Thinking rod knock, flex plate and/or TC, you say

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At least THIS forum WANTS to see me fix the cars. I appreciate that more than you know, it is so different than arguing with know-it-alls "Oh you will never get this Volvo fixed, troll" like they know everything.

I have the two car situation going on. Both are sitting, for now. Going to change that soon!
 
Was the Blazer making this noise from the get go - since right after the engine swap? I don't see where it was mentioned.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Was the Blazer making this noise from the get go - since right after the engine swap? I don't see where it was mentioned.


Yes it was, and though we did not hear the engine run, the noise did in fact change a little bit. Since the C-clamp is on the driver side exhaust header, and it was put together in such a hurry that either scenario (rod knock OR bolt hitting bellhousing noise) is entirely possible, since the mechanic straight out told me "I had to replace all the transmission and TC bolts. They werent the right ones. I changed them all." he told me that, and they were disconnected/put in at least twice.

I am tempted to get a rubber glove and pull spark plug wires to see if I can isolate the noise, and so far, I have heard no noise change from the engine even using different oils, which to me sounds favorable to not the engine.

But, to answer your question: Yes, we put it in, turned the key, and it did this. Then finished putting it in and securing the C-clamp and it has knocked ever since.

here is a video of it doing it a few hours after the engine was put in. At night. Me stewing that it isnt yet 100%.

Sounds like something wore a little bit from then to here. Could be bolt head..

July 29th. From turn-key to . You can hear the hollow-ness, and how it sounded at first. (Taken with iPhone 4 S, 4AM)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGow0h7vrrQ
 
I have seen very experienced mechanics completely confounded by flex plate noise.

It can be quite vexing to figure it out. Diagnosis is always the key to successful repairs, and it rarely happens on the Internet!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

Got the Volvo for free.





How? I need a free Volvo. We all need a free Volvo.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Maybe I missed it...what's the C-clamp for?


Scrap yard butchered driver side exhaust manifold. They cut it
 
Originally Posted By: Nayov
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

Got the Volvo for free.





How? I need a free Volvo. We all need a free Volvo.


Yes.
 
Originally Posted By: Nayov
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

Got the Volvo for free.





How? I need a free Volvo. We all need a free Volvo.
I'd rather have a free R34 Skyline.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Maybe I missed it...what's the C-clamp for?


Scrap yard butchered driver side exhaust manifold. They cut it
Could some of the noise you're hearing be coming from an exhaust leak?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Maybe I missed it...what's the C-clamp for?


Scrap yard butchered driver side exhaust manifold. They cut it


Did you see the vehicle it was pulled out of. generally good bodywork indicates scraped for powertrain and vice versa

Did your mechanic test or inspect the engine prior to the install (at least turn it over by hand, pull the oil pan)
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: Nayov
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs

Got the Volvo for free.





How? I need a free Volvo. We all need a free Volvo.
I'd rather have a free R34 Skyline.


Right hand Drive?
eek.gif
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr

Did you see the vehicle it was pulled out of. generally good bodywork indicates scraped for powertrain and vice versa


I did. It was sitting on cinder blocks because someone bought axle parts. Apparently they had it for a month or so and "all the parts were going fast." Had push-button 4WD; Dash had been removed, was unclear if it was digital or normal. Was a 1994. I said "I want it." They sold me the engine for $300 and here it is coming out of the donor truck, at the yard. Look at that big forklift go. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=534...e=3&theater

Quote:

Did your mechanic test or inspect the engine prior to the install (at least turn it over by hand, pull the oil pan)


I will answer you honestly, and as best i can remember: Turned over by hand, said "Wow this engine has a lot of compression." DID inspect oil pans; I cleaned out the one before it got put on. Apparently, I went from a remote oil filter to having the remote oil filter lines put on an engine that did NOT have a Remote Oil Filter originally.. Or something strange.

Would have been nice to hear it run first.

Here is the engine on the road, in traffic. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536...e=3&theater

Before that trip. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536...e=3&theater Listen to the noise from :33 on. Sounds like something is rubbing.

I almost think a 4x2 pan went on a 4x4 engine, but that cant be since it fits perfect in the truck I have... ??

There are some mysteries about what is happening in the setup that is in there. But something is really echoing, and the oil pan and flex plate and torque converter.. are within about a foot of each other............
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Maybe I missed it...what's the C-clamp for?


