w40 Mobil 1 or Amsoil which will increase the flow significantly for your cold starts over a 10w40.

---

Actually that would not be correct IF the oil pressure gauge is past the filter which most are.

Given the engine bearings havent worn out and he is using the same oil, then in fact he is getting lower flow to the bearings. What the gauge is reading is pressure to the bearings and such, and if the oil is the same, and the flow rate of the filter was better, then he'd have an increase of oil backpressure at the bearings. Now, given this case, he is experiencing lower pressure.. Here's what I'd think.. The previous filter was in constant bypass mode or basicly has a better flow rate, thus getting great oil flow and the k and n is restricting flow and not opening by pass as much thus relying only on the oil flowing through the filter media which may not be as good.

Here is a basic diagram of how the flow works in a normal engine. Notice how the bearings is what restricts oil flow creating the backpressure that is read by the gauge.

The only way to increase oil flow past the bearing area is to decrease the viscosity of the oil which would increase the flow rate past the bearings.

 

[Giles]

Thanks Bob! A picture is worth 1000 words

 

[mebanditws6]

Yes the filter is before the sending unit to answer that question. I don't know the flow numbers for the K@N, but I do remember seeing that they were slightly lower than the Bosch Premium's. I wasn't sure how true this was seeing as though the K@N's have full synthetic filtering media. I know it'd be a long shot for a mere filter to stop the lifter clatter on cold start, but since the k@n's supposedly have a different/better antidrainback valve than the Premium, I thought the k@N might help somewhat. As of now I don't think it has.

Another thing thats happened with the K@N is that at cold start the pressure will build (almost instantly) to around 40 then fluctuate back forth between 60 and 40 then go to 60 and stay. This happens for a few seconds. I know I might sound like a nut, but I'm curious as to why it does this. I have flushed out the motor twice with K@W flush but never did drop the pan to clean the pickup screen

. Maybe thats whats causing it

. Oh well I guess I'll do that next oil change. This is why you NEED to change the oil on time. Otherwise you'll have big sludge problems like me

.

Jason

 

[TheLoneRanger]

quote:

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Another thing thats happened with the K@N is that at cold start the pressure will build (almost instantly) to around 40 then fluctuate back forth between 60 and 40 then go to 60 and stay. This happens for a few seconds. I know I might sound like a nut, but I'm curious as to why it does this. I have flushed out the motor twice with K@W flush but never did drop the pan to clean the pickup screen . Maybe thats whats causing it . Oh well I guess I'll do that next oil change. This is why you NEED to change the oil on time. Otherwise you'll have big sludge problems like me ."

Bandit, I experienced fluctuating oil pressure upon start-up, like you describe, and it turned out to be a clogged pick-up screen. With mine, the pressure buildup became worse and worse over a period of a couple months, until I finally figured out what the problem was. I'd keep a very close eye on it.

 

[Giles]

Depending on the type of flush, they can cause gunk to plug up your screen. You might want to use Auto-Rx which is supposed to safely disolve gunk in the motor over 500 miles. But if the screen is plugged, you might want to drop the pan and have a look around.

I haven't seen a filter that flows as much as the K&N specs say. They say 12-16gpm on their website. Also bouncing oil pressure could be caused if the bypass valve is opening and closing.

[ January 06, 2003, 01:09 AM: Message edited by: Giles ]

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

Resin impregnated!

Thank you Captain Obvious... ALL media is resin impregnated.

If not it would be flapping in the breeze like a paper napkin

 

[mebanditws6]

Yeah dropping the pan is one thing I was planning to do but haven't gotten around to it yet. Turns out last night the pressure started dropping like it did before the flush but not as bad

. I'm gonna drop the pan tomorrow and have a look. I also plan on using auto-rx after this. Hopefully these 2 things will solve this oil problem I've had once and for all.

Jason

 

[mebanditws6]

Oh I think it was Patman that said something in the past about the K@N's being a full synthetic media. I'm pretty sure I saw this more than once but I might be thinking of the M1 filter. Anyone out there verify this?

Jason

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by mebanditws6:
Oh I think it was Patman that said something in the past about the K@N's being a full synthetic media. I'm pretty sure I saw this more than once but I might be thinking of the M1 filter. Anyone out there verify this?

Jason

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A few years ago I used to believe that both the M1 and K&N were not only the same, but that both had a fully synthetic media. About a year ago I found out that not only are both filters different, but they don't use a fully synthetic media, but a blend instead. The Ultraguard uses a fully synthetic media though.

 

[metroplex]

Champion Labs, makers of the M1 and SuperTech filters, might use the same synthetic blend in both filters?

Regardless, the Purolator PureOne is more efficient than the M1.

 

[Eiron]

quote:

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Originally posted by mebanditws6:
... the K@N's have full synthetic filtering media.

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Jason,
Where did you get this info? I've tried several times to get K&N to tell me what their media was made of, even getting a reply directly from the R&D Manager, but they wouldn't tell me. Their website only says the media's "resin impregnated" (they wouldn't tell me what the resin does, either). For comparison, the tech at Mobil's Oil Filter Hotline (the Champion Labs phone #) told me the M1 filters use a cellulose base sheet with synthetic fibers.