Ford EFI Gurus, 2002 Ranger driving me nuts

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My 2002 Ranger XLT Supercab 3.0L manual developed what I call an intermittent idle "hang". I've owned the truck since new, put 135k miles on it, and have done nearly all the maintenance on it myself, using Motorcraft, Ford, or OEM quality parts. I'll see if I can describe what it does a little better.

When I mash the clutch in to shift gears, the engine will hang at the RPM it was at when I let the clutch out (or even flare up 2-300 RPM), and then slowly return to around 1100RPM. Sometimes, it can take up to 10 seconds to start coming down. Here's the real screwy part. If I leave the A/C off, it works perfectly, every time. If the A/C is on, then about 80% of the time, it will hang to some extent.

Now, keep in mind, I've owned this truck since it was new off the lot. I know about the slightly increased idle speed till it comes to a stop, and the rev matching strategy for shifting. Up until about 8 months ago, it worked perfectly. Then one day, it decided to try and kill me on the way to school. Driving a stick, you get used to having engine braking while driving. One day, it suddenly wasn't there.

Rather than tell a long, drawn out story, I'll start with what I've replaced and checked recently, and in the order it was done.

Replaced TPS Sensor
Replaced IAC
Cleaned MAF
Replaced various sections of rubber vacuum line
Replaced PCV Valve, connector hose and valve cover grommet (rotting rubber)
Changed Plugs (they had 60K miles on them)
Replaced Both Upstream O2 sensors (130K miles, it was time)
Cleaned Throttle Body (with a teflon safe cleaner)
Gone hunting for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner (didn't find any)

I've also plugged the truck into my laptop, and monitored live engine data to see if I'm missing something. Fuel trims look good. STFT for both banks sits around 0% to -1%, LTFT is at -2% to -3%. TPS Voltage is .98V closed throttle. PCM picks up on CT, PT and WOT as expected. IAC Duty Cycle goes from about 20% at idle with no accessories on to 40% at idle with the A/C on, to 100% at WOT. ECT and IAT are within 10 degress of each other at cold start. VSS sensor seems to agree with the speedometer. The ONLY things I've found that look a little out of whack are the manifold vacuum, and the MAF voltage. Manifold vacuum drops drastically from around 19.0" at idle to 15.0" when the A/C compressor is kicked on. The MAF voltage tends to fluctuate by about +/- .04V, back and forth at various loads.

I'm pretty much at a loss. The only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak at the plenum (its plastic) where it bolts to the lower manifold, or the lower manifold where it bolts to the heads. And it only wants to show up under load, and when decelerating. The only reason I'm leaning towards that, is about 18 months ago, the coil pack cracked, and I had a pretty good backfire before I found it.

Thoughts, opinions, or suggestions?
 
Check with BDCardinal, a member here. He is a parts man for Ford. He is very knowledgeable on Fords.
 
Had an '82 Ranger 4-spd, same problem. Ended up being a sticking canister purge solenoid; was sucking fumes from the charcoal canister, adding HCs to the engine, keeping the RPMs high.
 
Originally Posted By: airbatica
Here's the real screwy part. If I leave the A/C off, it works perfectly, every time. If the A/C is on, then about 80% of the time, it will hang to some extent.


You say screwy, I say interesting. Would you say your A/C works very well?
 
Recheck the idle air control valve. Your truck's symptoms describe what happened to mine when I used to have my 5 speed Ranger. Replaced the IAC with an aftermarket unit from Advance Auto and it went bad within a few months.
 
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It works well enough to keep the truck ice cold on a 100F+ day here in Texas. All the environmental controls work as they should as well.
 
I'd start with the IAC. new oem part.

USUALLY with AC on the idle falls FASTER due to the load on the engine with the clutch in.

I doubt its emissions as they were only Low emissions vehicles in 2002 not any of that PZEV dance through hoops to lower emissions.
 
You have checked/replaced everything I would have.

I would recheck the IAC and MAF in particular. If you used an aftermarket IAC, it may behave somewhat different from the OE one. I got a BWD boxed new one when my factory one kept causing low idle. It was made in the US, but definitely not OEM. It worked okay, but did seem to "hang" when letting off the gas (automatic trans). I ended up cleaning the OEM one really well until I couldn't see a single speck of dirt in the valve body, then put it back on with no problems since. I used throttle body cleaner to give it some lubricant.