Scrap yard butchered driver side exhaust manifold. They cut it
Could some of the noise you're hearing be coming from an exhaust leak?


Could be, I keep wondering if it is a catalytic converter... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536...e=3&theater

Here I am, driving slow(er) and narrating notes about the oil, etc. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=536...e=3&theater (The first driving video had wind noise.)

Sounds like a saw-zall. Milwaukee Saw-Zall.
 
Next time, haul the auto trans into manual low gear with your foot off the gas so we can hear it decellerate.

32.gif
I noticed the indicator in neutral. Had a work s10 back in the day that did that. Better yet, you could start it in drive as the interlock was mechanical. I used to do a "dukes of hazzard" thing where I turned the key then when it caught I'd mash the pedal, without waiting for it to go into gear.

I had a saturn with rod knock that sounded a little different. Hard saying, not knowing, but the mic auto-level makes it hard to guess how loud.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Maybe I missed it...what's the C-clamp for?


Scrap yard butchered driver side exhaust manifold. They cut it


You should have them pull a another manifold for you at N/C
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Next time, haul the auto trans into manual low gear with your foot off the gas so we can hear it decellerate.

32.gif
I noticed the indicator in neutral. Had a work s10 back in the day that did that. Better yet, you could start it in drive as the interlock was mechanical. I used to do a "dukes of hazzard" thing where I turned the key then when it caught I'd mash the pedal, without waiting for it to go into gear.

I had a saturn with rod knock that sounded a little different. Hard saying, not knowing, but the mic auto-level makes it hard to guess how loud.


You mean do the 3-2-1 move lever with foot off gas to see what it does or does not do? How fast should I be going when I begin to "gear brake?"

Starting to suspect trans in terms of flex plate/tc more than engine because even as you and others have said.. Rod Knock sounds slightly different, less hollow and echo-ey. Plus, I sometimes hear/feel noises from under my feet at stop or when first turned on.

Tell me how fast to decelerate from and I will try to make it happen.

I may have to drive the car as-is with that noise, to see what is up with the Volvo and this shop that did not follow through on tow yesterday. I will know today if Bertrands http://www.yelp.com/biz/bertrand-auto-langhorne towed it to them.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Next time, haul the auto trans into manual low gear with your foot off the gas so we can hear it decellerate.

32.gif
I noticed the indicator in neutral. Had a work s10 back in the day that did that. Better yet, you could start it in drive as the interlock was mechanical. I used to do a "dukes of hazzard" thing where I turned the key then when it caught I'd mash the pedal, without waiting for it to go into gear.

I had a saturn with rod knock that sounded a little different. Hard saying, not knowing, but the mic auto-level makes it hard to guess how loud.


You mean do the 3-2-1 move lever with foot off gas to see what it does or does not do? How fast should I be going when I begin to "gear brake?"

Starting to suspect trans in terms of flex plate/tc more than engine because even as you and others have said.. Rod Knock sounds slightly different, less hollow and echo-ey. Plus, I sometimes hear/feel noises from under my feet at stop or when first turned on.

Tell me how fast to decelerate from and I will try to make it happen.

I may have to drive the car as-is with that noise, to see what is up with the Volvo and this shop that did not follow through on tow yesterday. I will know today if Bertrands http://www.yelp.com/biz/bertrand-auto-langhorne towed it to them.


May have to operate Blazer as-is. We will see...
 
I assume it is registered in NJ and is not nitocably dripping anything while sitting still idling.

Beyond that it must appear to have a catalytic converter properly installed. It must not have excessive exhaust leaks preventing the inspector getting a proper sample of exhaust from the tailpipe. It must not be visibly smoking. It must not appear to be unsafe to drive up to the machine and test. It must pass a tailpipe test (hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide only) at idle and at 2500 RPM with no load. Your gas cap must pass a test.

The noise might get your rejected depending on who is doing the inspection. If you pay for a private shop to do it you'll probably get someone who knows that isn't anything dangerous. If you go to Parson's it's probably a 50/50 shot. As far as the tailpipe test goes... the standards aren't that tough. If the Blazer will fail the tailpipe test you probably have some pretty foul smelling exhaust and already know to expect it.
 
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