With the MAF, I would take a very close look at the little wires and make sure they are absolutely spotlessly clean. Rock Auto has Motorcraft remanufactured MAF sensors for your truck on closeout for $65 with no core charge. 30 day warranty.

Also, has the truck's computer ever been reflashed with updates? There were various updates when my truck got a reflash about a year ago.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
I'd start with the IAC. new oem part.

USUALLY with AC on the idle falls FASTER due to the load on the engine with the clutch in.

I doubt its emissions as they were only Low emissions vehicles in 2002 not any of that PZEV dance through hoops to lower emissions.


The IAC is a new Motorcraft. It's identical to the original from the factory, right down to the part number cast into the housing. For grins, I put the factory IAC back on. It makes no difference.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
You have checked/replaced everything I would have.

With the MAF, I would take a very close look at the little wires and make sure they are absolutely spotlessly clean. Rock Auto has Motorcraft remanufactured MAF sensors for your truck on closeout for $65 with no core charge. 30 day warranty.

Also, has the truck's computer ever been reflashed with updates? There were various updates when my truck got a reflash about a year ago.


I used a Motorcraft IAC, and reset the keep alive memory to relearn. I'll take a look at the MAF again. And for the price, I'll probably pick up one of them off Rock Auto just to have one if I need it. To my knowledge, the PCM has never been flashed. It's always run and driven well since new, never saw the need to enquire about updates. It is something I'll look in to though. Maybe a table has gotten corrupted.
 
Originally Posted By: kyxtremetuber
+1 on the purge valve


I'm leaning towards that now after reading how the evaporative emissions system works. It's also fits with what I'm seeing with the Long Term Fuel Trim (even though its in limits). I'll play around with my scanner and laptop and see if there are any enhanced PIDs I can monitor.
 
I know that some of the Mustang guys with the older 4.6 Mustangs, 96-04 would put a reducer in the hose that feeds the IAC to help induce RPM drop when shifting a manual. I never paid much attention to it because my 98 worked fine, and it has been so long since I drove my 95 I forget what it was like.

The purge valve could be it. On some Rangers they offer a kit with the purge valve and the flow sensor with new hoses. If you go to a dealer see if they have a 9C987 listed for your VIN. It has the 9C915 purge solenoid and 14A606 flow sensor with the new correct hoses. Kinda pricey, but I have all the shops trained to ask for that when they order sensors.
 
Its old school pedal. no DBW

(I had a 2002 4.0L 4x4 XLT)
 
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My guess is it is caused by the A/C clutch engaging and disengaging. With the A/C clutch engaged there is more drag on the motor, but when your foot returns to the accelerator after changing gears there is a delay before the A/C clutch gets a signal from the WOT relay to disengage in order to allow for better acceleration and fuel economy.
Make sure the A/C clutch/hub or pulley is not binding, and the WOT (wide open throttle) relay is operating as designed.
 
Is the airflow from the canister purge really that big that it can cause idle changes? My GM stuff make the hose super tiny, 1/4 to 1/8" diameter.

Maybe you can restrict your hose just as a diagnostic aid? Jeez, you could plug it, but get a CEL, and could plausibly over saturate the charcoal left alone too long. If it's rubber (not vinyl) you could put a vise grips on it like a hemostat and drive around.
lol.gif
 
Monitor the tp voltage when the event is taking place, I have seen several with poor connections at the tp sensor causing the same issue. Also check the diode for the a/c compressor for proper operation. It is there to keep from spiking the pcm when it cycles.
 
My buddy has a 2000 2.5 Ranger that does the same thing in hot weather, with his it is corrosion in the TPS sensor harness. Every year or two I clean the terminals a bit and put a tiny amount of dielectric grease on it, and it solves the problem for a year or two.
 
Simple stuff first.

The idle trims you posted- they are at idle? Have you screwed with the base idle?

If your idle trims are Ok at idle, you can rule out vac leaks (lean) or MAF (rich at idle).

My advice- verify base idle with IAC disconnected. (engine at op temp etc) After that, disconnect battery/clear PCM memory and reset idle strategy.
 
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